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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
I love my 2006 MK2 CRV and have started soending money on her as I plan to keep the car for several years yet.

I recently replaced front suspension struts and springs, track rod ends, front pads and some bent wheel studs, rear pads ( all work done Myself ).

I still have the nearside rear pads to replace , as the calliper piston was seized solid . I'm waiting on a new piston and seals kit to arrive.

Here's my problem that is particularly annoying as I am getting on top of the jobs on the car.

Pulling away in second gear I get a short wobble or judder/vibration. No noise really, just the vibrating judder that lasts a second or two. It's fine pulling away in 1st gear, then I change to 2nd and as I pull away, the initial acceleration brings about the judder for a second and I accelerate past it.

This was even more pronounced prior to changing the front suspension ( the front offside shocker had completely given up the ghost).

Currently I'm thinking:

1) Engine or gearbox mount ( most favourable)

2) Drive shaft(s)

3) Clutch , bearing or dmf .

Anyone have any ideas on here? . I really want to get the car problem free and look after it as it is a brilliant vehicle .

All responses very much appreciated.

Thanks
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have since taken the prop shaft off to rule that out. Still have the judder .
A mechanic suggests drive shafts but is not certain as nothing is too obvious .
The judder is pronounced pulling away in second but at other speeds too and a pulling towards the right ( drivers side here in UK).
Where is the best place to buy the drive shafts? . I'm guessing from what I gave read here that original reconditioned ones is the way to go over aftermarket ones. New from Honda is absolutely out of the question.
 

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Interesting case.

Those 2.2 diesels have a dual mass flywheel. It's very common for DMFs to generate a shudder that's when it's very severe can cause the shifter to visibly vibrate.

I'm guessing that if you are accelerating harder in second than in other gears, then perhaps you are seeing evidence that the DMF is getting to the end of its life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Interesting case.

Those 2.2 diesels have a dual mass flywheel. It's very common for DMFs to generate a shudder that's when it's very severe can cause the shifter to visibly vibrate.

I'm guessing that if you are accelerating harder in second than in other gears, then perhaps you are seeing evidence that the DMF is getting to the end of its life.

Hi Rocky,
Thank you for replying.
I had initially thought DMF may be the problem, the car has now done 107,000 miles and I suspect it is the original clutch and DMF.
A mechanic said if it was the dmf, you would hear a knocking sound when switching engine off?.

I don't know what to think.
We have had this car two years and I love it, it is so practical for the family. Money is very tight at present, so I really could do with replacing only the failing parts.
A local parts place can supply a LUK clutch and dmf kit for £500 . That is still a sizeable wedge of money on our tight budget. I have not fitted a clutch before but will likely have a go at doing this one, should it be needing it . ( I do all my own servicing , replace brakes , suspension parts etc).

Are there any other tell tale signs of the dmf failing?

Thanks
Mark
 

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The ultimate proof of DMF failure is total loss of drive.
If your gearstick starts a crazy dance/vibration when you are driving along then you have your diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The ultimate proof of DMF failure is total loss of drive.
If your gearstick starts a crazy dance/vibration when you are driving along then you have your diagnosis.
Hmm, gearstick has no vibration at all ( nice to know the symptoms though).
I full expect to have to replace the clutch and dmf going forward at some point.

Looks like drive shaft is the main suspect then?

When I replaced a rubber gaitor on drivers side, I noticed the bottom swivel hub ball joint is fairly worn and plan on replacing both sides, but doubt this is the cause of the problem.

Would you say a worn inner cv joint could cause judder and pulling to one side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One more thing:
I noticed a noise in engine bay that I don't recall hearing before when Revving car, so opened bonnet and discovered sound coming from air filter box. Mechanic guy said it's just the sound of turbo gate valve opening and shutting.
I took a short video here:
https://youtu.be/tUlpZ6URyGY

Does this sound normal for the Diesel engine ?
 

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I'm more familiar with Land Rover diesels than Honda diesels. You just don't see Honda diesels here. You hear noises with the bonnet/hood up you don't hear behind the wheel. Sounds good to me.

I'm thinking you need to just drive it a bit more. Let the vibration issue make its presence clearer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm more familiar with Land Rover diesels than Honda diesels. You just don't see Honda diesels here. You hear noises with the bonnet/hood up you don't hear behind the wheel. Sounds good to me.

I'm thinking you need to just drive it a bit more. Let the vibration issue make its presence clearer.
Thank you Rocky, sounds like a plan . I must admit it is driving me nuts though, I just want to get to the bottom of it.
Will be a few weeks before I can afford drive shafts , go on from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After sleeping on it, here is my plan of action going forward.

I have the propshaft off, so be easy to jack up front ( with axle stands) and rev up car to visually see front wheels moving and hopefully see which side the judder is coming from .

Replace offending drive shaft .

Many posts on here state aftermarket drive shafts are simply no good.

Contacting some drive shaft firms here in the U.K., they state their drive shafts ( brand new ones) are top quality to British ISO standards etc and come with 12 month warranty.

Original Honda refurbished shafts are around £50 each more expensive but a seller in ebay gives theirs a 2 year guarantee.

Anybody had success stories with aftermarket or refurbed drive shafts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update:
It's getting worse! , steering feels like it's wandering slightly and not a nice sure steer. Vibration/judder (still no noise) is getting pretty constant . I do get the odd flunk still going over bumps.

I am convinced it is coming from drivers side front ( in UK that is the front right hand side and the longer driveshaft with the intermediate joint).

I know my bottom swivel hub ball joints are pretty knackered , so I have ordered two Delphi ones along with drop links and anti roll Bar bushes.

I am going to order a drivers side Shaftec reconditioned drive shaft ( approx £175 delivered) . The lady at the car suppliers says they have previously sold 6 Shaftec units for Honda CRV and never had any problems . I'm hoping I make that a lucky 7.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Update:
The Shaftec remanufactured driveshaft came last Wednesday

Auto part


The Shaftec drive shafts are genuine Honda ones that are stripped and refurbished and carry a 2 year , 24,000 mile warranty. Not bad at £181 delivered next day.

I ordered from a company in Exeter, Devon called parts in motion. They have been excellent and keep you informed about your order every step of the way.
I asked them a few questions prior to purchasing and they were VERY responsive.

The new shaft comes with a new axle nut.

I fitted the shaft ,right hand side ( drivers side here in UK) and it's the shaft that connects to the intermediate or "half shaft" bearing.

Fitting was a complete doddle, hardest part was removing the engine splash guard.
You tap the inner metal shroud closest to the half shaft bearing , from the opposite side of the car and a few taps with a hammer onto my jack handle bar and the shaft was out.
I did find that removing the shock absorber and spring made it much easier to line up the replacement shaft to tap the new one in ( put old nut on end of axle, keep axle nice and straight and tap in until click heard.

I replaced my bottom swivel hub ball joint ( right PITA to do) , drop links and anti roll bar bush while I was on that side.

Result:

Steering is much smoother and true due to ball joint etc.

Juddering is just as bad! ( what a fail!).

The quest continues..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Further update:

I took car to a clutch and gearbox specialist (Ellesmere Port Gearbox and Clutch Centre ) ,they were only 20 minutes drive from me and said just pop round and they will take it for a test drive . These guys have been doing clutches and gearboxes for 33 years and know their stuff.
I turned up and a guy jumped in my car immediately and drove off , ten minutes later he returned and said there is zero problems with neither my clutch, the flywheel or the gearbox ( phew). The guy reckoned the vibration was coming from the left hand ( passenger side here in UK) .

I asked them ( for future reference) , how much a LUK DMF and clutch would be fitted inc vat. It is £860 all in inc warranty. They will even collect your car and return the same day. Not bad at all really.


I get home and order the passenger side Shaftec drive shaft from parts in motion and pay the additional £5 for next day FedEx deliver ( just over £181 delivered).

I shuffled my work shift so I would be off today ( work tonight), so I would be in to collect the drive shaft and fit it.
9.20am and a van pulls up outside and I thought here's my drive shaft already!.
The driver posts a flat piece of card through the door with a delivery note on it.
I thought it must be something my lad has ordered. Nope, it was the outer address sleeve of the driveshaft, the guy had delivered me the label without the box containing the driveshaft!.

As soon as I realised what had happened I got in the car and set off to find the delivery van. I found the van and driver delivering to a local pub and explained to the driver the problem.
We both checked his van and it was not in there.
The driver got on the phone to the local FedEx depot in Sandycroft and I spoke to them on the phone and explained what had happened.
It was fairly cold and I had rushed out in just a t shirt and was put on hold for ten minutes while they searched at the depot for the driveshaft box.
They couldn't find it!.


Once home I have got on the phone to parts in motion and they are chasing it up with FedEx and have already emailed me twice.
They assure me they will resolve the issue by dinnertime today. I take it that the very best outcome will be a replacement shaft tomorrow morning. ( here's hoping)

The bummer is that the weather has been temperamental of late and today is blue sky and sun.

Will update..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Never buy anything other than genuine new Honda driveshafts or genuine Honda second hand ones!.

After fitting both Shaftec front driveshafts, the problem of juddering became even worse, do much for Shaftec claims , these driveshafts are not fit for purpose on a CRV.

I purchased a second hand front drivers side driveshaft off breakeryard with the half shaft attached for just over £100 delivered.
I took off both the crap Shaftec units ( sent back and got refund) , refitted my original passenger side and fitted the new (to me) second hand driveshaft to the drivers side.

Result = problem fixed!

No judder at all!!

I have a few other issues to sort, think my egr needs a good clean or blank with a map and possibly new wishbones , but things are a damn site better.

Never , ever, ever , ever buy aftermarket driveshafts for a Honda CR-V.
 

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You can clean the erg,just watch a video on 'you tube'.Only 3 bolts to undo.As for your fault the first thing I thought was the new pads are rubbing and the disc is getting warm.Till you mentioned the bottom swivel ball joints,still I expect you feel better now.Always good to know that you sorted it yourself,without the £50/hour mechanic.Well Done.
 
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