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Hi. I'm and frv'r but have to get advice and tips from civic and CRV forums. I have this issue and rather than butchering the existing sensor, I have opted to replace with a sensor from a civic. I am aware it requires set up but hopefully this won't prove too difficult. Famous last words.....
 

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Hello everyone ......I am suffering from the tps fault code syndrome ....has anyone found a viable fix for this issue .....I changed the tps and body (Honda part) buy occasionally the car will trip into limp mode ....I reset the ECU using HDS and manage to get 500 miles untill the next trip ...... ......I have checked harneses etc ...cleaned contacts both connector and ECU with interdental brushes and isoprol ......now driving me crazy ......seems to happen more when car is warmer ........I have a theory that dirty throttle and egr could be adding to the issue and causing false data for the ECU ? Any help ot ideas would be great .....
 

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Hello everyone ......I am suffering from the tps fault code syndrome ....has anyone found a viable fix for this issue .....I changed the tps and body (Honda part) buy occasionally the car will trip into limp mode ....I reset the ECU using HDS and manage to get 500 miles untill the next trip ...... ......I have checked harneses etc ...cleaned contacts both connector and ECU with interdental brushes and isoprol ......now driving me crazy ......seems to happen more when car is warmer ........I have a theory that dirty throttle and egr could be adding to the issue and causing false data for the ECU ? Any help ot ideas would be great .....
I'm going to replace the TPS sensor tonight/tomorrow. My wife has 400 miles to do on Thursday, so will let you know if this fix has been successful! I was going to try the cheap fix, but I think the best thing is to replace with new as long as I set the replacement sensor up correctly!!
 

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So. Just carried out the sensor clean job as per the great instructions. Not much dirt or oil but managed to get a cotton bud fairly black. Used egr cleaner as I lost my contact cleaner and all put back together ok. Used a glue gun to reseal and seems to be fine. All done in an hour from first nut off to cable back on. Test drove put through various scenarios on empty roads, acceleration, acceleration with left hand corner wheel spin. Hard round a roundabout, elk test, sudden braking and land change whilst both braking and acceleration and fingers crossed all is fine. The test will be when my wife does her long drive but hoping the vsa light/stall/engine light/limp mode is now cured. Shame now that I bought a new sensor, I just didn't fancy calibrating it.
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As you said you were worried about cleaning the ERG and throttle I've heard that Shell regular diesel will help with this as it contains more detergent than any other brand,give it a try it won't cost you much and is supposed to increase your MPG if
it dosn't blame Honest John.
 

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Hi …I have an update re this particular problem I have been thinking why is this mainly plaguing crvs as it is the same engine in all of Hondas range …….so I did some investigative work and I have fixed the car with no return of the fault.
The issue is not the sensor but the actual circuit which triggers the car into limp mode. I found all the ground points for the car and cleaned them with a wire brush …this includes the fixing and the part of the body / engine they are fixed to.
They were all dirty and one had quite a bit of corrosion …..as it is situated where water splashed up into the engine…….
No problem since doing this …….
 

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I have a UK CRV diesel Sport (2.2 engine), its done abou 100k miles. last months engine light comes on and goes into limp mode intermitantly and usually just when starting.

Anyway I bought a point blue micro scan code reader and it is showing P2127, P2138, P1248 faults. When I clear them and the first one back is usually P2127. That is faulty APP. I believe the APP to be the bit where the accelerator cable gets turned into a voltage and is mounted at the back of the engine bay under a plastic cover about size of matchbox. So I have swapped the APP for another one. Still getting the same codes!
I have also cleaned all the sensor contacts with cleaner spray and also done that to the ECU under the glove box.Now what??? Don't really want to go to dealers I might aswell just give them the car.
Would it be worth swapping the throttle body, that has another sensor on it? Any other ideas? Before I completely fall out with this otherwise fine car....


cheers webster

I know this is a bit of an old post, but if you disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then reconnect, then scan and erase, the codes will be cleared completely, not stored on the ECU memory, and return time after time.

TTFN
 
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