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I have a problem with really loud clunking when I go over speed bumps or even potholes!
I have replaced front conrtol arms and bushings (Top) and the axle on the passanger side.
It was quite and smooth for about 2 weeks but now it's back.
Mechanic said motor mounts are bad as well but would that make your ride wobble at 60mph too?
Thinking I should do it all (mounts, sway bar, and of course alligment) but I need the clucking problem gone....kids even make that (uh-uh-uh-uhuh) sounds, like when you talk thru a fan, while we're driving. :confused:
Any one have this problem before?
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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8,722 Posts
How long since you replaced the sway bar end links?

How long since you replaced the sway bar bushings?


It would be good to have alignment checked after your work, but this has nothing to do with the clunking.

Motor mounts would usually clunk when you move from neutral to reverse or drive.

60MPH wobble is usually tires or balance...move the fronts to the backs and see if the symptom changes. 'Wobble' at lower speeds could be U joints on the driveshaft (if you have AWD).
 

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May not be the same., but I had clunking problems going over washboard type roads and speed bumps with my 2003. Turned out, after just about every part in the front end was replaced, to be a motor mount problem. Small shim solved it. Honda came out with a redesigned mount that took three (3) years to reach me.
 

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First, let me welcome you to the forum. As for your noise when hitting bumps/pot holes, you will need to check the front struts, their what controls the roughness when hitting bumps. Keep in mind the only adjustment for alignment is the TOE-IN ONLY. Don't get fooled into an EXPENSIVE ALIGNMENT, there's nothing to adjust except tie-rods ends. Good luck JMHO.
David g.
 

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A worn drive shaft U-Joint will cause a bad wobble also. I bought my first CRV (daughters car) a couple years ago not really running and changed the head on it. While test driving it after the repairs it started to wobble at about 40 mph and got bad at 60 mph. it would shake your filling loose. It then smoothed out again the faster it went. I got it home, crawled underneath it and grabbed the drive shaft and twisted it back and forth and I could see movement. The complete shaft can run $400-$500 but you can get just the joints online for about $60 and change them yourself if that's your issue.
 
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