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my 2012 crv blows cold air out of driver side air vents and hot air out of passenger side air vents even though temperature is synced on both sides on high temp setting. Flushed out heater core with hose, not much debris came out. Anyone know how to check blend door actuator and how to locate it?
 

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I think you need more than just water to flush out the heater core.
Take it to the dealer and have them do the TSB to it.
There's a thread in this forum about it.
 

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I just had something similar happen to me. My driver side was cold and passenger side was hot.I ran the sensor input display mode by holding the off & recirculate buttons at the time while starting the vehicle.I then got the DTC code by putting the ignition into II while holding the OFF button and hitting the rear defog button 5 times within 10 seconds. This puts the climate control into self diagnostic mode, where the driver side temp while indicate one line in one of the 8's that tells you which part to troubleshoot. I ended up buying the part locally after getting them to match an internet price within $3. Got home and took the glovebox out so I could see the motor, I turned the AC to cold and it was working now. It seems like the diag might have helped or the problem is intermittent at this point. I'll be calling the dealers to find out how long I can keep the part before I can't return it to get my money back.
 

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If the TSB applies to your year and VIN, they do a temp test by putting temp. probes in the far left and far right air vents and then taking it for a ride. If the temp variance isn't 10 + degrees, they then take YOU for a ride by telling you it doesn't qualify for the CLR flushing based on the criteria Honda made up !! It's quite a dog and pony show. End result is they kiss you goodbye. Don't ask how I know this. Craig
 

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If the TSB applies to your year and VIN, they do a temp test by putting temp. probes in the far left and far right air vents and then taking it for a ride. If the temp variance isn't 10 + degrees, they then take YOU for a ride by telling you it doesn't qualify for the CLR flushing based on the criteria Honda made up !! It's quite a dog and pony show. End result is they kiss you goodbye. Don't ask how I know this. Craig
Mine is about 40 degrees different. 111 on the driver side and about 154 on the passenger side.
 

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Bingo, PLEASE keep us posted on the result of your dealer visit !!! Could be appointment reading for us all. iI have a copy of the TSB printed for me at the dealer and I see another reason why they don't like to do the flush - labor allowed is 1.1 hours although it supposedly take about 3 1/2 hours according to what the TSB says. Craig
 

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Bingo, PLEASE keep us posted on the result of your dealer visit !!! Could be appointment reading for us all. iI have a copy of the TSB printed for me at the dealer and I see another reason why they don't like to do the flush - labor allowed is 1.1 hours although it supposedly take about 3 1/2 hours according to what the TSB says. Craig
It may very well take 3.5 hours to do it. But the time involved to set the machine up and remove it after the flush is what pays 1.1 hours. They shouldn't be getting paid to watch your car idle over in the corner. I have heard that dealers hate doing warranty work, because they are tied to what the manufacturer will pay and they have to do it. Not the same as them trying to suck the customers wallet dry.
 

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So here is my story today, and I'm not too happy about it. So I took my car in for this issue as well as the VTC actuator issue. I was told the VTC would be covered being that I had it documented prior to 60K mile engine warranty. But I would have to pay for the heater core flush. Fine. They quoted me about $160. Get a call after I get home and am told it is $99. Great.

I get a call that my vehicle is done and the price for the heater core at $99 was wrong. That was for parts and no labor, really? I then am told that I have to pay the $99 plus 3 hours labor. I ask why the TSB states 1.1 hours, and he then verify's what I'm saying, and agrees to it. I was still baffled as to the $99 for parts. Some CLR and antifreeze. I show up to get my car and the service advisor is on the phone. I venture over to parts department to ask. And am told that it should only $62 and change for parts. Here comes the service advisor and I make the comment to him and he asks about how many gallons of antifreeze. TSB calls for 4, which I had a hard time believing. The parts employee and the service advisor then go and ask the technician how much he used. Was told 3 gallons. The service advisor at this point is hating me as to them unable to out fox the fox. So then I'm told that the 1.1 hours is what "Honda" pays when the car is under warranty and I should be paying for "2 hours", but they will only charge me "1.1 hours" and 3 gallons of antifreeze. So it went from 3 to 1.1 to 2. Not too happy about it. Paid $213.60.

I get home and am looking over my paper work and it shows that the technician states the temperature in the drivers side and the passenger vent was even at 138 degrees, which it isn't. I recorded 140 in the far passenger and 111 in the left driver side. So the difference went from 40 to 30 degrees roughly.

I did file a formal complaint with the NHTSA, and will be calling Honda Monday morning. And when the dealer sends me their survey it won't look good. This heater core issue really should be a safety recall, being that if the heater core plugs up and stops working completely you will have no ability to defrost your windshield in the winter months.

I also might add that I was able to watch them work on my vehicle and know what times things were stopped and started. A lot of standing around, and no work being done on the vehicle. And yes my dash cam was able to see under the hood when the hood was open. Heater core was started about 1245 and my car rolled out of the garage at 1507.
 

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Unfortunately, your story is eerily similar to mine !! The clown tech had the nuggets to tell me that the temp variance was 1/10 of one degree !!! Of course, he's the same one who also filled out the post visit physical of my car by saying the tread depth of all 4 tires was 8/32 !!! Interesting in that I measured it myself when buying the car last August and they were 7/32 !!! Evidently, Bridgestone's grow with use.
The 4 gals of a/f refers to the TSB where they say when the pump and hoses are unhooked and removed, the subsequent flushes (there are 2 complete flushes) each require 2 gals of a/f for some strange reason. I can't imagine what a/f does to a flush that pure water doesn't do !! It's always interesting that these temp tests are done inside a heated garage before taking it out for a short test drive !! And they wonder why car dealers have the reputation that they do. I'm convinced they play a numbers game expecting to lose a certain percentage of their customer base which seems more than a bit short-sighted IMO. Thanks for the report. If you need a copy of the TSB. send me a PM and I'll get you one to have with you on your next dealer trip !! Craig
 

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Unfortunately, your story is eerily similar to mine !! The clown tech had the nuggets to tell me that the temp variance was 1/10 of one degree !!! Of course, he's the same one who also filled out the post visit physical of my car by saying the tread depth of all 4 tires was 8/32 !!! Interesting in that I measured it myself when buying the car last August and they were 7/32 !!! Evidently, Bridgestone's grow with use.
The 4 gals of a/f refers to the TSB where they say when the pump and hoses are unhooked and removed, the subsequent flushes (there are 2 complete flushes) each require 2 gals of a/f for some strange reason. I can't imagine what a/f does to a flush that pure water doesn't do !! It's always interesting that these temp tests are done inside a heated garage before taking it out for a short test drive !! And they wonder why car dealers have the reputation that they do. I'm convinced they play a numbers game expecting to lose a certain percentage of their customer base which seems more than a bit short-sighted IMO. Thanks for the report. If you need a copy of the TSB. send me a PM and I'll get you one to have with you on your next dealer trip !! Craig
There won't be another visit. I will ride it out and see where it goes. Will be making some phone calls on Monday. If it means I change out the heater core down the road, so be it. I can do it myself.
 

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So I decided to review some video today in detail from yesterdays escapade. The TSB clearly states to allow the CLR to run through the heater for 1.5 hours. My video shows it was started at 1246 and done at 1313. I can see the machine being hooked up and disconnected and it is all time stamped. So they will be getting a call tomorrow, as well as corporate.
 

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I spoke with the NHTSA this morning to ask what the next step was with my complaint and as to why this wasn't a safety recall yet. Was told that the more people that file a complaint, the more it will get looked at. Make it known to them that this is a known problem to Honda by referring to TSB 14-063. Also mention in your complaint your concern of losing your heater and the inability to defrost your windshield in the winter months. And the ridiculousness of your heater core failing so early. If possible have your VIN handy when you input your information.

You can make your complaint by clicking here.
 

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DIY: Thanks much for your detailed accounting of this obvious problem caused by Honda's neglect !! I plan on making a complaint later today and suggest everyone with similar issues do the same !! Craig
 

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To followup, I filled out the form yesterday !!! Painless really and takes maybe 5 minutes !! They allow 1900 characters to explain the problem which is plenty so don't cut corners. Don't be intimidated by a gov't agency - they actually made it user friendly !! I did mention the defrost issue several times to accentuate the problem It'll be interesting to see if anything happens - I won't hold my breath. Thanks again DIY !! Craig
 

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I just had something similar happen to me. My driver side was cold and passenger side was hot.I ran the sensor input display mode by holding the off & recirculate buttons at the time while starting the vehicle.I then got the DTC code by putting the ignition into II while holding the OFF button and hitting the rear defog button 5 times within 10 seconds. This puts the climate control into self diagnostic mode, where the driver side temp while indicate one line in one of the 8's that tells you which part to troubleshoot. I ended up buying the part locally after getting them to match an internet price within $3. Got home and took the glovebox out so I could see the motor, I turned the AC to cold and it was working now. It seems like the diag might have helped or the problem is intermittent at this point. I'll be calling the dealers to find out how long I can keep the part before I can't return it to get my money back.

Which part did you end up buying? I have the same exact problem. What code did you end up getting?
 

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Need a Recall

My wife’s car has this same issue. Read all the posts about the TSB so I called the stealer to see what they could do. His answer in short, “Nothing”. They would do the flush for $300+, with no guarantee that it would resolve the issue. So I called Honda of America (1-88-999-1009). They pretty much said this is not a recall and the TSB is basically to let the dealers know what the fix would be. She did say that if enough complaints were logged a recall might be issued. She also said that you would be refunded any money used to correct this issue.
 

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At home Fix

I think you need more than just water to flush out the heater core.
Take it to the dealer and have them do the TSB to it.
There's a thread in this forum about it.
I was able to buy a bulge pump from Walmart for $18 (300 gallon per hour), two CLR 28 ounce jugs ($11 total for both), one foot of a .75 inch ID hose to fit on bilge pump discharge (local hwd store), a water hose repair male or female tip ($0.99) to go from the .75 inch hose to connect directly to a 5/8 inch regular water hose. Cut two ends of an old water hose off at 4 feet pieces each. Pull off the connectors to your heater coil, connect your hoses drop one into bucket and the other onto your bilge pump, drop bilge pump into a clean bucket and recirculate solution, which is 1 gallon of hot water with 56 oz of the CLR. Hook up to your battery and run for 1.5 hours. Remove, then flush with water either directly from hose (but don’t over pressure) or simply put fresh into bucket with bilge pump and continue to run, but put discharge from heater coil to the ground. I did this for another 15 min. When finished put hoses back on heater coil and heater now works great. All done for about $30 total. Hope this helps somebody!
 

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I bought my 2013 CR-V E L used as it is one of the last Towable Hondas. Then I found that I had poor or little heat on drivers side. So I confirmed that The Honda Service bulletin 14-063 addressed my vehicle as previously posted on this forum. . Made the appointment today at Jenkins Honda in Leesburg Florida to have it completed. My work was completed at a discounted rate of 392.89 per the Bulletin. I now have heat equal on the drivers side to the passenger side and can defrost when I head back North. I am posting this to help assure anyone that suspect that they may have a problem that the odds are overwhelming that it applies to us all. Just google service bulletin 14-063 as it applies to almost all in 2013-2014 and some 2012 CR-Vs. Probably should have been a recall paid for by Honda but they got a lot of us out of Warranty before we became aware that we had the problem. Why did I have it done in Florida? Because a lot of us are from up North and We came down to Florida to get warm. Now my heater works as it should and defrosts as well.
 

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I wanted to comment to anyone wanting to do this yourself. The pump used at the dealership is a 1/3 HP 25 gpm, high pressure with a discharge filter to assure the residue is not recirculated but removed. I thought I wanted to do this myself as well but did not and congratulate anyone with good results even though they used a low pressure pump without a filter. I was skeptical and paid the price even though it may have not been necessary.
 

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I just had something similar happen to me. My driver side was cold and passenger side was hot.I ran the sensor input display mode by holding the off & recirculate buttons at the time while starting the vehicle.I then got the DTC code by putting the ignition into II while holding the OFF button and hitting the rear defog button 5 times within 10 seconds. This puts the climate control into self diagnostic mode, where the driver side temp while indicate one line in one of the 8's that tells you which part to troubleshoot. I ended up buying the part locally after getting them to match an internet price within $3. Got home and took the glovebox out so I could see the motor, I turned the AC to cold and it was working now. It seems like the diag might have helped or the problem is intermittent at this point. I'll be calling the dealers to find out how long I can keep the part before I can't return it to get my money back.
I just had the same thing happen on my 2011 EXL. I tried this and it worked! I think it might reset the climate control. Anyway, no new parts or tearing anything apart...
 
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