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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My CR-V has almost 150,000 miles on it, and I have a good hunch that it might be on the original timing belt :eek:. I bought the car used at around 145,000 miles, unsure if it has been changed (no service records). I am going to open up the valve cover this weekend to visually inspect the belt, but unless it is really bad, there is no way to tell how old it is. This brings me to my second question. The local repair shops quote around $700 for a new belt, water pump, etc.., which is a pretty average price. I am looking to do the work myself, because I can get all the parts off of Amazon for around $150.

Any personal experience on changing the timing belt on the Gen 1 CR-V? Is it possible to do at home without any special/expensive tools, or is it better just to get it professionally done?

Thanks!

Edit: I realized this is not really the place for this kind of question, so I reposted here.
 

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look up videos on Youtube for changing timing belts on hondas and decide for yourself if you are capable of doing it.
 

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I have done it. Not a bad job, a few nights after work is all it took me, I did timing belt, water pump, thermostat, antifreeze and valve adjustment. the only special tool needed was to hold the crankshaft pulley to back the bolt out. Many claim you can use a impact wrench to do this, however it did not work for me. That being said, since yours was previously removed before maybe it will spin right out. Mine was very tight, and was only supposed to be torqued to 100 ft pounds. You can make this tool using a black iron plumbing fitting and a piece of pipe, which is what I did. If you want a pic let me know. Otherwise you can buy the tool online or a dealer, I heard some dealers will rent/lend them out so you may want to check around.
 

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Well, how did the old timing belt look? Did you also change the ac belt and the otheres?
One thing I strongly recommend is to change the rear diffy fluid and use only the Honda DP2 fluid.It takes about 1.1 qts.
If your crv makes a growling or rubbing type noise in very sharp low speed turns, it is usually the time to change the rear diffy fluid as that happens when it gets old.
Good job on the work you did.
Buffalo4
PS: If you start getting a screeching or chirping noise when you first start the crv in cold weather, it is usually the ac idler pulley.
 

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Hey Buffalo4, not to jump the thread, but my 99 is making a screeching noise when cold, just for a second, like you describe. I thought it was a belt. Is there a way to take off tension on that and maybe feel it being rough or anything? thanks bob
 

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I wouldn't reduce the tension on the ac belt. On my friend's 2000 CRV, it made that noise for a whole winter without a problem. Noise would stop after a minute or so. Once the weather warmed up, it didn't make any noise.
Either replace that idler pulley or you could just remove the ac belt or just take a chance and let it go until you change that idler pulley.
Buffalo4
PS: I put a solid rod to touch that pulley area and could hear that the noise was coming from there. It is dangerous to do that while the engine is running, but that is how I pinpointed the problem.
 

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Found my "tool" on ebay for about 35 bucks.Honda dealership wanted 160.00(I think)...The main thing here is to have ALL your parts,Tools,and time.Once you "think" you have it right recheck it...Have a beer or two,and recheck it again.My suggestion on parts is www.rockauto.com. They have complete "kits" for the job,and a good selection of name brand stuff. Do NOT opt for the "cheapie" kit. My suggestion is either genuine Honda,or Gates..Also... be sure you have a new valve cover gasket kit.Change the oil,and filter at the same time.
 

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I have done it. Not a bad job, a few nights after work is all it took me, I did timing belt, water pump, thermostat, antifreeze and valve adjustment. the only special tool needed was to hold the crankshaft pulley to back the bolt out. Many claim you can use a impact wrench to do this, however it did not work for me. That being said, since yours was previously removed before maybe it will spin right out. Mine was very tight, and was only supposed to be torqued to 100 ft pounds. You can make this tool using a black iron plumbing fitting and a piece of pipe, which is what I did. If you want a pic let me know. Otherwise you can buy the tool online or a dealer, I heard some dealers will rent/lend them out so you may want to check around.
When you did yours, did the intake Cam want to move by itself because it was right at the edge of being spring loaded by the Valve Springs? It never fails , everytime I do a timing belt, I set TDC and take the old belt off, Set the new Belt in the teeth of the Crank and when I run it up to the Cams, It is ALWAYS 1/2 tooth off as I try to keep thatside tight. I never know which way to tweek the Cams (or the Crank) so they line up. How can the old one come off , nothing moves but the new one doesn' just slide into the teeth correctly?
Not to mention, On this engine.. there are no real definite marks that I can see to verify the Cams being set. I know the I know ' The spoke on the Sprocket faces' but 'Up' leaves a lot of conjecture. One tooth either way and the Spoke is still Up. Just did teh belt yesterday. Very tight in there. And I bet the Intake cam is off 1 tooth. Starts fine runs smooth but it Pings under load. I rotated teh Distributor and it all seems good But I know ( unless I'm wrong)I should not need to touch the distributor.
 
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