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Guys you Rock!

Last Sunday I was driving my CRV 2006 EX and suddenly engine light and VSA and exclamation light all popped up. Car started to drive rough, RPM went crazy. I took CRV to Boch Honda in Norwood, MA. They run diagnostic and stated oil pressure switch failed. It cost me $520.00 and 3 hours of wait time.
Guys, you rock if you could fixed oil pressure switch by yourself!!!
 

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great post - thanks!

So, i have the stumbling on acceleration with the same 2646 code coming up (i just replaced the f/a sensor from a code p0134). I have a few questions:

1. is the project easy from up top? or, must i remove the right wheel (like i saw on one youtube)?

2. is the sequence (a) oil change, (b) clean screen in vtech solenoid assembly (the thing with 3 bolts on back side of "starboard" side of engine), (b) if no success, buy new vtech solenoid (does that include a new screen? or must i buy a new screen?), and (c) buy oil pressure switch?

thanks for any insights!
 

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great post - thanks!

So, i have the stumbling on acceleration with the same 2646 code coming up (i just replaced the f/a sensor from a code p0134). I have a few questions:

1. is the project easy from up top? or, must i remove the right wheel (like i saw on one youtube)?

2. is the sequence (a) oil change, (b) clean screen in vtech solenoid assembly (the thing with 3 bolts on back side of "starboard" side of engine), (b) if no success, buy new vtech solenoid (does that include a new screen? or must i buy a new screen?), and (c) buy oil pressure switch?

thanks for any insights!
The oil pressure switch is located below the VTEC assembly. So it is not accessible from the top. You will need to strech too far down into the engine bay, and the metal bracket on the VTEC will bite into the arm. You can access it from under the car by sticking a hand up the engine behind right wheel, but it will be by-feel-only. You won't be able to see or use both hands.
 

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The oil pressure switch is located below the VTEC assembly. So it is not accessible from the top. You will need to strech too far down into the engine bay, and the metal bracket on the VTEC will bite into the arm. You can access it from under the car by sticking a hand up the engine behind right wheel, but it will be by-feel-only. You won't be able to see or use both hands.

thanks - if i'm not changing the switch, then is the filter clean easy to do from the top?
 

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Have a 2006 CRV all wheel drive with 129K miles. Had exact same symptoms suddenly occur the other night with all three lights on. Here's a key point thought that noone's talking about; when I first get in my car after it sets over night and take off an run it through its automatic gears by working the gearshift manually the thing runs like a raped ape all the way up to 6000 + rpm . However, a short while later after the lights come on then its helpless. Is not each of these sensors and oil pressure sensors working properly when its running up through its powerband and you can feel the VTEC working????? but then the sensor is falty a little while later when it's jerking and will hardly run? Tried the screen cleaning and found it without hardly any gunk in it. Reseated both the wire connectors under the shield. Still have the problem after the engine gets warm and lights all kick on.

So which of these three sensors/oil pressure sensors would youall recommend me start changing if I'm going to be a parts changer??? OH, and both autozone and advance auto parts's scanners said that P2646 was my DTC that came up . Advance also said I had 83-1 but I don't know what that even is.

Family members whom I got the car from tell me that the shop that did the oil change "did something to the computer to make it turn on lights when the next oil change is due" WHAT..THAA !! WHAT'S THAT and is that possible or something that could have somethin to do with this problem ???
 

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bigpig41,
Since you do most of the work yourself, I think you would really benefit from having an OBDII reader or, even better, a real time gauge like a Scangauge or Ultra-Guage that not only display codes, pending codes, ability to reset codes and much, much more (coolant temp, remember).
The shop most likely reset the MM (Maintenance Minder) which is supposed to remind you when you need an oil change, among other things.
Look up 'limp mode', and I'm not referring to your manhood. :eek:
Limp mode info in a 2006 crv is readily available on the Internet.
Again, buy and install a real-time gauge like a ScanGauge or Ultra-Gauge or other. You kind of remind me of a dollar waiting on a dime. :eek: You are capable, get the stuff that gives you info.
The 83-1 code relates to "83-1 ECM Relation failure" , what ever that actually means.
If you have time, do more googling.
Buffalo4
PS: Some info here about the P2646 code. Different Honda vehicle, but may be helpful.
http://honda-tech.com/honda-element...light-code-p2646-faulty-acceleration-3012604/
 

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Thanks buffalo for the link: Looks like some folks had help by switching the Vtec oil pressure sensor, but many others didn't . Also seems this is a very common problem on these Hondas.

Looks like the Vtec oil pressure sensor which is Under the cover surrounding the assembly is the first part to try replacing.... wonder if the old sensor can be tested first with a multimeter after removal ??
 

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was able to easily remove VTEC oil pressure switch on the top of that VTEC selenoid assembly after removing its 2 pin connector. Continuity testing shows there IS continuity between the two pins sticking up on the switch. I think that's what the condition should be if the switch is good. You all think it would be beneficial to go ahead and replace it??
 

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Guys, great post. I wish I could have read what's posted here and Danno's instruction are great.

My 2008 LX AWD 120K miles generated P2646. It's cold here in MI and I didn't want to get myself to do this, but now I regret it as I could have done it in under an hour.

I would recommend anyone with P2624 rocker arm failure code to 1st check the engine oil and if it's good then proceed with solenoid valve strainer cleanup.
I saw Honda certified mechanic do this in 15 min. He replaced the assembly and I think all that was needed was the strainer cleanup. He just leaned over his body over the engine area to get to the back side and down to the oil filter area, where the solenoid vale assembly is located. I think you can simply disconnect the 2 switch connector first, and remove the 3 bolts. The solenoid assembly should come out after you wiggle it, if needed. see picture above.

Carefully spray brake cleaner over the strainer and gently clean it. Also clean the assembly from any dirt. Try not to spray the rubber seal.

There are couple of youtube videos you can watch.

I wish I could have done this myself. It would have saved me over $300.
 

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On this screen cleaning procedure: Something I do on all my oil changes on multiple different vehicles that I'm sure most here will consider risky is to actually start the engine for 2 -3 seconds AFTER the oil is drained out and then immediately shut her down and allow all this additional old oil to drain out; and then pour the new oil in after re-installing the drain plug. You always get more of the old oil out that way b/c your getting the oil that's still in the oil pump circuit to force some more of the oil out of the oil galleries in the block.

Reason I bring this up is that over the past week I'm dealing with this 2006 CRV AWD with 128K miles and exceptional oil change maintenance record that threw the P2646 DTC. I took the VTEC assembly off the back of the head and cleaned the screen which did have some debris on it....but not horrible. This didn't help the problem. Didn't change the oil at that time either but just put it all back together after cleaning the screen. Two days later took it back apart again with the intent of this time changing the oil also, and was SHOCKED that now the screen had more junk on it than the first time, and only after a few miles of driving. Thinking that it woulda helped me the first time when I had it apart to start it up with the valve off and the engine full of oil and let it shoot some oil out all over a rag or something stuffed up there in that VTEC assembly area. Get some of that gunk outta that oil galley feeding that VTEC assembly. If one were doing your oil change simultaneously....maybe have the engine warm, drain all the old oil out, put your filter and drain plug back in, fill her back up with oil, then start it up for two seconds with the rag in place, then put your cleaned screen and VTEC valve assembly back on. Then recheck your oil level. Just a thought. Otherwise your new or cleaned screen starts out 1/3 plugged up with new gunk from day one.
 

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No Changes after Vtec Replaced

Hi folks! I've changed the vtec solenoid assembly on my 2006 C-RV. I then reset the PCM, and took it for an oil change. However, the check engine and VSA lights are still coming on and vtec is not activating. Any ideas on what the problem could be?

Some Background:
The problem started a day after I picked up my car from the dealer. I took it in for an oil change. The dealer recommended I flush the coolant due to the mileage on the car, so I had that done. They also found the drive belt was worn in certain parts, so I had it changed.


Thanks!
 

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Hi there, my 2005 CRV had the check in light on I took it over to my mechanic and he said that I had to change the sensor according to the code that was given I went to the dealer and I bought the sensor but after we changed it the VSA and the triangle light came on. as you see it was only the engine light but after I change the sensor the other 2 lights came on so he suggested me to change the other 2 sensors so I changed the 2 from the engine and the one from the transmission and the lights it is still on. my mechanic sent it to a electrician and he found nothing wrong with the car he said the electric system is in perfect condition; I have driven the car for a few weeks and I do not find anything wrong with my car. Can anybody help me out what to do to turn those lights out? Jose
 

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CR-V Oil Pressure Switch.jpg
Danno,
Thanks for your clear post. I replaced the switch and, as you say, it did not clear the message. What I don't understand is where exactly the screen is located. Do I have to remove the switch again to access the screen in the recess?
 

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I hate to tell you this but you replaced the wrong switch.

The oil pressure switch for the vtec is on the passenger rear of the cylinder head.not on the back of the block.

The screen is beheld the vtec solenoid. The solenoid is attached to the head with three bolts.

Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
 

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Is that connector broken on the switch in the top right of the picture?
I don't own a CRV so I can't look under the engine.
Nice catch, HondaPartsGuru.
Buffalo4
 

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I know this thread is many years old, but as these cars age, I think more and more people are going to run into this same problem and may run into this post as I did. I, too, had exactly the same symptoms: VSA light and CEL simultaneously, code P2646, and also had some bucking while accelerating.

The fix was to simply clean that oil screen!!

Turns out, there is another oil screen that can contribute to the problem. There is a video that shows someone cleaning both screens on a 2006 Accord, but the process is very similar for the CRV (except that the "other" screen is easier to get to - requiring only the power steering pump to be unbolted and moved). I'm not allowed to post links, but search for "P2646 Honda Accord ,VTC strainer, Cleaning".

Boy am I happy I didn't try to replace the VSA modulator as many web sites suggested!
 

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I can't find anything that says they should be related, but it seems that they are. There must be a default mode that kicks VSA off with certain Trouble Codes.

At any rate, I replaced the Oil Pressure Switch. It was just under $60 from autozone. The procedure was fairly easy when you know where to look and can get at it. There is another part that comes up with Oil Pressure Switch when autozone searches. It is about 8 bucks. This isn't the proper switch for this procedure.

tools needed: 10mm socket, 22mm Socket,(Needle nose pliers might be helpful)

.....


If your codes come back after these repairs (in spite of erasing them) then double check the connectors. I was getting a code and decided to check my connectors, they looked ok, but after I unplugged stuff and replugged it in, making sure to take extra care that they were firmly seated, the codes haven't returned. Let's hope this post isn't premature and that the problem is solved.


Thanks Danno excelent post.
 

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HI danno/submech. Thank you so much for sharing your experience and photos. I had the exact same issue with a 2007 and my screen was much nastier than the photo. It took me longer and required a stool due to my short nature, but otherwise solved the issue. I loosely snugged the side bolt first to keep the the holes aligned and took lots of deep breaths to find the first hole to re-attach the other 3 bolts. Thank you everybody for sharing and allowing me and others to have similar results!
 

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Up for posterity.

& I'm throwing P2646 and this is the best thread on that that I've found so far. Thank You!!!

My VVT solenoid unit was replaced (I think that unit contains the switch?) and I'm going in for an oil change tomorrow. The lights didn't stop intermittently going off until several days after the unit was replaced. Then I think a friend may have tightened the connections when he was looking at it. Not sure but it hasn't gone off for several days now.

Problem is now my VSA is stuck. The button no longer works and no VSA or ! light when the button is pushed. I can't tell if it's on or off. I wouldn't mind if it's staying off, but I don't like it on when on dirt roads :(

Is there a connection on that VVT solenoid wiring harness that affects the VSA button? Or the CEL?
 
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