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Discussion Starter #1
i watched a couple youtube videos on the 2017, but it seems that even though the 2018 is supposed to be very similar to the 2017, the "undercover" on our 2018 EX-L is not a metal plate held on by screws. i admittedly haven't looked at it carefully, but it wasn't clear to me what needs to be removed to get that cover off to access the filter and drain plug.

thanks for any tips.
 

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My 2018 is a metal plate held down by screws and it does need to be removed to access the filter and oil plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My 2018 is a metal plate held down by screws and it does need to be removed to access the filter and oil plug.
thanks robby. i'm looking at videos online and i apologize: i probably need to look more closely as i didn't se a metal plate...but i realized looking at a U-tube video, the metal plate is a significant distance back from the bumper so i probably mistook the bottom of the bumper for the appropriate plate. i'll have to look again this weekend.

it looks like i can get enough clearance to easily change it driving up on 2x4s (that was my recent method rather than needing to haul out my jack and jack stands. the extra 1.5" should be more than enough.
 

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they are two types of bolts a 1/4 turn and a screw. make sure you have them tightened when back on good luck.
Has anyone ordered replacements for the 1/4 turn and screws? I'm sure they are available someone online. The 1/4 turn bolts seems to be very fragile. And that large phillips head screw centermost under the engine was a bear to back out from the factory. I had to use an impact driver so that needs replacing.
 

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they are two types of bolts a 1/4 turn and a screw. make sure you have them tightened when back on good luck.
Has anyone ordered replacements for the 1/4 turn and screws? I'm sure they are available someone online. The 1/4 turn bolts seems to be very fragile. And that large phillips head screw centermost under the engine was a bear to back out from the factory. I had to use an impact driver so that needs replacing.
Yep, the silver pin/screw is P/N 90674-TY2-A01 the clip that slip on the plastic panel is P/N 90673-TY2-A01. Both are available online.
 

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they are two types of bolts a 1/4 turn and a screw. make sure you have them tightened when back on good luck.
Has anyone ordered replacements for the 1/4 turn and screws? I'm sure they are available someone online. The 1/4 turn bolts seems to be very fragile. And that large phillips head screw centermost under the engine was a bear to back out from the factory. I had to use an impact driver so that needs replacing.
Yep, the silver pin/screw is P/N 90674-TY2-A01 the clip that slip on the plastic panel is P/N 90673-TY2-A01. Both are available online.
The phillips screws are # 90105-TBA-A00
As for tightening the 1/4 turn pins, don't turn them past 1/4 turn or you will spring the clips. I just use a coin ( quarter ) to take them off or on.
 

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If you can turn a door knob, you can change oil in a CRV.
Yes its pretty easy but one reason why I will let the dealer do it is because I was very impressed a few years back when a guy was selling a 2014 CRV and he pulled out a file folder with every service job he had done on the vehicle. It was very reassuring to see that he had invoices for all his oil/filter changes, brake pads etc and they were all done on at the expected times. The vehicle was in immaculate condition and I really wanted to buy it but he was not very flexible with the price which was on the high side.

Rob
 

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Rob you could input the oil changes on the Honda owner site to go into your record then save receipts in a file folder

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

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Has anyone ordered replacements for the 1/4 turn and screws? I'm sure they are available someone online. The 1/4 turn bolts seems to be very fragile. And that large phillips head screw centermost under the engine was a bear to back out from the factory. I had to use an impact driver so that needs replacing.
Yes I walked in and they had to be ordered came to the House without revisiting cost a few d ollars.
 

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Wow! I haven't found a reasonable online parts source. College Hills and HondaPartsOnline have reasonable pricing but shipping is the same for both, exorbitant! Two pin screws and 2 small lower cover bolts are almost $16 just for shipping. They could be put in a letter and mailed for much less. I guess they don't want to undercut dealer markup?
 

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What ever you do, put some grease on the threads of the screw fasteners so you won't have to lay on your back cursing a year or two from now when they corrode tight.
 

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Has anyone ordered replacements for the 1/4 turn and screws? I'm sure they are available someone online. The 1/4 turn bolts seems to be very fragile. And that large phillips head screw centermost under the engine was a bear to back out from the factory. I had to use an impact driver so that needs replacing.
Same problem, but worse!
Couldn't budge that back screw into the crossmember with a screwdriver, my Makita drill set to highest torque, or an impact screwdriver. Had to drill off the head, then drill off the shoulder, then use an easy-out to get the screw out. Baffles me how the factory got it in that tight without distorting the phillips slot or stripping the threads.
 

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The screw is a JIS screw, which is slightly different from Phillips. If you use a Phillips, especially for the first change, you could strip it. Amazon sells JIS drivers, and I use them on all the work on mine.
 

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I'll bet a JIS bit wouldn't have made any difference for me. I think the problem is a slightly offset weldnut that allows the screw shoulder to get bound up in the hole on the crossmember.
 
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