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There is a bad thing though: the seats. They're too hard. I've never owned a car with leather seats, but those times I've been in one with them, I've found them to be too cold in the winter and too hot in the summer.
The seats in our 2009s don't seem all that hard. They are not mushy soft, but I have been in far worse cloth seats that were extremely hard and uncomfortable (like the Chevy Cruze I rode in--the seats were flat out painful). But I do like more support in the seats and find I get fewer "saddle sores" on long road trips when the seats tend to be on the firm side. Seats can also feel hard until they are adjusted properly--changing the angle and the lumbar to find that perfect position can make a difference, since you're distributing body weight more evenly.

I got spoiled by the seats I owned in a mid 80s car. Leather, firm, designed by Recaro, built by Keyper (an OEM automotive supplier). On long trips, they were some of the most comfortable and least tiring seats I've ever had. Our Civic even has firm seats in it, and they are cloth, with terrific lumbar support built in.
 

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2010 EX-L (AWD, non-Nav)
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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Pics, finally. Still not dry enough to look under it.

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Had I bothered to vacuum the leaves, you'd see the worn-out spot in the carpeting near the accelerator.

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These two rust spots are the only two I could find, looks like a pretty simple fix (2-3" to the left of the 4 and just above the D):

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That's a shame about the carpet, but a good floor mat would cover it. Sadly, the OEM floor mats are by far the best and would cover that up, and they are no longer available. Unless you pay some third party reseller who marks them way up at least double the original retail price (these are hoarders/flippers who buy up inventory just to flip it for obscene profit). There are aftermarket mats but the one set I bought was horrible (made by Lloyds, sold by @carid)--sloppy edging, crooked and off-center embroidered logos, a grey that is more like a dirty greyish brown, incorrect fit for the car (missing the center piece of mat that is supposed to cover the center carpeting between console and dash)...horrible. Maybe you'll luck out and find something of quality. There are plastic or rubber mats made to fit, including some from a good company like WeatherTec.

That rust is unusual. My '09s don't have any rust (other than the undercarriage) so you're lucky in that it may be limited to one spot on the tailgate.

I agree it's strange about the engine cover over the intake. But from what others say, that's the way the 2010-2011 CR-Vs were made.

But otherwise, wow--it's in great condition! And with the low mileage, it's good for many more years.
 

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I bought mine here...
Wow, that's cool! Didn't know that kit existed.

I've seen hundreds of photos of 4-cylinder Accords, TSXes, etc. in the past several weeks and they have all the engine cover. I wonder what possessed Honda to start eliminating it on these two years of CR-Vs.
 

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Wow, that's cool! Didn't know that kit existed.

I've seen hundreds of photos of 4-cylinder Accords, TSXes, etc. in the past several weeks and they have all the engine cover. I wonder what possessed Honda to start eliminating it on these two years of CR-Vs.
Probably to cut costs. I don't think it is really necessary anyways, just for neater looking engine compartment. I bought mine around 9 years ago, think I paid less than $57 though.
 

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2010 EX-L (AWD, non-Nav)
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I've decided to take the car, but price still hasn't been discussed. Again, I think it will be too good to pass up. But we have a few months; I can't drive it back to MT right now. Probably in April or so, I'll fly to Buffalo and drive it back to Montana.

I don't see any evidence of a block heater (no hanging plug, none stuffed in the bumper cover area) so if it doesn't have one, I will install one. Though the car will be garaged, sometimes it isn't, and we get temps down to -25f in MT.

I think the battery has been replaced but I can't see the date code without removing the tie-down bar. The tires have a 2015 date on them so they still have a few seasons left. Unfortunately, they are 17" rims. I have some 16" rims for the winter tires for the Accord.

Once it's in Montana, the #1 thing on the to-do list is a brake job. Nothing wrong now, but I'm sure the fluid has never been changed (in 9 years!) and the brake hardware is probably rusted together now.

Then, get rid of all that Z-1 ATF and put in DW-1, for better cold-weather performance. (The owner's manual mentions Z-1, so that was probably factory-fill back then.)

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Kontai69 - Thanks for the link to the engine cover, that's on the list of things to get. It just looks unfinished without it. My 07 Accord 2.4 came with one.

Mike728 - I may be interested in those mats; I subscribed to that thread. It's possible the floor mats are somewhere in the house.
 

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Then, get rid of all that Z-1 ATF and put in DW-1, for better cold-weather performance. (The owner's manual mentions Z-1, so that was probably factory-fill back then.)
Z-1 won't hurt anything but I agree you should do a drain and fill (maybe three times) as it is probably still on the original fluid, and it's more than due for a change. If you do your own fluid changes, this is probably the easiest one to do.

The block heater shouldn't be too bad to install. On our Civic, I removed the plug from the engine to drain out the fluids when replacing the cylinder head, and it was located near the oil filter. I would presume the K-series has it on the back of the block somewhere, but you can tell if you can find the instructions online for installing the block heater accessory.
 

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I found the 2010 block heater install instructions here:


I would grab a copy quickly, as handa-accessories.com has shut down their online store, so it might not be available for long.

And plan for a long weekend of work. The instructions are 15 pages long, and 65 steps.
Step 52 is reinstalling the front bumper.
 

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Darn road salt! If that was my car, I would apply some rust converter the rusted areas to slow down further rusting.

Lucky I live where it doesn't snow (N. California). I was under my 2011 CR-V yesterday doing an oil/filter change, so I inspected the underbody. Other than surface rust on the brake rotors and half-shafts, the bottom of my 9 year old car looks almost brand new. The bolts, suspension components, body seams...not a speck of rust.
 

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Thats quite a bit of rust- I have a 2011 & am in central ny but have rustproofed mine with Rusfre which is like a thick version of fluid film so mine has much less rust - however main area to check would be front attachment bolts for rear trailing arms- the boxed area where those bolts attach can rust out causing trailing arm to come loose-hence the recall in Canada crvs- if those areas are ok car will probably be good
 
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