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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2007 CRV and in the past couple of months we have had to boost it multiple times to start in the morning, but this is inconsistent. There are a number of minor issues with this car (see below), but my main concern is the apparent constant draw on the battery. Here are the details:

  • Bought new battery in November after the old one died when we didn't drive for a couple of weeks
  • Since ~Feb if we forgot to plug it in it usually won't start in the morning without using our portable booster pack - always starts with the boost. We forgot to plug it in twice over this period when it was cold enough to warrant being plugged in.
  • Since the weather has started to warm (we live in the Arctic, so we are having lows of about -5 to -10 C at night) we don't plug it in and we have had to boost some days, but not always. It seems that if we don't drive one day then we have to boost it the next day to start, but this isn't consistent. It has been slightly warmer the past week or so and we haven't had to boost it once.

It sounds to me that the battery is having a slow draw, and it likely existed with the previous battery and caused it to die. But it's very inconsistent.

As a side note, possibly related if ground issues or others - we experience other intermittent electrical issues.

  • Wipers act erratically now and again. When I turn them on to do one swipe, they will occasionally continue to run for 15 or 20 seconds and some times stop mid windshield
  • Our electric locks trigger on/off when driving slowly (~20km/hr). I believe this is usually activated when we hit a bump
  • AC compressor seized in the winter. I didn't replace the compressor, buying a shorter belt and bypassing the pulley
  • Rear drivers side door won't unlock automatically. We've owned this CRV for a year and it has worked maybe two or three times. I replaced the actuator and it still doesn't work. Because of this we have to manually unlock it in order for the rear door to unlock

- This CRV was transported to my town by ship by the previous owners, and previously shipped to another location in Nunavut for them. I heard that while on the ship there was a small water leak from the top center of the windshield seal. This still leaks infrequently and drips on to the shifter console. Not sure if this leak could have caused corrosion to electrical components here.

All these other electrical issues could be isolated or they could contribute to the battery issue. Right now I'm only concerned with the battery, unless it's influenced by everything else.

Thank you
 

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Where do you start? Fix water leak first. That as you mentioned could be causing issues. Maybe some flexseal would work ?
Check for parasitic draw on battery. If it is there find the circuit it is on.
Possible bad ground or loose connection causing those intermittent electrical issues
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I hear ya. Vehicles aren't used much up here, so I accept a few issues that we deal with. But I don't like to boost so much and gradually kill another battery. I've read that checking the grounds could reveal the issue, but I'm not familiar with electrical on vehicles, so find the ground points is new to me.
 

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2008 Honda CR-V EX-L FWD
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How far do you drive on your commute? Short trip (<5 miles ) don't help recharge the car battery, especially for your region.
I don't see you mentioned any issue about the alternator, so I assume its in good working order. Even with new battery it need to be recharged by the alternator during your commute, if the alternator is not outputing enough current to recharge the battery, then your battery will be drained very quickly. I suggest getting a volt meter and measure the voltage when the car is running, it should be between 13.5 -14.5v, any less mean your alternator will need to be replace soon.
Also check your battery terminal for any corrosion.
Hope this help.
 

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Eric's videos are always helpful--he was an Acura mechanic for many years, so he knows a lot of the Honda issues and quirks.

I am wondering if there is a bad (corroded) ground somewhere on the chassis,since the electrical problems seem to be widespread. I would start by identifying the various grounding points, removing and cleaning the connectors and the chassis where they connect. I would also make certain the battery cables fit the battery terminals properly, and that the other ends of the positive battery lead are secure. Starting at the source, in other words.
 

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Eric's is ones of my go to whenever I needed to work on my car. Learned a great deal from him.

Parasitic drain can be a pain to diagnose and track down. I'm leaning toward corroded wiring, and/or a defective battery, even-though it maybe new. And the extreme cold weather is not helping either.
 

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That good. Here is a good video on how to test for parasitic draw. Hope it will help you find the culprit.

I don't agree with being a good video.
Basic test shown, but full of potential errors. By disconnecting battery cable and then reconnecting through the meter ( did at least three times in the video) you most likely will wake up computers again. That requires to wait for them to go back to sleep again. Removing the fuses method also has potential to awaken a computer modules each time you remove and reconnect.
He does not mention that till almost the end of video.
A better method is using a voltage meter to read across the fuses or a test equipment called 'amp hound' to read across the fuses too. By not removing the fuses you won't be waking up computer modules during your testing.
Also FYI, the value he mentioned of 50 miliamps is 0.050 amps that is probably more what shows up on an actual meter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I tried pulling fuses and found one fuse (back up fuse, under the hood) that reduced the amps from 0.05 to 0.04. There was no change with every other fuse, other than the main fuse. There were also a couple of multi block fuses that I couldn't remove after I took out the screw - tried with pliers and couldn't get them out.

We haven't had to boost the car for a couple of weeks, but this morning for some reason we needed to, even though we drove the car yesterday. So it seems to be inconsistent.

I will watch this video above and see what I can do. The fuse panel under the steering column is very challenging to reach, so we'll see how successful i am at getting the multimeter probes in there.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions. I tried pulling fuses and found one fuse (back up fuse, under the hood) that reduced the amps from 0.05 to 0.04. There was no change with every other fuse, other than the main fuse. There were also a couple of multi block fuses that I couldn't remove after I took out the screw - tried with pliers and couldn't get them out.

We haven't had to boost the car for a couple of weeks, but this morning for some reason we needed to, even though we drove the car yesterday. So it seems to be inconsistent.

I will watch this video above and see what I can do. The fuse panel under the steering column is very challenging to reach, so we'll see how successful i am at getting the multimeter probes in there.
I wonder if you have some system in the vehicle that is supposed to power down when the vehicle is off... yet it does not always do so. Either that, or a intermittent short somewhere.

Anyway.. the above videos are NOT best practices for finding a parasitic drain. The video below shows a much better practice as it does not require disconnecting the battery to put a current meter in series with it. Instead, you simply measure across each fuse.... and if there is even very small current draw in a circuit.. you will see a voltage across the two pin-points on the top of the fuse.

 

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I wonder if you have some system in the vehicle that is supposed to power down when the vehicle is off... yet it does not always do so. Either that, or a intermittent short somewhere.

Anyway.. the above videos are NOT best practices for finding a parasitic drain. The video below shows a much better practice as it does not require disconnecting the battery to put a current meter in series with it. Instead, you simply measure across each fuse.... and if there is even very small current draw in a circuit.. you will see a voltage across the two pin-points on the top of the fuse.

Which videos are you referring to above?
 

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... several battery TSBs on the CR-V. Get the software update, and stay far away from Honda batteries. Get a NAPA Legend Professional 51R.
 

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'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
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Draw issues aside, if any, I highly recommend a smart battery tender, especially in your climate and with infrequent use. It will keep a good battery healthy. That said, you might consider upgrading to a Group 24F battery, like I did on my '07. I did a write-up on it here: Gen 3 Group 24F Battery Upgrade . The 51R is notoriously too small. After all, it's a riding lawnmower battery. No kidding, it is.

You can also find a wealth of info in the main 24F thread, here: Larger Group 24 Battery Install .

This is a common issue with all CR-V's. I wouldn't get another 51R, it's just perpetuating the same issue. I did it twice, so I speak from experience. Go big! My thread will tell you everything you need to know to do the job. Takes an hour or so. Not rocket science or brain surgery. Will not void warranty or harm alternator in any way on any year CR-V. It is a warm weather job. It was 90 here when I did mine. I have to deal with the opposite temp extremes, but I wouldn't trade ya.

Keep us up to date on what you decide.
 

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I had a problem with batteries draining and discovered the problem was caused by a box of tricks which was part of the audio equipment (was it bluetooth, or hands-free; I forget now). I located a multi-pin connector in the centre console, disconnected it and haven't had a problem since. Mine is a right hand drive UK model and i just removed the carpet/trim where the calf of my left leg would rest and felt around at a level below the gearstick and there it was. I didn't use the hands free buttons on my steering wheel so don't miss not having them active. If you get stuck there is a thread on here explaining better - alternatively let me know if you'd like a photograph posting
good luck
 
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