A couple of years ago I posted a thread on a strange problem I had with the Cruise Control. The old thread is here. I say 'strange', but it's not entirely rare - others on this forum, and other internet sites have reported the same issue/behavior.
Basically, the issue was the cruise would set and function normally for 2-20 seconds. Then the cruise would shut off, the light on the dash would go out and it would not respond to any other inputs.
The only way to get the cruise of start again was to switch off / on the main switch on the left side of the dash.
I have been swapping salvage yard parts for 2 years. Every time I'd see a new car at the yard, I'd grab all the usual suspects - actuator, main switch, brake switch, control unit. I've got a whole collection of 'em. All the various parts I swapped made no difference to the behavior. After awhile I determined that it was unlikely that ALL the parts were bad. It just had to be something else.
This week I started again in earnest. I created a more systematic approach to testing all the cruise control wiring, beyond what was explained in the service manual (which, by now, I have practically memorized). I used a PowerProbe and various test tights to really check the health of the wiring.
All the wires 'passed' the tests listed on page 04-45 and 46 in the service manual. BUT, even though the brown/yellow wire (which controls the deceleration at the actuator) tests ok, further experimenting showed the wire was actually short-to-ground.
More wiring tracing followed (much more), and finally I was able to find the short-to-ground:
![Light Electrical wiring Gas Electrical supply Cable]()
This spot is immediately to the right of the drivers right shin. That metal bracket is the keeper for the shifter cable.
Here's another view:
![Motor vehicle Vehicle Electrical wiring Auto part Automotive exterior]()
That black sheathing that I pulled back does not extend far enough to protect the wires from the metal bracket. The nick in the brown/yellow wire was almost smaller than could be seen - I could feel it as much as I could see it. Touching the nick to the bracket immediately lit up the multimeter (set to continuity to ground).
I taped up the nick and the wire bundle and added some wiring loom. Test drive shows the cruise to work perfectly.
Hope this helps somebody in the future. And even if you don't have any issues, you might want to remove the lower center dash cover and check if your wires are rubbing on the shifter cable bracket.
Basically, the issue was the cruise would set and function normally for 2-20 seconds. Then the cruise would shut off, the light on the dash would go out and it would not respond to any other inputs.
The only way to get the cruise of start again was to switch off / on the main switch on the left side of the dash.
I have been swapping salvage yard parts for 2 years. Every time I'd see a new car at the yard, I'd grab all the usual suspects - actuator, main switch, brake switch, control unit. I've got a whole collection of 'em. All the various parts I swapped made no difference to the behavior. After awhile I determined that it was unlikely that ALL the parts were bad. It just had to be something else.
This week I started again in earnest. I created a more systematic approach to testing all the cruise control wiring, beyond what was explained in the service manual (which, by now, I have practically memorized). I used a PowerProbe and various test tights to really check the health of the wiring.
All the wires 'passed' the tests listed on page 04-45 and 46 in the service manual. BUT, even though the brown/yellow wire (which controls the deceleration at the actuator) tests ok, further experimenting showed the wire was actually short-to-ground.
More wiring tracing followed (much more), and finally I was able to find the short-to-ground:
This spot is immediately to the right of the drivers right shin. That metal bracket is the keeper for the shifter cable.
Here's another view:
That black sheathing that I pulled back does not extend far enough to protect the wires from the metal bracket. The nick in the brown/yellow wire was almost smaller than could be seen - I could feel it as much as I could see it. Touching the nick to the bracket immediately lit up the multimeter (set to continuity to ground).
I taped up the nick and the wire bundle and added some wiring loom. Test drive shows the cruise to work perfectly.
Hope this helps somebody in the future. And even if you don't have any issues, you might want to remove the lower center dash cover and check if your wires are rubbing on the shifter cable bracket.
