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Discussion Starter #1
I am thinking that I am going to ceramic coat the vehicle within a day or two of receiving it. I have about two more weeks of waiting time until it arrives. So I ordered this brand based on ratings but am still a little weary about using it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7UF4ZD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have heard people use it on the glass as well as paint. I certainly will not be using on the Glass because if it does deteriorate and I cannot buff it out of the glass like I can with the clear coat.

Any suggestions? I already have a Meguiar's Clay Bar kit and have studied up on the process but none the less this is a little nerve racking thinking about what could go wrong.

I would love to know if anybody has used the same ceramic kit that I bought. The ratings seem very good but if you think it's junk please let me know.

Thanks
Rob
 

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Crv with a $10k paint job umm I don't think that was a option at the dealership. Heck my has a run drip on the lower hood. So I don't think it's that kind of a price paint job. I would just stick to waxes and hand car washes.
 

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2020 CR-V Touring HyBrid All wheel drive, black/black.
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Return it for a refund, it's a complete waste of your money, and buy a Clay Bar.
 

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I'm naturally skeptical of a product applied by smearing it on your car that claims to be able to last for years. And their claim that it can protect against rock chips is completely bogus.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well you guys certainly influenced my decision. I also watch a John Cadogan video on the subject and he declared that all of them, even the $2000 dealer Jobs to be snake oil. That plus your guys comments have sealed the deal on me not using it.

As stated I already have a Clay Bar so I will Clay the Car and Wax it. BTW I do have a 10 year old Van that we rarely use, I will try out the Ceramic coating on that and let you guys know how it worked.


Rob
 

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I put opticoat on my last car after flaying it, polishing, polishing, and more paint correction polishing. It made a huge difference when it was washed or when it rained. The water just beads up and I would just drive fast and it would be dry. Snow on the other hand still sucked. Had someone scratched their red car on my silver paint and buffed most of it out.
 

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My 2014 CPO CRV, I purchased last year had already the Zurich Shield on it. The previous owner obviously had in done when purchased new I would assume. I believe this is one of the coatings new car dealers push. I can say it really does bead water and adds a wet look when clean. How long is it going to last, time will tell. Would I pay the $900.00 to have it done, no.
 

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Well you guys certainly influenced my decision. I also watch a John Cadogan video on the subject and he declared that all of them, even the $2000 dealer Jobs to be snake oil. That plus your guys comments have sealed the deal on me not using it.

As stated I already have a Clay Bar so I will Clay the Car and Wax it. BTW I do have a 10 year old Van that we rarely use, I will try out the Ceramic coating on that and let you guys know how it worked.

Rob
I owned a 2001 Nissan Xterra for eleven years. It was washed and kept clean but never had any sort of wax or sealer or whatever on the paint. When I sold it the paint still looked like new. The clear coat finishes used on modern cars is pretty amazing in most cases. There are many companies that make lots of money selling you "wonder" treatments. I saw the dealer demo when I picked up my new car but passed. Sure, they come up wit slick demos to make this stuff look so wonderful but I haven't waxed a car in years and haven't had a problem with any of them with just doing normal washes and keeping crud off of them.
Its your money......do what makes you feel good.
 

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Check out autogeek forums, coatings are great and there's really no way to screw them up. I've used Opti Coat and CQuartz UK coatings on my CR-V. I've been using coatings for years and have installed on many customers cars.

A coating can in no way damage your paint. There are steps you should take before coating to ensure a good bond, such as mechanically and chemically decontaminating the paint (iron remover and clay bar or mitt), polishing to remove any existing swirls and scratches and to remove any marring from claying, and finally removing all polishing oils using either a pre coating cleanser or isopropyl alcohol.

Some paint coatings can be used on glass, and can be removed from glass and paint in the same manner, using some form of abrasive polish.

There are glass specific coatings though, if those are too pricy then stick with rain-x, it works great.

Properly preparing for and installing a coating can protect your paint for up to 2 years.

If a coating is too much of a commitment then look into synthetic sealants. They are more durable and longer lasting than wax.
 

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Well you guys certainly influenced my decision. I also watch a John Cadogan video on the subject and he declared that all of them, even the $2000 dealer Jobs to be snake oil. That plus your guys comments have sealed the deal on me not using it.

As stated I already have a Clay Bar so I will Clay the Car and Wax it. BTW I do have a 10 year old Van that we rarely use, I will try out the Ceramic coating on that and let you guys know how it worked.

Rob
I owned a 2001 Nissan Xterra for eleven years. It was washed and kept clean but never had any sort of wax or sealer or whatever on the paint. When I sold it the paint still looked like new. The clear coat finishes used on modern cars is pretty amazing in most cases. There are many companies that make lots of money selling you "wonder" treatments. I saw the dealer demo when I picked up my new car but passed. Sure, they come up wit slick demos to make this stuff look so wonderful but I haven't waxed a car in years and haven't had a problem with any of them with just doing normal washes and keeping crud off of them.
Its your money......do what makes you feel good.
Think of waxes/sealants/coatings as a sacrificial barrier between the outside world and your clear coat. Any dirt, bird droppings, light scratches, and other contaminates get embedded in this layer and not your clear coat. And for those of us that polish, you're protecting your hard work and adding gloss/depth.

Plus the added uv protection is very beneficial for extremely thin clear coat.
 

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Crv with a $10k paint job umm I don't think that was a option at the dealership. Heck my has a run drip on the lower hood. So I don't think it's that kind of a price paint job. I would just stick to waxes and hand car washes.
Please damage your paint. Then go try to get it repainted with the same level of care and paint quality and tell us how much it costs.

My point is, getting the paint back to factory conditions if you damage it with some $69 crap will cost you dearly.

Still don’t believe me? Try it and let us know how it goes. But you know what they say, you get what you pay for.
 

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Crv with a $10k paint job umm I don't think that was a option at the dealership. Heck my has a run drip on the lower hood. So I don't think it's that kind of a price paint job. I would just stick to waxes and hand car washes.
Please damage your paint. Then go try to get it repainted with the same level of care and paint quality and tell us how much it costs.

My point is, getting the paint back to factory conditions if you damage it with some $69 crap will cost you dearly.

Still don’t believe me? Try it and let us know how it goes. But you know what they say, you get what you pay for.
Even an inept application of a coating will not damage the paint. The application is similar to that of a wax, just a bit more thorough, and they can be easily removed with as little abrasion as a cleaner wax.

Perhaps you are thinking of something else? Even plastidip can be safely removed.
 

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No wax, sealant, or coating is going to damage the paint if you apply it correctly. More damage and paint swirls happen when people take their car through a drive-thru car wash. There really are no miracle waxes or coatings out there that I've experienced. It all comes down to keeping your car clean and using your favorite wax at least 2-3 times a year.
 

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Although my car has a sealant on it I still laid down its wintertime coat of Collinite 476s wax. It will get another wax job in April. Yes, this wax does last 6 months minimum.
 

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Please damage your paint. Then go try to get it repainted with the same level of care and paint quality and tell us how much it costs.

My point is, getting the paint back to factory conditions if you damage it with some $69 crap will cost you dearly.

Still don’t believe me? Try it and let us know how it goes. But you know what they say, you get what you pay for.
Umm, have you ever applied sealant? Please do not spread false information.

That being said, I have used plenty of sealants and just put Car
Pro products on my 18 crv. CQuartz and reload. Simple to use, just a few hours of work on a Saturday. Ceramic and well worth it. Water sheets off and super easy to wash car. BTW, ceramic is actually a coat of glass as thick as your clear coat layer. Try car pro or auto geek forum for the truth on protection for your vehicle. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I tried it out today on My old Toyota Van (all seats removed except the front). I use it for carrying large items.

I washed the Van thoroughly and then used Carnauba wax on the whole vehicle except the Bonnet.
The instructions that come with this ceramic coating are absolute rubbish but I had researched the proper way to apply it.

After Clay Barring and coating the Bonnet, the end result is a mixed bag.

First of all its pretty easy to do. You would have to be fairly inept to get this wrong. It goes on very easy and you would have to use an insane amount to run into uneven surface problems. The hardest part by far was washing and the Claying.

After applying two coats it looked OK, but to my eyes the Waxed parts of the Vehicle looked better in terms of shine and depth of color.

It certainly not as thick as the poster "TPack17" said in his post above. This thing wipes on like a coating of WD40! Clear coat on most cars is about .05mm thick, which is much thicker than the actual paint, it is about the same thickness as the plastic on a Zip lock bag.

So time will tell, I have to let this thing set for 24-48 hours before getting it wet.

At this point I certainly would not be using it on my CR-V as the luster is not super impressive and it's a one shot deal. I can no longer Wax the vehicle which IMO gives a better shine.


Rob
 

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Well I tried it out today on My old Toyota Van (all seats removed except the front). I use it for carrying large items.

I washed the Van thoroughly and then used Carnauba wax on the whole vehicle except the Bonnet.
The instructions that come with this ceramic coating are absolute rubbish but I had researched the proper way to apply it.

After Clay Barring and coating the Bonnet, the end result is a mixed bag.

First of all its pretty easy to do. You would have to be fairly inept to get this wrong. It goes on very easy and you would have to use an insane amount to run into uneven surface problems. The hardest part by far was washing and the Claying.

After applying two coats it looked OK, but to my eyes the Waxed parts of the Vehicle looked better in terms of shine and depth of color.

It certainly not as thick as the poster "TPack17" said in his post above. This thing wipes on like a coating of WD40! Clear coat on most cars is about .05mm thick, which is much thicker than the actual paint, it is about the same thickness as the plastic on a Zip lock bag.

So time will tell, I have to let this thing set for 24-48 hours before getting it wet.

At this point I certainly would not be using it on my CR-V as the luster is not super impressive and it's a one shot deal. I can no longer Wax the vehicle which IMO gives a better shine.


Rob
Coatings are much more focused on protection over looks, but most will give a "wet candy" appearance. Once it cures the look should improve. You can definitely wax over the coating, though it may not last as long as it would without. My CR-V is white and always appears wet and shinier than white should because of ceramic coating. Give it time to cure, hopefully that's all it needs.

Did you use isopropyl alcohol before laying down the coating? Or some type of coating prep polish? The oils from clay lube or whatever soap you used as lube can affect bonding. The success of a coating lies in the prep.
 

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Clear coat isn't quite as thick as a zip loc, more like two layers of cigarette pack cellophane, or a post it note.

Not saying one layer of coating will reach that thickness, but clear is thin.
 

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I have used Klasse Paint sealant on my 17 CR-V and a friend's 17 CR-V, a 1995 Porsche 968 that I had to first restore badly faded Guard red paint without a clear coat from years of neglect, and a 2014 Porsche Boxster. While it is not" ceramic" it is easier to apply than wax and lasts far longer, a year to 2 years depending on if your car is garaged or not. I use wax on top of the sealant to bring out the shine. On dark colored cars the sealant adds depth to color, but sealant isn't really made to "shine" the way wax does. I have put Klasse sealant on every exterior surface of the vehicles including black rubber trim, practice painted bumpers, plastic chrome, chrome, headlight and tail light lenses, and even glass with no issues. Bugs, bird droppings, etc are easily removed with a damp used dryer sheet without applying any elbow grease. I purchased the Klasse sealant on autogeek.net, its about $25 a bottle and I get 7-10 applications from a 27 oz bottle. I highly recommend clay barring the car first though because by the time you get it, even though it's new, the paint is already contaminated with pollutants that will not just wash off.
 
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