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I am getting code P2646. I can handle that, I think. The weird thing is that my VSA light is coming on at the same time. I haven't seen anyone on the interweb mention that their VSA system gave them problems at the same time. The lights came (and come) on at the EXACT same time, even after clearing them several times. (Wanted to be sure)

how would p2646 be related to the VSA system?

I'm leaving for colorado on friday afternoon, so I really need to figure out what to do about it. I'm ordering the Oil Pressure Switch asap, but if that's not gonna solve my vsa problems then i might need to look at a shop or dealership (dealership might be a pita because of location and time)
 

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Danno,

Your VSA light might well be related to your CEL (check engine light) being on. If that is the case it should be mentioned in your owners manual. The reason for this type of "dual" light is because if one safety system is defective then a secondary system that relies on input data from the first defective system could cause the second system to activate when it should not causing a dangerous situation. Hope this helps and check you owners manual. Lots of luck, Russ.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I can't find anything that says they should be related, but it seems that they are. There must be a default mode that kicks VSA off with certain Trouble Codes.

At any rate, I replaced the Oil Pressure Switch. It was just under $60 from autozone. The procedure was fairly easy when you know where to look and can get at it. There is another part that comes up with Oil Pressure Switch when autozone searches. It is about 8 bucks. This isn't the proper switch for this procedure.

tools needed: 10mm socket, 22mm Socket,(Needle nose pliers might be helpful)

location: The Oil Pressure Switch and VTEC Solenoid are located directly above the oil filter and are accessible from the engine bay.

1. Use the 10mm socket to remove a bracket holding a hose. Yo umay be able to do this job with that hose in the way, but 30 seconds will make your job way easier.

2. Use the pliers (or your fingers) to unplug the wires from the Switch. There are two plugs back in that vicinity, It will be the one on your right (closer to driver's side)

3. Use the 22mm socket to remove the switch. There is an o-ring that should probably be replaced, do not forget to use that when installing the new switch.

4. Reverse procedure with the new switch.

(easy, wasn't it?)

NOW, my engine was not fixed by this procedure, so I decided that I should clean out the filter that I kept reading about. My advice is to try the following procedure FIRST if you ever get the p2646 code. You might save yourself 60 bucks.

Tools/supplies needed: 10mm Socket, carb cleaner OR new screen

Now, this part was slightly more difficult to find a procedure on, but is super easy when you know what you are doing. That's why I'm posting it here.

1. There are 3 screws on the "block" that the solenoid and the oil pressure switch are on. They are located on the back side of it (aimed towards the engine) They all may be removed with a 10mm socket.

2. YOU MAY leave the entire unit plugged in while you do this, or you may remove the plugs and the wire holders that are attached to this unit (PITA). At this point you need to either pull the screen off of the engine block, or off of this part you have dangling in the back.

3. Either replace this screen (which seems to serve as a gasket, as well) or you may clean the screen out. I found a grainy layer of oil on mine, this seemed to be necessary. I guess they put a screen there on purpose, so it was doing its job.

4. Reverse procedure with new/cleaned screen.

5. If you haven't done it recently, now would be an appropriate time to change your oil and filter.

In a clean garage, with your tools handy, this entire procedure could be done in 30 minutes. It took me an hour, but I had to keep coming back to the FSM and the Internet to figure out what the heck to do.

If your codes come back after these repairs (in spite of erasing them) then double check the connectors. I was getting a code and decided to check my connectors, they looked ok, but after I unplugged stuff and replugged it in, making sure to take extra care that they were firmly seated, the codes haven't returned. Let's hope this post isn't premature and that the problem is solved.
 

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It might also be that an oil change is needed

Danno, thanks for your post as yours was the only one on the web that I came across that addressed this issue. I would like to mention that I had a slightly different experience and it turned out an oil change is what ultimately fixed the problem with the P 2646 code. I followed the instructions in your post however I was unable to remove the screen that you talked about in your post. I decided to go ahead and replace the Oil Pressure Switch in hopes it might resolve the problem. After I changed the switch and reset the code, the code came back on the same day. At this point I figured I would just take my CR-V in to a shop and have them replace the screen since I could not. Since it was almost time for my oil change I asked them to change the oil as well. While the service tech was looking up the code he mentioned that it pointed to problems with the oil pressure switch, the screen behind it and dirty oil.
Once they changed the oil the light went away, I have been driving it for five days since the oil change and the light has not returned. I am thinking that it might be possible that the screen is still in fact dirty and it might end up causing the same problem again so I am taking it back to go ahead and get the screen replaced anyway. I just thought I would post this for anyone else that might be having the problem so they know that there might actually be a third problem causing the code. So if the oil pressure switch and screen have been replaced, make sure to get that oil change that you mention.
 

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At any rate, I replaced the Oil Pressure Switch. It was just under $60 from autozone. The procedure was fairly easy when you know where to look and can get at it. There is another part that comes up with Oil Pressure Switch when autozone searches. It is about 8 bucks. This isn't the proper switch for this procedure...
Danno, you my man are my hero.

2006 CR-V 2WD experienced similar symptoms. I stumbled across a thread explaining the symptoms that linked here. Your steps were clear, concise, and right on the money. Bought the parts and did the work in less than 45 min. Your description gave me the confidence to do it myself.

You saved me several hundred dollars. If you are ever in the ATL, I'll buy you a beer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just got a notice of a reply. Missed that there were any other replies previously. I'm glad that these instructions helped people, even though they had slightly different experiences. Hopefully there are other people out there that are finding them helpful. If anybody out there is reading this and has a slightly experience, then be sure to post it here.
 

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Not great pics, but it's located just to the passenger side of the exhaust.


I'm on my iPad and haven't found a great way to add circles or whatever to a pic, but maybe someone else would like to steal these photos and edit them on their computer.
 

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Fantastic! Gotta love the internet and car owner forums. You guys just saved me a lot of money, I didn't need any parts! I just cleaned the screen, reset the engine light and took it for a test drive.

No more engine light!

And last night when it happened I was afraid it was the transmission since this is my first automatic.

PS. this same code will come up if you are low enough on oil to keep the ivtec from working. So the first thing I checked was oil.
 

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Danno you rock. Got the P2646 code (as a result of a check engine light and VSA lights)

Oil screen was nasty. Cleaned with carb cleaner and problem fixxed.

The P2646 code was giving a rocker arm problem code (ridiculus)

Per your request, uploaded some photos with arrows.

Side shot.jpg screen.jpg From above.jpg Side shot.jpg screen.jpg From above.jpg
 

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My situation is similar, but maybe not identical - this started happening when the weather here in CT got cold in November. ('05 2WD EX) The VSA and triangle lights go on when I first start the car cold. If I go somewhere and start the car again (warm engine), the VSA and triangle lights do not go on. My guess, based on the above posts, is that the cold oil may not be getting through the filter screen easily enough to reach the sensor and preclude the alert lights going on, but warmed-up oil does get through easily enough. I plan to try the filter-screen cleaning to see if it helps. I really appreciate the accumulated wisdom of this forum!
 

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First of all Thanks to everyone, especially danno for this thread.

Let me start by admitting I haven't been the best at regularly changing my oil. after having the p2646 code pulled at advance auto parts I did check and my oil level was down a little over quart (I know I'm embarrassed). I had the EXACT thing happen to me that danno did, I read this entire thread and was ready to tackle the screen cleaning. I did however take the lazy/hopeful way out and just try an oil/filter change. After re-connecting my battery the check engine light and any and all hesitation went away. All seems back to normal. I'm not trying to say the screen cleaning or switch will never need to be changed/cleaned, but perhaps try a simple oil change first.......just my experience.

Thanks again to all.
 

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After reading all the posts about clogged screens I'm wondering what exactly is causing the oil in that location to become all 'gunked up'?
Only thing I can think of is you guys aren't getting into the V-TEC mode often enough. If the oil is stagnant at the point of the screen and doesn't get circulated unless the V-TEC solenoid activates to open the passage for flow it will naturally get sludgy at that point, even with regular oil changes.
My advice would be to step on it and exercise the V-TEC mode every once in a while to keep it cleaned out.

What do you all think?
 

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HI all
I just got check engine light and VSA and triangle with exclaimation point while trying to drive to PA. as soon as the light cam on the car started to buck (as if it was going to stall, but didn't) pulled over and shut off engine. then all was good again except for CIL. after a couple miles of highway driving it started again. would these symptoms be addressed by cleaning out the filter and the sensor, as it is so awesomely described here.
Thanks
 

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The 2007 that I just bought threw these codes the day after I bought it. Not good. After I followed the solution on this post the issue is solved and only cost my time. It wasn't fun reach the back side of the engine but it is good. The screen was certainly nasty looking. I think it had Penzoil in it. Changed to Valvoline synthetic oil and a Wix filter and hoping that it will be good now.
 

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