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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2007 crv 2WD. I got the battery light like a week or 2 so I took the battery to get it test out but it come out good. So I changed the alternator, car was running fine after that but until today in the morning I got the light again but the light doesn’t turn on right away, takes a bit to come up the dash. Also yesterday I went to tj and had the car at idle for 2 or 3 hours because of the line was long to cross back. I checked voltage today as well I get 12.6 at off, 13.3 at idle now And when I have everything on for example:ac, headlights running, idle, windshield wiper,... it reads 12.5

What should I do now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I bought it at autozone and right now I took the car to the store not far from my home and the car wouldn’t turn on but luckily I had a portable jumper with me. I’ve also noticed the battery is from 09/2015
 

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My battery started dying on me, and I bought one from the local Honda dealer. 3 year full warranty, with an additional 5 (?) pro-rated, valid at any Honda dealer with the receipt. It cost maybe $20 more than the alleged "better" quality batteries around me, but it's worth it. I swapped it in their parking lot in three minutes. 10mm deep well socket and a ratchet. ??

The alternator is tricky, isn't it? (The bottom two bolts took some clever use of my low-profile sockets to get loose.) I used a rebuilt Denso in mine. No issues!
 

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2005 and 2006 EX AWD
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may be a bad ELD electronic load detector usually if you turn all the big loads on including rear defrost and the alternator turns on its the ELD failing,its in the under hood fuse box,check youtube found this from this forum also fuse in under dash for the alternator fuse #3 10A its in the first PDF I guess when that fuse blows it will do what you are seeing with voltage starting off ok then dropping after driving when it blows the PCM doesn't get the signal from the ELD to command the alternator what to do so the ELD is a sensor for the PCM to control the alternator ,I just learned something https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/does-a-2007-crv-have-an-eld-electronic-load-detector.119257/
 

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FYI, my battery tested "good" for several months, although it was still cranking over slowly compared to our other '09. Now that I have the new battery, it cranks like a champ. It was some off-brand no-name battery the previous owner installed. Now I have a genuine Honda with their warranty on it. I'd check that before throwing other obscure parts at the problem. Four years old on the dinky batteries in these CR-Vs might be pushing it (since yours was dated 2015).

The alternator hasn't cured the whining noise from the engine, but at least I know it's getting a full charge to the battery now. Plus, given the roads I travel on in the summer (where I'll go 100+ miles between a usable cell tower), I didn't want it crapping out on me i the middle of nowhere. I believe they say that it's a good idea to replace the battery after the alternator has been replaced (but usually, after an alternator is known to have failed).
 

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that's great you got it figured out,I know a bad battery can test good with these newer testers that don't put a load on it I have seen it a few times,but the original post he has a charging system problem hondas charging system has a load detector that tells the PCM how much output the alternator needs to do so his alternator is not keeping up with the load and running his battery down. thats what it looks like with the voltages he is seeing ,or he has a defective alternator but doing the same thing as the first one probably not, battery light coming on is a charging problem, but in this case its probably a fuse #3 10A that will fix the whole problem but he hasn't checked back here, it shows he hasn't been back since he posted
 
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