[az_crv]

My MM shows it's time for a brake flush.

Maybe I missed it but I didn't see any Gen 5 brake flush videos or threads and there isn't much info in the owner's manual other than potential brake system corrosion if non-Honda heavy duty brake fluid is used. Darn, I was hoping for a fishy video...

Assuming previous CRV generation brake flushes are a similar procedure:

• use only Dot 3 or Dot 4
• use a 1/4" inside diameter hose inserted in a plastic or glass collection bottle
• suction out old brake fluid from the brake reservoir
• top off brake fluid reservoir with new fluid
• start flush at the front left wheel
• continue topping off reservoir and flushing in a clock-wise direction around the vehicle (front rt, back rt, back lt).
• top off brake fluid reservoir.

Please don't hesitate to let me know if I'm missing something...

 

[UMRdyldo]

I'm assuming you are talking about a gravity flush. Bet that takes awhile.

 

[az_crv]

That would be but the videos I saw claim it's a relatively quick one person job. Just open bleed valve (says valves are one way in today's cars) and gently pump brakes until new, clean fluid appears in collection container, then tighten the bleed nut.

 

[fishycomics]

Supply all to me and I will do the rest. Brake fluid because some one put a two year date on it on a MM.

 

[sirwired]

The only wrinkle is you'll need to fiddle with some tubing for a while to get the old fluid out of the reservoir because the filler neck is quite a ways from the MC.

Myself, I'll be using my compressor-powered vacuum brake tool from Harbor Freight. Probably do the job this weekend, in fact. (It also comes with a handy bottle you suspend over the filler neck so the reservoir never runs dry.)

I'll check to see if the valves are speed-bleeders from the factory, but somehow I doubt it.

 

[UMRdyldo]

The only wrinkle is you'll need to fiddle with some tubing for a while to get the old fluid out of the reservoir because the filler neck is quite a ways from the MC.

Myself, I'll be using my compressor-powered vacuum brake tool from Harbor Freight. Probably do the job this weekend, in fact. (It also comes with a handy bottle you suspend over the filler neck so the reservoir never runs dry.)

I'll check to see if the valves are speed-bleeders from the factory, but somehow I doubt it.

I looked for an adapter for my Motive power bleeder and I don't think it's an option. I have never used a powered bleeder from the bleeder valve but may half to.

Everything I read in the past was that gravity bleeding would take a couple hours due to slowness of fluid.

OP do a How to with pictures if possible. We would greatly appreciate it.

 

[BBLee]

That would be but the videos I saw claim it's a relatively quick one person job. Just open bleed valve (says valves are one way in today's cars) and gently pump brakes until new, clean fluid appears in collection container, then tighten the bleed nut.

I bought a brake bleeder from amazon, i want to make sure air or dirty brake fluid does not go back in... it sucks out the brake fluid and keep the pressure then tighten the valve, guaranteed air won't go back in..... It makes the process easier bc you don't have to pump the brakes, worth every penny and its not expensive.
Also, when your done bleeding the brake lines, you can use the bleeder to suck out the brake fluid from the reservoir and replace with fresh ones.

 

[advmgm]

I bought a brake bleeder from amazon, i want to make sure air or dirty brake fluid does not go back in... it sucks out the brake fluid and keep the pressure then tighten the valve, guaranteed air won't go back in..... It makes the process easier bc you don't have to pump the brakes, worth every penny and its not expensive.
Also, when your done bleeding the brake lines, you can use the bleeder to suck out the brake fluid from the reservoir and replace with fresh ones.

Whut this guy says ^^^
A brake bleeder makes the job much easier and faster.

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

 

[az_crv]

The only wrinkle is you'll need to fiddle with some tubing for a while to get the old fluid out of the reservoir because the filler neck is quite a ways from the MC.

Myself, I'll be using my compressor-powered vacuum brake tool from Harbor Freight. Probably do the job this weekend, in fact. (It also comes with a handy bottle you suspend over the filler neck so the reservoir never runs dry.

That's a good idea. It sure beats getting air in the line. I found this online.

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

 

[az_crv]

I bought a brake bleeder from amazon, i want to make sure air or dirty brake fluid does not go back in... it sucks out the brake fluid and keep the pressure then tighten the valve, guaranteed air won't go back in..... It makes the process easier bc you don't have to pump the brakes, worth every penny and its not expensive.
Also, when your done bleeding the brake lines, you can use the bleeder to suck out the brake fluid from the reservoir and replace with fresh ones.

I agree. I want to avoid those risks. I'll be looking at these more sophisticated tools versus my original plan.

 

[az_crv]

The amazon version looks similar but about 40% of Harbor Freight's price.

https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Pn...ke+bleeder&qid=1559756071&s=automotive&sr=1-6

 

[BBLee]

Whut this guy says ^^^
A brake bleeder makes the job much easier and faster.

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

don't worry about it, I know it is a little technical.

 

[BBLee]

I agree. I want to avoid those risks. I'll be looking at these more sophisticated tools versus my original plan.

what i have learned is you start from the ones closes to the brake reservoir, obviously either the left or the right front wheels, depending on where the reservoir is located (left or right)
oh, you are correct when you said to remove the dirty brake fluid from the reservoir first and replace with new ones, then do the bleeding.

 

[sirwired]

That's a good idea. It sure beats getting air in the line. I found this online.

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

Yep, that's the one I have. I'm sure the Amazon one is fine too... all come from the same factory. I just like being able to return bad stuff to HF right down the road, and I got it on sale, I think with a coupon stacked on top.

Tips:

• If you want to keep air from getting sucked past the bleeder threads, (which doesn't harm anything, but it does make it look like you have air trapped in your system), remove the bleeder screws and wrap them with plumber's tape; I did six turns. (Best way I've heard for getting tape on in the correct direction is to hold the tape stationary, and turn the fastener as if you are screwing it in.)
• You may have to fiddle with the pressure for optimal results (not using too much air but still providing enough suction.) I went ahead and bought a cheap pressure regulator and screwed it right into the end of the bleeder, so I didn't have to keep scurrying back to the compressor.
• The refill bottle is awesome, but I don't know if it fits yet... Make sure it's working properly if you do use it; if the end of the nozzle is flat against the bottom of the reservoir neck, the fluid won't flow properly. You do not want to run the MC dry.
• You can start your flush by removing the adapter from the end of the hose and simply jamming it into the MC resevoir to get the fluid out of there as best you can. That'll save some time pushing all that old fluid out through a bleeder.

 

[BBLee]

this is what I've been using, has its own pressure gauge, i use the longer hose so its easier. (for it to last longer, don't let the brake fluid go into the suction unit)

 

[Tigris99]

Both my Honda's I gravity bled. Takes a while but easier to make sure you don't get air as you can keep adding new fluid to reservoir.

IN A ONE PERSON ATTEMPT DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL. Whoever posted that on YouTube is a giant moron. You will get air if any bleeders are open.

The pump units make it a bit faster but your running back and forth to check reservoir level so you don't accidently get air in. Saying they don't let air back in the system is a lie though. If the hose so much as moves the wrong way on the bleeder it can suck air back in if you pull too much vacuum. If you take it slow (like the hand pump version) then you'll be ok. The air compressor version can suck the system out rather quickly.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[sirwired]

Both my Honda's I gravity bled. Takes a while but easier to make sure you don't get air as you can keep adding new fluid to reservoir.

IN A ONE PERSON ATTEMPT DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL. Whoever posted that on YouTube is a giant moron. You will get air if any bleeders are open.

The pump units make it a bit faster but your running back and forth to check reservoir level so you don't accidently get air in. Saying they don't let air back in the system is a lie though. If the hose so much as moves the wrong way on the bleeder it can suck air back in if you pull too much vacuum. If you take it slow (like the hand pump version) then you'll be ok. The air compressor version can suck the system out rather quickly.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

If you pull a really strong vacuum, any air in the system would be coming in through the bleeder screw threads right into the bleeder hose or from the nipple (a dab of brake grease fixes that); the air would not enter the caliper itself. And the most-common vac-powered bleeder comes withe a reservoir to keep the MC topped off; the thing holds about a pint. (And since they are hands-off at the wheel, it's easy to get up and check on the MC while the flush continues.)

 

[BBLee]

the container that holds the dirty brake fluid will pretty much tells you how much and when you need to refill the reservoir, and yes, do not pump the brakes, there's no need for that, and it is a bad idea while using the brake bleeder kit. Definitely a no no without the kit and by yourself.