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The total capacity of the cooling system is just about 1.6 Gallons. You could just drain out one gallon and refill with new. It is hard to get all of the old coolant out,so a better idea would be to drain out one gallon and drive the car with the heater on to circulate the coolant and then drain and fill another gallon. Be sure to bleed the air out at the bleed fitting.
 

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Everything in Moderation
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I replaced a little less than 1.5 gallons total, during my recent drain & fill.

I put a little over one gallon in after the system was drained, but added almost a half-gallon during the following week, as the system purged itself of air.
 

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I replaced a little less than 1.5 gallons total, during my recent drain & fill.

I put a little over one gallon in after the system was drained, but added almost a half-gallon during the following week, as the system purged itself of air.
Be careful driving around without the system purged properly. If you have air in the system you can overheat the block and blow the headgasket and warp the head. This doesn't always read on the dummy temperature gauge (which doesn't move between about 180 and 220F). Localized boiling caused by an air bubble won't read unless it's by the temperature sensor, so you could be overheating your car and not know it.

It sounds like you personally got away okay, but as a warning to others, make sure you bleed your cooling system properly before you drive your car after a flush. You can badly overheat your engine in very little time if you aren't careful.
 

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Everything in Moderation
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Be careful driving around without the system purged properly.... Localized boiling caused by an air bubble won't read unless it's by the temperature sensor, so you could be overheating your car and not know it.
You are correct about that danger...

I did it by the Helms manual's direction (drain, then idle until the thermostat opened, then added coolant as the radiator level went down). I have an OBDII reader and the temp (as reported by the PCM) stayed at about 225 degrees while the engine "waited" for the t-stat to get going.

Still, there are always pockets of air that will not be purged until RPMs or bumps in the road drive them through. That's why I re-checked the reservoir every day until it stabilized. I never had to add any more coolant to the radiator itself (though I DID check it a couple of times)

PS, the Type II coolant kept the reservoir VERY clean, I didn't have to clean it at all as I have done with my cars running "traditional" green coolants.
 

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Test your coolant to confirm it is still at a 50/50 mix. After 12 years it's possible that it was topped up a few times with just water. If it's low you may want to pressure test the cooling system for leaks. Fix any leaks and get that mix back to as close to 50/50 as you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i need to replace the thermostat.
going down hills the temp gauge goes below the cold line, but driving in town-flat land freeway or up hills it's at about 1/3 hot.
do i us a 180 or 195 thermostat on a 2000 crv with 193K ?

gorilla
 

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Everything in Moderation
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I would use the Honda part it will come with the rubber gasket that you need. Part # 19301-PAA-306

X2 on using the Honda part.

Twice I have tried using non-factory thermostats on my Honda cars, and each time I ended up buying the OE piece.:mad:
 
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