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Discussion Starter #1
I flat tow the Honda behind a RV. Very careful to follow tow prep instructions in the owners manual.
Last trip it felt as if the Honda gained 500lbs in wt behind the RV. When driving the CRV it did all the right things, no codes, no noise, no perceptable heat from the brakes but just felt like it was heavy / draging.
Took it to a local repair shop. the Honda has 42000 miles, they changed the transmission oil, did not flush - and changed the diff oil.
On the lift, turning the rear wheels, there was a rubbing sound in the diff. that is why the guy decided to change the diff oil. He assured me he used all the right manufacturer reccommended fluids.
He wanted to change plugs as well. I said no.
The transmission fluid was discolored but did not smell. The diff fluid did not smell either but was not as dark as the transmission fluid.
There is no change in driving the CRV, it still feels heavy / draging.
Any ideas
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Chris,
No adjustments to the parking brake, but I will look at it. How does it function, does it act on the drive shaft or directly to the individual wheels ?

Ken
 

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you mentioned towing your crv behind the RV.
did you move to another place or just went on vacation? maybe different weather/altitude? i cant remember the term, but it happens.

depending on the weather, sometimes my car would feel faster and lighter - sometimes it feels heavier/slower. i cant remember the term, it's to do with the air.
 

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the parking (emergency) brake only acts on the rear brakes so if it was out of adjustment it would cause dragging on the rear tires, which to a new or inexperienced tech could sound like a rear diff problem since the sound comes from the rear. okay to test the rear diff try to take your cr-v to a snow or otherwise traction lacking area and try to get the front tires to loose traction that will engage the 4wd system. if there is a problem with the rear diff it will make a groaning sound. if possible do that and let me know what happens.

the only problem i see is that when the cr-v is being pulled both the front and rear end are going the same speed so the rear diff would not be engaged, that leads me to believe that its either the parking brake or a bearing problem, its a shame but its hard to find a honest mechanic anymore so it might be something simple, and he just wants to make an ant hill into a mountain, if you know what u mean.

is your RV gas on diesel?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The RV is diesel, 6.5TD pulling 15,000GVW. So one does feel a small increase in resistance.(190hp)

No snow left here but I should be able to find a sandy area to check the 4 wd, thanks for that tip.
This mechanic was looking for work but I could not fault the transmission fluid change - and yes I am still nervous as to what the problem might be.
The next few days will find me checking the rear brakes and hand brake as well. See what I can find.

Our trip was a multi stop adventure with not much more than 100 ft in altitude change the whole 1400 miles. Stop 1, after 400 miles, no problem. Stop 2, after 180 miles, no problem. Stop 3, 170 miles, noticed the drag. Stop 4, 100 miles, drag still there. Stop 5, 450 miles, drag still there, no change. Home 120 miles, still no change - not worse, no new sounds, just the drag??

Chris I will get back to you, thanks.
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Chris,
Reading your reply again, you said' maybe a bearing problem'.
Would / could that be where? Wheel or differential, I dont recall seeing a hanger bearing on the drive shaft.
Where should I look?
Thanks
Ken
 

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Rear wheel bearings have failed in the Generation 2 V like your 2005. Usually, they make noise on curves tho'.

The parking brakes are inside the centers of the rear rotors and are used ONLY for parking.

Speaking of brakes, have you had the rear brakes serviced? Lube the caliper slider pins, and make sure the pads are free in their guides.

Feel the centers of the wheels after a long (30 min or more) drive. Extra heat on one indicates binding brakes.

It's also possible your driveshaft is binding (universal joints). You have 42K on the V but the odometer only records mileage when driven, not when the car is towed, right? I know the owner's manual mentions extra services when towed behind an RV, maybe you could look those up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All good points.
There are only about 2000 flat tow miles on the V but I will get the brakes checked and serviced and have the joints and bearings included.
this all sounds kinder to my ears than 'tran$mi$$$ion'
Again, thanks for the wisdom.

Ken
 

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I'd ask for an invoice of the fluids used in the service, just to be sure. There's been at least one post on here wherea mechanic assuemd the correct fluid for the rear diff was gear oil. The ONLY acceptable fluid if Honda Brand Dual Pump Fluid II.

technically it's not jsut a rear differential. It's the rear and center differntial wheich includes clutch packs. It bear no resemblance to the differentials in a normal 4WD SUV.... or even the AWD system in other CUV's or cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just checked the invoice, Dual Pump Fluid was shown, 2 Qt at $18.99 / qt
That must be good stuff.
:)
 

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holy mark-up batman! in my area of SC i get it for like 8 bucks a bottle from the dealership
:eek: Yeah, site sponsor H and A sells the stuff for $6.69/qt. Retail price (MSRP) is $8.92. 1.3 qts per drain on an '05.

++++++++++++

Thinking about that dragging feeling, were different tires installed? Was the suspension aligned? Was the V loaded more, one time than the other?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The wheel alignment appears good. The V doesn't pull to either side nor is there any unusual wear / scuffing showing on the front tires.
Also; the load carried in the V was not altered.
Thanks for the heads up on the fluid - I guess Joe has used up all his chances of getting me back as a repeat.
For now, I am going to fully explore the brake and bearing option.
I will report back what I find.

Ken
 

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Could the perceived problem be with the tow vehicle? Perhaps test-tow another car...


I'm not familiar with diesel tow vehicles, but on a gasoline engine with EGR, a malfunction with the EGR valve (or maybe a vacuum leak) could lead to a feeling of surging at certain RPMs. Hey -- maybe dropping down a gear would prove or disprove that theory?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
To follow up on this - The V spent Thursday at the dealer in Charleston to try and determine the problem.
It is not wheel bearings, not brakes.
After 2 hrs of diagnosis the interim anser is - yes there is some sort of problem, most likely in the differential, but we cannot be sure but you need new tires, it looks like 2 have seperated belts.
Asking what is the problem in the differential could be, i was told, it is not a serviceable unit and if it fails it has to be replaced. Also they said they have not delt with a differential problem before like this so really dont know what the next step should be but that the tires need to be replaced first which would help by getting rid of a known issue before trying to further diagnose the problem?
Anybody else out there with experience / knowledge of differential issues.
 
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