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Dear All

I have a habit of not pressing the brakes on Red Signals but rather I switch gear to Neutral. I do so to save brake life but lately someone told me that I am decreasing life of gear box by doing this and changing gear box is far more expensive then changing BRAKES
I have HONDA CRV 2008 EX
Please share your suggestions
 

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Dear All

I have a habit of not pressing the brakes on Red Signals but rather I switch gear to Neutral. I do so to save brake life but lately someone told me that I am decreasing life of gear box by doing this and changing gear box is far more expensive then changing BRAKES
I have HONDA CRV 2008 EX
Please share your suggestions
Brake friction surfaces don't wear when the car is stationary.
 

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that is the first time i've heard of such a thing.

brakes aren't that expensive to replace and with you not stepping on the brakes at every red light will not save you thousands of dollars. it's fine to shift into neutral, but step on your brakes. i've seen people shifting into N or P, but unless you're waiting in bumper to bumper traffic or the light takes a whole 5 to 10 minutes to change from red to green - i don't really see the point in shifting back n forth. if
your habit of not stepping on the brakes at red lights is a bad one and not recommended. if you do this at your driving test for your driver's license, you need not go any further - DMV guy will fail you on the spot.

think of what will happen to you if you're the first car at the intersection and you are not stepping on your brakes and the guy coming up behind you rear end you. yes, you can quickly apply the brakes when this happens - but... before you can quickly apply the brakes, a car or truck may have already t-boned you coz you rolled forward into the middle of the intersection.
this bad practice is similar to drivers who crank their steering wheel all the way to the right or left while waiting to turn into a street while stopped and waiting for the oncoming traffic to clear. if someone rear ends the car and the steering is fully cranked to the right or left - guess where that car will end up. it will smack head-on to oncoming traffic.

something to think about.
 

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Shifting into neutral should not be a problem

I have never driven a manual CR-V but the following experience might be pertinent. I used to have a '74 Volvo 142 that burned a lot of oil during deceleration. One way to reduce some of the oil consumption was to shift into neutral. That way less oil was sucked into the combustion chamber past the rings and valve guide seals. But I used the brakes at the same time while decelerating. Obviously not as much as I would have staying in gear.

I did have a problem with the 4sp transmission but it was not related to shifting into neutral as you are I think. It turned out to be the third gear synchro detent that wore out from trying to go from 2nd into third I believe. It used to shift hard from 2nd to 3rd so from the continual slight forcing the shift into third it eventually gave in. One day about an 1/8 mile from my house I lost third gear. That is it refused to shift at all into third and maybe seconds I forgot. So I drove home in 1st gear. I actually fixed this problem myself by buying a new detent from Volvo and replacing it after determining no further problems or severe wear existed other than a worn 3rd gear synchro.

I call it a synchro detent but I doubt that was the correct name. As best as I can remember it was a digital step like part that had a small spring pressing on it. The synchro detent was maybe 5/8" wide by 1-1/2" long. The step part would go into a notch when the gear was selected. That is why I call it a synchro detent. It would center the 3rd gear shift within a range of shifting forces keep it in that gear.

Normally shifting into third and forth can be done without even clutching with proper shift timing. But going into third gear on this car it would not do that with persuading the shift. I had it since 107k miles and the detent gave probably at about 180k miles. It always exhibited the shifting problem. Then I proceeded to look into the problem after a short cooling down period. You know the ritual kicking of the tires followed by a few choice four letter words etc.

I ended up changing the all detents as they were only about $1.50 each and the third gear synchro only as those were very expensive. IMO the third gear synchro was bad when I bought the car and had very little to do with shifting into neutral. It synchro grooves were quite worn was quite worn.

The balance of the 4sp was bullet proof and I think might have gone easily gone another 200k miles. This is back when Volvos were built like tanks and lasted forever.

After that complete tear down and rebuild the 4sp shifted fine. I drove it maybe 60k more miles without any further 4sd issues before selling the car at twice that I paid for it after driving it maybe 130k miles total. I painted the front fenders, polished the rest and it looked really sharp. I sold it rust free after fixing the liner less front fenders with the typical rust behind the side marker lights.

Thanks for the déjà vu.

-Rg
 

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i think the OP is referrring to an automatic transmission car. if he had a MT, he couldn't be in gear at the light anyway.

you aren't saving brake life. the brakes only wear while being used to consume kinetic energy, ie while slowing. at rest, there is a much wear on the brakes as there is on the soles of your shoes while they are sitting on the floor of your living room. that is, none.

however, shifting into neutral is unlikely to cause major transmission problems either. i'm surprised, though, that you can even stay at the light in neutral. you must live somewhere really flat!
 

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Your brake wear analogy is right on but the 'gear box'. normally refers to a manual. I have never heard that term used on an A/T. The original question refereed to a 'gear box in neutral!

You are right, neither transmission should suffer significant wear in neutral. We could be wrong but something about that concern just does not make sense.

-Rg
 

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Regarding A/T and neutral at stop lights, its not necessary and saves nothing.

It's also a lot of engaging and disengaging that’s not needed in an A/T. Brakes are nearly free compared to a new A/T cost.

Then there is response time. I bet you'll be caught off guard often when the light changes quickly and you have to wait that extra two seconds for you to react, the A/T to engage and you hit the gas before your car move. If you like getting beeped at to get moving...then this is a non-issue. LOL

Keep it in drive when you're on the road...
 
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