DIY: 2011 CR-V PCV Valve Replacement With Pictures

41705 Views 28 Replies 11 Participants Last post by mmeyer77, Jan 16, 2019

Sal Marciano

Discussion Starter · Oct 10, 2015

5

Hi guys,

While I was attempting to change my pcv valve today, I said why not take some pictures.

This should work for all 3rd generation CR-V models:

Tools needed:

17mm deep socket
Needle nose pliers
Torque wrench

Instructions:

The pcv valve is located by the alternator. It has a small hose attached to it by a clamp. All you have to do is is to squeeze the clamp and pull it away from the valve. Once the clamp is out of the way, the hose can be pulled back from the nipple. Mine was easily removed.

Then attach a 17mm deep socket and remove the old valve. Be careful while removing it since there is a washer attached to it. I did not replace the washer since it was in good condition. Once the old one is removed compare it to the new one to make sure it is the correct size. Installation is quite straightforward. Just be sure the hose is secured by the clamp. I did not use a torque wrench but the new pcv valve should be torqued to 33 ft/lbs.

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1 - 20 of 29 Posts

Dannynica

· #2 · Oct 11, 2015

Thank you for sharing the pics!!

i am thinking to change mine too, on my 2005 CRV

i bought it from honda, just ready to install it

thanks

Buffalo4

· #3 · Oct 11, 2015

Most times they can be cleaned with carb cleaner, etc until they rattle when shaken (at least on the older models). Usually they don't need to be replaced.
Nice clear pictures, BTW!! Thanks for posting them.

Buffalo4

Sal Marciano

Discussion Starter · #4 · Oct 12, 2015

No problem. Glad if they helped.

Dannynica

· #5 · Oct 12, 2015

Sal Marciano said:
No problem. Glad if they helped.

Sal, how did you got that clamp out???

i was looking at mine, and the clamp is facing down, and i cant not even fit my fingers in that area

What you used to get the clamp out???

Sal Marciano

Discussion Starter · #6 · Oct 12, 2015

The stubs of my clamp were also facing down. What I did was manually and forcefully (using my thumb and fingers) rotate the clamp so the stubs started to face upwards. When they started to turn upwards, I was able to grab them with a needle nose pliers.

Dannynica

· #7 · Oct 12, 2015

Ahhhh ok, thank you. I will see if I dont break my nails doing that. Lol

Schwartzworld

· #8 · Oct 18, 2015

You need these pliers to get at that clamp. Still doesn't make it easy but sure helps.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/11-inch-long-reach-needlenose-pliers-with-45-offset-jaws-39537.html

miko

· #9 · Oct 18, 2015

What led up to this, Sal? Why did you have to change it on your 2011?

Thks.

Dannynica

· #10 · Oct 18, 2015

Schwartzworld said:
You need these pliers to get at that clamp. Still doesn't make it easy but sure helps.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/11-inch-long-reach-needlenose-pliers-with-45-offset-jaws-39537.html

Actually i thought about that,

I just got me a 90 degrees angles plyers similar to that one, i will try it because with my fingers alone could not do it

Sal Marciano

Discussion Starter · #11 · Oct 27, 2015

@miko......the pcv valve is an overlooked item. I changed it because I just bought the vehicle and wanted to start fresh. I'm going to do a valve lash inspection soon also, even though the FSM states that it should be done at 100K.

@Dannynica......take some clean engine oil and drizzle it over the clamp. You should be able to rotate it a bit easier. Afterwards, you can clean it off and it will do no harm.

Greenzter

· #12 · Oct 27, 2015

There's no need to change the PCV valve 'just because'. There are ways to test it.

Dannynica

· #13 · Oct 27, 2015

I WANT TO CONCLUDE WITH MY WORK DONE ON THIS:

I removed the PCV on my 2005, It is needed a 90 degrees bent plier. The clamp is facing down so that plier make it easier, then just pulled the hose and removed the valve with a 17mm deep socket.

I did not replaced because the valve is still good, just gave it a spray cleaning just to make sure

joepapas

· #14 · Dec 30, 2015

Sal Marciano said:
Hi guys,

While I was attempting to change my pcv valve today, I said why not take some pictures.

This should work for all 3rd generation CR-V models:

Tools needed:

17mm deep socket
Needle nose pliers
Torque wrench

Instructions:

The pcv valve is located by the alternator. It has a small hose attached to it by a clamp. All you have to do is is to squeeze the clamp and pull it away from the valve. Once the clamp is out of the way, the hose can be pulled back from the nipple. Mine was easily removed.

Then attach a 17mm deep socket and remove the old valve. Be careful while removing it since there is a washer attached to it. I did not replace the washer since it was in good condition. Once the old one is removed compare it to the new one to make sure it is the correct size. Installation is quite straightforward. Just be sure the hose is secured by the clamp. I did not use a torque wrench but the new pcv valve should be torqued to 33 ft/lbs.

I clean my PCV Valve yesterday and tried your torque recommendation but my valve snap before it reached to 33 ft/lb torque, my head is almost blown after seen the threaded part of the pcv at engine housing, luckily i found 1 pc. of pcv valve at Honda Dealer here in our country and manage to pull out the threaded part of pcv in the engine housing. still lucky as our Honda Dealer in our country will closed for vacation starting dec 30 to jan 5 2016.

Buffalo4

· #15 · Dec 30, 2015

33 lb ft for a PCV valve? Why?
Buffalo4

joepapas

· #16 · Dec 30, 2015

yes i assume its the correct torque as i don't have a manual to check it.

Buffalo4

· #17 · Dec 30, 2015

I just looked it up and 33 lb/ft is the correct torque.

joepapas,
Perhaps your torque wrench needs to be calibrated.
Buffalo4

Dannynica

· #18 · Dec 30, 2015

Yeap, on my 2005 CRV is torqued to 33lbs. My manual shows that too

Buffalo4

· #19 · Dec 30, 2015

I am still surprised that it is spec'd to be so tight.
Buffalo4

wymark

· #20 · Dec 31, 2015

That's not really all that tight I don't think. The oil drain plug is 30 ft/lbs, so about the same.

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

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