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Hey, I'm in the middle of changing my coolant in my 2005 CRV EX auto. I drained from the petcock plug at the bottom of the rad. Towards the end of the drain, I opened the radiator cap on the top (mistake?). The reservoir is mostly empty, and I haven't found a good way to empty the rest so I'm leaving it there. When refilling, it took only about a litre (quart) or two, and then overflowed from the top rad cap. My understanding is that it should take something like 4-5 liters. I assume there is a big air bubble in there that isn't moving. Any thoughts about how I can fix this?

I've tried draining a bit more from the petcock with the top rad cap open and it doesn't seem to allow me to add more. I've also tried filling with the hose to the reservoir disconnected from the top of the rad. Again, didn't make a difference.

I imagine turning it on with the rad cap loose would get things moving around, but I don't want to damage anything with too little fluid in there.
 

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Everything I the system isn't drained. There is some left in the motor, heater core and the lines to it.

Anyways, get a funnel that fits tightly into the the radiator where the cap would go. Fill the radiator as full as possible so the funnel still has cooland in it. Start the vehicle and let it run and get to full operating temp. Turn the heater on high. Bubbles will come out into the the funnel durning this time. You will need to add more coolant into the funnel. Rev the vehicle as well as that will really force the air out. Fill coolant res to hot level.

Then drive and check over the next few days. May need to add a little more but doubtful if done right.
 

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Everything in Moderation
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Run the engine for 5 minutes (rad cap loose). Shut off for 10 more minutes. Then top off the coolant in the rad, tighten cap, and fill the overflow reservoir. (This procedure allows the thermostat to open during filling.)


Monitor the overflow level for a week or so (10 - 15 trips). It always drops for me. I just check it until the level stops dropping.
 

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You don't get a lot of antifreeze to drain just by draining the radiator. Next time, measure how much came out. The previous suggestions are very good. There is a procedure listed in the factory repair manual and is also on this forum. Usually you can just run the vehicle until the radiator fan comes on, heater on high and the radiator cap loose, and then shut it off and carefully add fluid to top it off. Tighten the radiator cap and fill the reservoir about halfway from the max mark level to the top.
Drive it and check it regularly and add if necessary until it stabilizes.
Buffalo4
PS: Some squeeze the radiator hoses to help burp the air out of the system. Be very careful when putting your hands down there.
 

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FWIW, the factory procedure in the Helm repair manual (which says to run the engine until the fans come on) doesn't always work...there could be an air bubble trapped near the fan sensor.

Shutting the engine off heat-soaks the thermostat, causing it to open, and releasing a good deal of trapped air.
 

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Nothing wrong with gravity and convection. Until they don't work, which is what the OP seems to be describing. Then, respectfully, this is the professional solution: http://www.tooltopia.com/uview-550500.aspx
A professional knows better than to force things because that's when they break. If the OP simply started the vehicle as he was asking about here initially, he could have topped it off.

1st, fill res to the hot mark.

Next, fill the rad as full as you can get it with vehicle off.

You thenneed to get the vehicle up to operating temp with the rad cap off and something covering the rad cap hole so you can over fill it. Without that, the system will suck in more air.

The OP also needs to turn on the heat on high to circulate everything through the entire system to get all the air out.

I've never had come backs and neither have the other techs at many shops I've worked at spanning a distance of more than 1,800 miles.

Just because something may cost a bunch more doesn't make it professional in my opinion. The person using the tool is what does that. Honestly, I've never seen a professional use the one you recommended. Also, then the OP would need a compressor as well.

My route, total expense, $1.00 for a plastic funnel that fits the rad cap hole. It's what I use at home as I leave my kit at work. No issue other than a hot finger to plug the hole of the funnel when removing from the rad so the extra coolant doesn't run everywhere.

OP, best of luck with this and I hope you don't spend an outrageous amount of money on something that will barely be used.

From reading all posts in this thread, I know myself and believe 1 other may have actually done this job more than once. Just an observation from my readings here.
 

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This can be done without wasting gas idling. Fill the radiator slowly. When full, start the motor and add coolant until full again. Replace the rad cap and fill the recovery about half full. Check coolant level in the bottle (motor COLD) after each each heat/cool cycle. When the coolant level remains stead at the cold (checking when motor is COLD), the system is purged of air.
 
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