dip stick tube
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GOOGLE is NO help that is why I came here! I can't even find where it goes - flashlight is no help either.
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Thank you JB I hope so.
1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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903 Posts
You should post this in the first generation section of the forum to get more responses on it.
I believe that tube goes into a whole in the center of the front side oil pan flange on the block. It will be easy to see because it is between the crankcase and the exhaust manifold. It will help you if you take the heat shield off of the exhaust manifold. You might need a flashlight. The engine will definitely leak a fair amount of oil from that spot if the tube is not reinstalled.
If you do take the heat shield off the exhaust manifold, be aware bolts on most parts of exhaust system tend to seize and rust in place. If the bolts for that heat shield don't come off easily, you will want to spray a WD-40 or some sort of penetrating lubricant on them and leave it sitting before you try to take them off again.
I believe that tube goes into a whole in the center of the front side oil pan flange on the block. It will be easy to see because it is between the crankcase and the exhaust manifold. It will help you if you take the heat shield off of the exhaust manifold. You might need a flashlight. The engine will definitely leak a fair amount of oil from that spot if the tube is not reinstalled.
If you do take the heat shield off the exhaust manifold, be aware bolts on most parts of exhaust system tend to seize and rust in place. If the bolts for that heat shield don't come off easily, you will want to spray a WD-40 or some sort of penetrating lubricant on them and leave it sitting before you try to take them off again.
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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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903 Posts
Here it is. The dipstick tube is most visible in the pictures he took after painting the block.
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Engine rebuild.
So I'm off to a start on this crazy project. I'm going to rebuild a jdm b20b so I can drive my car while I rebuild the original b20z. I only have 1 car so I can't have any down time. I got an evergreen master rebuild kit from Amazon. So far I'm impressed. Bearing are 1 size and I plastigauged...
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6 Posts
Thank you Lochinvar. That is a big help. More than I was hoping to do.
Mine pulled out too. You need to put it in from underneath the vehicle. Flashlight is mandatory. Once I had it in place, I took a 2x2 and a hammer, and tapped it back into place. Slowly, and not much force. No need to smash it in place. I could not insert it from the top. Another note, the tube is bent, as I'm sure you know. Once it's in place (but not seated), you can rotate it to the correct angle. If you don't, you will not be able to insert the dipstick. Ask how I know.
1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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903 Posts
Taking the heat shield off is only 4 bolts, way easier than the dipstick tube, and it'll make getting the tube back in way easier because you'll actually be able to see/touch it in its installed position.
Just make sure you put the heat shield back after, and put anti-sieze on the bolts.
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This is the “Pipe, Oil Level,“ and the part number at hondapartsnow.com is 11111-PR3-300 if you want to buy another one. You can put it in the freezer overnight so it shrinks just enough to put back into the engine. When I had to do mine, I learned that there was no gasket, the thing just pounds in. Taking the heat shield off definitely helped and it was easy to remove. I think I used a mallet and a piece of wood to get it in snug. I did use a little high-temp JB weld to ensure it stayed. Once you place it, don’t pull the dipstick out for a a few days just to make sure. Pull it out gently from now on.
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OK here is what happened. Only had inch sockets discovered the heat shield screws were 10mm. Waited on a friend who had them. meanwhile I Put the Dip stick holder in the freezer. Took a chance and Drove 10 miles without the dipstick holder in place, it was in a pack of ice on the way. The oil was low so some did spill out and yes it smelled and a little smoke. One of the screws became embedded in the socket and it took some doing to release it. Once the shield was off we inserted the holder the correct way and tapped it in. It felt firm and sturdy that is until we tested the dipstick after putting the heat shield back on OOPS The dipstick easily pulled the holder right out. Did the process all over again and tested it before putting the heat shield back on. NOTHING worked the top of the holder is very snug fitting even after greasing it and continues to pull the holder out. So for now we put the holder and heat shield back on with the dip stick sitting loose in the holder. We did put more oil in. My Question is What would be recommended to keep the holder in place? And can anything be done about the dipstick from being so firm on the holder? It was suggested maybe soldering the holder in place.
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Did you read this?:
"...I did use a little high-temp JB weld to ensure it stayed. Once you place it, don’t pull the dipstick out for a a few days just to make sure. Pull it out gently from now on."
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6 Posts
Thanks JB. Does it really hold the holder in place? Because the top of the dip stick really catches very firmly on to the holder and there is no way to be gentle about pulling it out. Its not like I can hold on to the holder and pull the dipstick out. How about welding it in place. I am afraid a new dipstick would do the same thing.
Sorry for the repeat post. My app must have lagged because it was not showing any replies until after I posted.
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