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Hi, wondering if anyone can share how they secured dash cam wiring from the window to the power source (cigerette lighter/USB/etc). I'm trying to avoid taking any panels off but could be convinced if it looks easy.

Pictures would be great.
 

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I installed a dash cam last week. The only panel you need to remove is the one between the right side of the dashboard and passenger door. Here is how i looped it

Dash cam is placed behind the rear view mirror on the right side
Jam wire into the roof liner
Jam wire into the passenger side A-pillar
jam wire into the dashboard between A-pillar
loop wire into that panel between dashboard and passenger door
loop wire behind the glove box area towards the center console
run the wire on the bottom ALONG the center console and into one of the back USB ports.

Install is super clean. No wires visible except at the dash cam area and at the usb port in the back. I would plug it in the back since those ports are used infrequently used.

Red arrows is where is gets looped behind the glove box and inside along the center console.
I also pointed out in the picture below of the only panel you need to pop out. Picture shows driverside but its on the same place on the passenger side.
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Toyota Center console
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Family car Sport utility vehicle
 

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I installed a dash cam last week. The only panel you need to remove is the one between the right side of the dashboard and passenger door. Here is how i looped it

Dash cam is placed behind the rear view mirror on the right side
Jam wire into the roof liner
Jam wire into the passenger side A-pillar
jam wire into the dashboard between A-pillar
loop wire into that panel between dashboard and passenger door
loop wire behind the glove box area towards the center console
run the wire on the bottom ALONG the center console and into one of the back USB ports.

Install is super clean. No wires visible except at the dash cam area and at the usb port in the back. I would plug it in the back since those ports are used infrequently used.

Red arrows is where is gets looped behind the glove box and inside along the center console.
I also pointed out in the picture below of the only panel you need to pop out. Picture shows driverside but its on the same place on the passenger side.
View attachment 128337 View attachment 128339
I followed the same route. But I didn't have to remove the dash panel by the passenger door. The door seal is a friction fit and easily pulls away, allowing you to snake the wire down.

I went below the glove box door instead of above and removed the under-dash panel in this area. It is easily removed; see attached pic. This is where I stored the surplus wiring.
 

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You are all making this very difficult. The connector at the camera at the top of the windshield has power. Which is what the comma.ai system picks up on. But you could easily splice into that for a simple dashcam.
 

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You are all making this very difficult. The connector at the camera at the top of the windshield has power. Which is what the comma.ai system picks up on. But you could easily splice into that for a simple dashcam.
I personally would not touch that.... seems sensitive components (radar), I did what the other poster suggested(with pictures)... its no big deal... just tuck it in, it will go in quite easily and is not visible....
 

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I followed the same route. But I didn't have to remove the dash panel by the passenger door. The door seal is a friction fit and easily pulls away, allowing you to snake the wire down.

I went below the glove box door instead of above and removed the under-dash panel in this area. It is easily removed; see attached pic. This is where I stored the surplus wiring.
Something is getting pulled either way, either of our method works

You are all making this very difficult. The connector at the camera at the top of the windshield has power. Which is what the comma.ai system picks up on. But you could easily splice into that for a simple dashcam.
Splice into OEM wiring? Not smart and no thx.

Routing a power wire to the back USB port takes 10-15 minutes...i dont see how this is more difficult than your method.
 

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I just looked at the Honda installation instructions for a dimming mirror to route the wires to the fuse box, ground and used add a circuit to the accessory fuse. (Instructions were for a 2013 accord)

No worries about interrupting any system and the cameras come on when the car is started and shuts down when I shut the car off. Wiring the rear camera was more of a challenge.

Good luck with the install.
 

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I personally would not touch that.... seems sensitive components (radar), I did what the other poster suggested(with pictures)... its no big deal... just tuck it in, it will go in quite easily and is not visible....
I'd rather have the extra usb port open and not have wires running under the panels of my vehicle. But that's my opinion.

Like I said if I had a dash cam I would tap into the power wire of the camera, not the radar. Speaking as a avionics technician, this will not effect the camera one bit.

But in my situation I've installed the comma.ai system as my "dashcam" and it basically uses an adapter that goes between the camera plug that taps into the power line, as well as the can bus.
 

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Something is getting pulled either way, either of our method works



Splice into OEM wiring? Not smart and no thx.

Routing a power wire to the back USB port takes 10-15 minutes...i dont see how this is more difficult than your method.
Better not replace stock OEM speakers with that logic.
If I was scared to splice into OEM wires, my vehicles would be pretty stock and basic. Boring
 

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Better not replace stock OEM speakers with that logic.
If I was scared to splice into OEM wires, my vehicles would be pretty stock and basic. Boring
the radar/camera housing behind the rear view mirror is not the same as changing speakers or taping on the speaker wires..... we are just being cautious and not mess around that unit. Another thing to consider, these dash cams normally don't last too long, so eventually needs to be replaced, its safer to not mess around sensitive parts. Taping on the wires of auxiliary suckets(near the shifter is easy access) is a good option too... just not the radar/camera unit IMO.
 

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Better not replace stock OEM speakers with that logic.
If I was scared to splice into OEM wires, my vehicles would be pretty stock and basic. Boring
You know they make speaker wiring adapters right? There is always a solution than to alter your factory wiring.

If you like to mess with factory wiring, then you do it but don't encourage others to do so. It's the wrong way of "modding" if you ask me.
 

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I hardwired mine into the fuse panel. I used AddAFuse to the starter fuse. I think it was # 21 but it’s been 2 years so double check. It was the only one that turns on and off with the vehicle. The rest were always on including the accessory fuse.
 

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Hi, wondering if anyone can share how they secured dash cam wiring from the window to the power source (cigerette lighter/USB/etc). I'm trying to avoid taking any panels off but could be convinced if it looks easy.

Pictures would be great.
If I were to install and need a wiring spot I use the over head lamp. that would be a battery constant on Vs. a acc on.
 

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Two separate dash cams, one for front and one for rear rather than a two camera system, both hardwired using add-a-fuse to acc (#5 I believe). Both wired on drivers side and the only panel pulled was the little side of dash. All usb and/or 12v ports are still available, no unsightly plugs and it only took about 20 minutes total.
 

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Two separate dash cams, one for front and one for rear rather than a two camera system, both hardwired using add-a-fuse to acc (#5 I believe). Both wired on drivers side and the only panel pulled was the little side of dash. All usb and/or 12v ports are still available, no unsightly plugs and it only took about 20 minutes total.
Did you need extensions or did the standard dash cam cords reach?
 

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I wired mine up just tucking the wiring under the headliner, across driver side and down the pillar and used an add-a-fuse. Had to remove the plastic panel covering the gas cap/hood switches for grounding but it was VERY easy. Your owners manual has the fuses and the ones without the parenthesis like 10A vs (10A) are always on.
 
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