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I have a UK CRV diesel Sport (2.2 engine), its done abou 100k miles. last months engine light comes on and goes into limp mode intermitantly and usually just when starting.

Anyway I bought a point blue micro scan code reader and it is showing P2127, P2138, P1248 faults. When I clear them and the first one back is usually P2127. That is faulty APP. I believe the APP to be the bit where the accelerator cable gets turned into a voltage and is mounted at the back of the engine bay under a plastic cover about size of matchbox. So I have swapped the APP for another one. Still getting the same codes!
I have also cleaned all the sensor contacts with cleaner spray and also done that to the ECU under the glove box.Now what??? Don't really want to go to dealers I might aswell just give them the car.
Would it be worth swapping the throttle body, that has another sensor on it? Any other ideas? Before I completely fall out with this otherwise fine car....


cheers webster
 

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Hi Webster
Over the last month or so I have had the same on my UK 2.2 cdti 07 plate at about 108000 miles.
Started noticing something when driving casually and it seemed as though the engine "pick up" was sluggish. One day VSA and engine light came on and total loss of revs from the accelerator pedal. It limped along on tickover and I stopped. Stopped engine , turned it back on and got tickover but no accelerator revs. Had a look under the bonnet, saw where the throttle cable went and disconnected the 6 pin connector, reconnected it, restart engine and VSA went off and accelerator pedal now gave revs, engine warning light still on, drove home.
Read the handbook and turned ignition on and off 3 times, 30 seconds between each time and engine warning light went off after driving 50 yards.
Went for diagnostic at Honda dealer P1248 and P2138 Accelerator position sensor error. To replace part number 37971-RDJ-A01 = £251.66 + VAT. No thanks, thats extortionate. Looked at the sensor bit if the assembly ie a potentiometer with 6 pins, so possibly 2 tracks inside. Managed to seperate the top of the sensor and expose the small (50p size) circuit board, unsolder the 6 pins, remove board , cleaned board and slider contacts with isopropanol, reassemble, resolder, reseal and now working. It seems that all that is needed to fix this widespread problem is the sensor part not the whole assembly.
Currently still investigating the possibility of just getting the sensor
 

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Me again
The dealer did say that they have replaced these sensors before, not necessarily for exactly the same codes, and the problem has returned !!!!!
So I asked that if they replaced the sensor and the problem returned would they refit the old one and give me a refund ???
I thought that this was reasonable as it would only be an expensive diagnostic and not a fix.
They said they couldn't refund the costs.
 

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I had the same problem. Loads of codes were thrown up.

Garage replaced the APP sensor at great expense but that sees to have fixed the problem. Fingers crossed.
 

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BritRob

Hi Again
I am doing 2 posts, each with a 170Kb pdf attached which forms a quick guide, with pictures, on how I opened and cleaned the actual APP sensor.
Have a look and see if you want to try it.
I do not know how long this repair will last and I guess a new sensor or APP assembly will be needed, but, it might help as a diagnostic.
 

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I hope it works for you. I believe Honda know about this problem. After a bit of detective work and having been told by the Honda agent after they had consulted Honda Technical service that the vehicle needed a new wireing harness I found out that the problem lay in a contact between the harness and the ECU. This was after they had fitted a throttle position sensor that did not cure the problem. Removing the plugs from the ECU. spraying them with contact cleaner and replacing them does seem to alleviate the problem. My Honda has gone into limp mode once since I did this, some 5000 miles between faults. I have a previous post on this same subject.
 

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Thanks for these posts - My wife's 2005 2.2 Diesel CRV went into limp mode a couple of weeks ago VSA/Engine Malfunction light as described above. Man from RAC removed the block as described above and cleaned the connections. All was well until today when exactly the same fault occurred exiting a busy roundabout - car did not respond to accelerator and limped at about 5mph. Switched off engine left for 30 Seconds and then gained throttle response but engine malfunction light remained on. Tried the 3 x 30 second trick as suggested in the handbook but malfunction light remains on although I was able to drive the car the 15 miles or so home without further incident. The unpredictable nature of this fault is a worry not to mention the potential cost of over £250. Wondering if I can source a 2nd hard part for replacement from an online breakers yard and how much that might cost.

Anyway - thanks for the informative posts - lets hope for good news from the online breakers yard

Regards
Edddiec
 

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Crv grief!

Our 05 diesel crv 56,000 miles has donee the same and we took it to the dealers who connected it to a machine and said we NEED A new cpu box at a cost of £850 plus three hours or so diagnosis comes to a total of £1250!!!!! N

What are my chances of getting Honda to give me any discount as I bought the car from the dealers and it has a full Honda service history?
 

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I have had the exact same problem this week with my uk 2006/7 diesel 2.2. Seems a common fault. Honda seem to want hundreds to replace the sensor which is madness as could still reoccur. So just had my local garage reset the codes and all seems to be well. It does worry me that it could happen again at any time but on the other hand a free fix over a few hundred pounds, I'll go with that. (They didn't charge me for diagnostics and reset because I bake them cupcakes sometimes).
 

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Interesting, I have had similar issues with my CR-V (I have a post on limp mode and glow plug circuit malfunction). The Honda dealer after replacing my relay for nothing said they consulted the Honda Technical service who told them a new wirering harness was needed. Although they could not garanti that this woudl fix my problem... Someone however replied to my post saying they had had the same problem, which was fixed by re-doing the connectioins between the relay and the glow plugs. Sounds similar?
 

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Thanks BritRob, interesting bit of detective work.
I removed the APP but chickened out of desoldering etc. I removed the top and blew out the inners and siliconed it back into place. The light stayed on immediately after the work but suddenly disappeared on a local journey of a few miles.

I contacted the local Honda dealer and they quoted £95 just for a diagnosis. I booked it in this morning before the light extinguished itself.

I am not sure what to do now. I could end up having to pay £95 just for them to tell me there is no fault.

What should I do?
 

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BritRob, do you happen to still have these pdfs (both parts)? I've tried to open them up, but there appears to be an issue and they're now 'forbidden'..oooh! Many thanks. Jo

Hi Again
I am doing 2 posts, each with a 170Kb pdf attached which forms a quick guide, with pictures, on how I opened and cleaned the actual APP sensor.
Have a look and see if you want to try it.
I do not know how long this repair will last and I guess a new sensor or APP assembly will be needed, but, it might help as a diagnostic.
 

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My wifes 2.2 diesel is doing the same thing, so annoying and dangerous depending on where you are when it happens. i second the request for that pdf file if anyone can share it
 
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