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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 05 CR-V and recently i have been having some issues with the dome light (light inside the car that comes on whenever you open the door). The light bulb burnt out in the dome light. After replacing it the next bulb burnt out a few days later. Whenever i put a new light bulb in it, the bulb burns out in a few days. What could be causing this, any ideas?
 

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Welcome To The Club!

Very mysterious problem. The only thing I can think of is that the bulb you are using is the wrong kind, or you got a bad batch of bulbs. Thats pretty lame.

Another thing that it may be is perhaps the circuit that dims the light has gone bad and is creating some kind of problems. Do the lights flash or burn brightly?

Let us know what you find out.

Welcome to the club, and good luck with your repair.



 

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I'm having the same problem on my 2005 EX. I had never replaced a bulb anywhere on the CR-V and then a couple of months ago, the dome light burned out. Now, the bulbs last less than 2 weeks.

There is no flashing or blinking, it just quits working. The bulbs don't look burned out (the filament isn't visibly broken), but the light just doesn't work anymore.

I bought the replacement bulbs from an auto parts store...1.25" 12v 10W bulbs. No where on the package does it say "halogen", so I don't think that is the problem. Just to be safe when replacing it this last time, I was careful not to touch the glass, but it still quit working in less than 2 weeks.

Any ideas? My dealership has been less than useless on this and, of course, our warranty runs out in a month.

Thanks,
Matt
 

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Welcome To The Club!

As you can see there hasn't been an overwhelming response to the original post. Very odd problem. Welcome to the club, and if you find out what the problem is please post it. Good luck.



 

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Thanks, BP. I'm a "long-time listner, first-time caller."

I've got my fingers crossed that the OP will have some good news for me.

I just took the dome light fixture apart. Nothing appears to be corroded or loose.

This most recent "burn out" actually messed up the bulb. The bulb came apart when I tried to pull it out. The inside of the glass was covered with a milky looking film. In previous bulbs, the bulbs actually still looked like they should have worked.
 

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At the risk of looking like I'm talking to myself...

I just took a gander at the fuse for the interior light...which is under the hood. While looking at the fuses and comparing them to the fuse box cover, I noticed that the interior light and backup light fuses where switched.

The interior light should have a 15 amp fuse and the backup light should have a 10 amp fuse...they were switched.

Neither fuse has ever blown, so I don't really think this is a part of my problem, but I found it interesting/disturbing that it came from the factory that way.
 

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Not having replaced a bulb in years I have one suggestion to offer. When you are handling the bulb out of the package, are you barehanded or using some type of latex glove? The oils from your hand (however slight) can cause bulbs to fail at an alarming fast rate. Just a thought...although a batch of bad bulbs can happen...I just had 2 of 4 R65 bulbs bad out of a brand new package. :eek:
 

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I am having the same problem. Checked the fuses and they were ok. I am also getting the milky looking problem when the bulb goes bad. Wierd. I also checked to see if it dim when the door is closed and then shuts off and it does. Ughh....I keep blaming my 4 year old as he has been the culprit in the past.
 

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I have gone thru this problem before. After much research, it turns out that some same size bulbs will have a different wattage or voltage ratings. That is one bulb might be intended for a slightly different voltage than regulated 12v which is about 13.5 to 14.5 volts. It might be intended for true nominal 12 volts or some other value. Who knows if it is unlabeled.

The real issue is both bulbs look the same and if the ratings are not imprinted on the metal contact or painted on the glass you cannot tell. Not without actually measuring the current.

Using Ohms Law P (Power) can calculated as:

P = I x V = I x I x R = (V x V) / R

If the V is fixed by the regulator in the alternator then a bulb with half the equivalent resistance will result in half the wattage rating. Doubling the intended wattage will result in the bulb burning soon.

Now if a 12 volt bulb nominally rated at 1.2 W draws 100 mA. So the bulb appears to be 120 Ohms. If it is inserted in the 14.5 regulated socket then it will consume about 1.75 W. That is almost 1.5 times as much power.

Now if the bulb is intended for 9.6 V applications or worst yet 6.0 or even 5.0 V, I think you might start to see the problem. The power goes up with the square of the Voltage or square of the Current!

Insert a volt rated for nominal 12 into a 14.5 V regulated socket and it will not last as long. A bulb rated at 9.6 volt might burn out right away. While one for 6 or 5 V will burnout almost immediately if a fuse does not burn out first.

Given that there is a timer circuit in series with the dome bulb that might regulate the voltage or current applied at the bulb, if that circuit is out of calibration it might cause the bulb to burn out too by drawing excessive current.

So in a nut shell:
0) The white telltale deposits indicate too much power has been dissipated.
1) Make sure you have the correct bulb. If it is an unlabeled generic bulb then you do not know what you have. Most all GE or Sylvania/Osram bulbs are labeled. They cost a little more but do you want to know what bulb you have and the quality controls that go along with that? Or do you want to save a few cents?
1a) What Power is it rated for and at what Voltage? It must match the Honda designed bulb parameters. It will be too dim or too bright and will burn out fast in the later case.
2) The Dome timer circuit might be out off whack. I would check the bulb first as it is more likely that if the control circuit fails it will not work at all.
3) Is your voltage regulator in the alternator is out of cal or too high in this case? If it was other bulbs would be burning out too! Are they? Now you know your problem if they are. It should generally be under 14.5 v.
4) Find the Gremlin in your V and beat it silly with a stick... :D Problem solved!

It is not rocket science. In freshman electrical engineering they taught us that all you needed to know was Oms' Law. The rest of the laws you can look up. This is one such case.
V = I R
Incidentally P = I V

Good luck.

-Rg
 

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Are you touching the bulb with your bare fingers? Perhaps that's causing an issue. I know it can cause an issue when you touch the halogen bulbs when you change your head lights. The oils somehow degrade the additives on the surface of the bulb and expedite the aging process. Try using gloves or a paper towel when replacing them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
for anyone else who happens upon this thread with the same issue, taking the advice of one of the posters i checked to see if the bulb i had was the same as the honda one. Because i did not have the original bulb i figured i would just look up the specs in the user manual but it doesn't have the information about the bulb.

After some searching i found the following honda parts page with the information i needed. Its a 12V 8W T10X31 bulb. Honda Part #: 04110-SWA-305

Im going to give this a shot and buy the bulb from the honda dealer directly, i was using a Sylvania DE3175 which is the bulb that sylvania recommends for the CR-V dome light. The Sylvania bulb is a 12V 10W T10X31 so the wattage is different. I dont know enough about light bulbs to know if that is enough of a difference but im going to give it a try with the dealer bulb and i will post back with my experience. If that doesnt work i will probably just install an LED array to replace it. I measured the voltage at the contacts for the bulb and its at a steady 12.18 Volts so the fixture itself seems to be fine.
 

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for anyone else who happens upon this thread with the same issue, ...After some searching i found the following honda parts page with the information i needed. Its a 12V 8W T10X31 bulb. Honda Part #: 04110-SWA-305

Im going to give this a shot and buy the bulb from the honda dealer directly, i was using a Sylvania DE3175 which is the bulb that sylvania recommends for the CR-V dome light. The Sylvania bulb is a 12V 10W T10X31 so the wattage is different. I dont know enough about light bulbs to know if that is enough of a difference but im going to give it a try with the dealer bulb and i will post back with my experience. If that doesnt work i will probably just install an LED array to replace it. I measured the voltage at the contacts for the bulb and its at a steady 12.18 Volts so the fixture itself seems to be fine.
The 10W bulb draws more current at the same voltage so it will get hotter. That is not good since it might melt the housing. Been there, done that on my 92 Toy P/U dome light and on my '97 S-10. Other than that at the same voltage the two bulbs should last about the same. Cannot tell for sure without specs on expected life.

Now if the CRV at higher RPM's output close to 14.4 volts (about the normal max it should be). That is only 1.13 times higher than 12.8v but since power is a function of the square of the V:

Power = Watts or P=V*V/R

At 12.8v, V*V is 163.8 while at 14.4v, V*V is 207.4

The ratio of power assuming a constant R (which can technically vary) is 207.4/163.8 = 1.27 so the 10W bulb now has an output of 12.7W while the 8W Honda bulb outputs 10.16w. That is 1.25 times that of the Honda bulb so no wonder housings can melt! Or more straight forward 10w/8w = 1.25

Concerning the short life which is your problem, a 10W bulb that is run at 14.4v rather than 12.7 volts will definitely burn out faster. But then so will all the other bulbs in your vehicle!

I hope the 8W bulb has a longer expected life than the 10W bulb in a vehicle and you are more satisfied. But my guess is that there might be a secondary voltage regulation problem in you CRV that is intermittent. You need a storage scope monitoring the voltage output by the alternator at all temperatures and RPMs normally driven at to detect such an issue if it occurs infrequently. The temperature comes into play since the alternator output is a function of temperature. Sure there are temperature compensations in the regulator. But who knows if it is not working properly and is therefore the problem?

Let us know what happens. If it works we might have another convert that believes that Honda parts are a better value than aftermarket in most cases! ;)

A much easier solution that has better performance but comes at a very high cost would be LED bulbs. Also be advised that some posters have had problems with the LED bulb and the cruise control compatibility! There might even be a TSB on the subject!

If it could ever just be a simple solution! :D

-Rg
 

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What does the bulb look like to the delayed shut off?

One final though. If the delayed turn-off circuitry in the dome light circuit goes into a high frequency modulation mode, what will the bulb that might look like an inductor do? Can you get in certain situations voltage spikes much higher than the nominal 12.8 to 14.4 volts? Since power is a function of the square of the voltage then that might explain the premature burning out problem. Should something really flaky like that occur.

A low inductance type of bulb might work better and last longer. Actually the correct inductance type of bulb is more like it. Good luck finding that spec!

If the auto turnoff can be temporally bypassed so that the dome light works strictly off the door switch without any delay then the remaining of the dome circuit can be verified to work fine if the auto shut off is flaky and at fault. If there is still a problem then one needs to look elsewhere.

Sorry but at the moment I don't have any other clues.

Actually I do Taco-Man, make sure your Honda dealer does not give you a generic bulb or even another Sylvania 10w bulb instead of the 8w bulb. There is a high probability that for the sake of profits they do not stock the more expensive Honda 12v 8w bulb kissed by geisha girls! :)

-Rg
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the info i really appreciate it! also thanks for the heads up about the led and cruise control, ill look in the service bulletins and see what i can find.

I ordered an led replacement thing, the dealer didnt have any of the bulb in stock so i figured if I'm going to have to wait for something to be shipped to me i might as well just get the led one. i measured inside the dome light and i should be able to fit this (the board with the lights is only 25mmx35mm). it was only $12 (including shipping) for 2 of them so i can put it one in my other car as well. Its shipping from hong kong though so i will have to wait a week or 2 for it to get here.

I did order a replacement light for my burnt out drive indicator light thats on the main gauge cluster (by the speedometer), replacing that is going to be "fun"
 

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12 LED dome array is hot! No it is cool! No hot. No cool...

Thanks for all the info i really appreciate it! also thanks for the heads up about the led and cruise control, ill look in the service bulletins and see what i can find.

I ordered an led replacement thing, the dealer didn't have any of the bulb in stock so i figured if I'm going to have to wait for something to be shipped to me i might as well just get the led one. i measured inside the dome light and i should be able to fit this (the board with the lights is only 25mmx35mm). it was only $12 (including shipping) for 2 of them so i can put it one in my other car as well. Its shipping from hong kong though so i will have to wait a week or 2 for it to get here.

I did order a replacement light for my burnt out drive indicator light thats on the main gauge cluster (by the speedometer), replacing that is going to be "fun"
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The 12 LED array should put out a lot of cool light (as in it does not get hot besides looking cool). Assuming .5W each the 6 watts LED array would be as bright as a 25 watt incandescence bulb! At even a .25W each the 3W array is as bright as a 12 watt incandescent bulb. Neat! Plus the light is a lot brighter white (or whatever color they make it).

The led euro style bulb connector on the LED light has a polarized connector. Note the red and black wires. You will have to determine what the +12v side is on the Vs bulb connector. I would mark it "+" because if you plug it in backwards, the LED circuitry might burn out. I do not know how they do it but LEDs in general do not like reverse polarity 12v. In the reverse configuration LEDs look like a diode and putting 12v across a diode usually get you a very quick pop as the diode burns out in a split second! Unless it has reverse polarity protection; If so “never mind”.

In addition the 12-14.4 volts need to be stepped down and/or current limited by a series resistor or more sophisticated circuitry. The max voltage across the diode is typically ~1.6-2.7 volts. Not sure about that type of LED. The LEDs might be in series too. Like three parallel groupings of four series LEDs. The bottom line is the manufacturer will have to regulate the current somehow. That regulation will not like reverse polarity either so use caution or you will end up will a $6 boat anchor for a little miniature scale boat!

The gauge clusters on the Vs are relatively easy to remove. Replacing the bulb might not be that bad at all; you are probably thinking GM…. I do not think there is any major disassembly of the dash required to remove the cluster with just a few screws. Maybe four screws or less and it might just disconnect. Once you do that the bulb should be easy but not really sure.

That is cheap. Who did you buy the Array from?
How will it interface with the delayed turn-off circuit in the V or will it have to be disabled/by-passed?
Keep us posted!

We might be looking at a future group buy??? I might be interrested in two after I check out the CC problem on the FSM Trouble Shooting Manual.

-Rg
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
The type of led those are is surface mount LEDs (SMD LEDs). They come it little sheets and are designed to be put on by machines. because they are more flat like that instead of having the curved "lens" you typically see on LEDs, the angle that the light comes out is greater (not as directional as the regular LEDs). this is a short article about SMD leds if you are curious about them.

i will be sure to put in the right polarity, i checked the other day when i was testing the dome light thing, i believe the right side was positive but i will be double checking before i put it in. :D
im not sure how it will work with the delayed turn off circuit, it should be fine but i will find out for sure. I know under voltaging LEDs doesnt hurt them (but over voltage sure will) so it should be fine, it probably just wont fade all pretty like the old light does.

I will post once i actually get it and confirm it fits, i would hate for someone else to order it and have it somehow be too large or something stupid like that! i bought it from some manufacturer in hong kong via ebay. The product page is located here.
I contacted the seller to try and get more details about the leds specs before i bought it and due to the language barrier it was slightly difficult :eek: but from what i could get out of him the LEDs are 0.72W with a viewing angle of 120 degrees.
 

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The type of led those are is surface mount LEDs (SMD LEDs). ...
im not sure how it will work with the delayed turn off circuit, it should be fine but i will find out for sure. I know under voltaging LEDs doesnt hurt them (but over voltage sure will) so it should be fine, it probably just wont fade all pretty like the old light does.

I will post once i actually get it and confirm it fits, i would hate for someone else to order it and have it somehow be too large or something stupid like that! i bought it from some manufacturer in hong kong via ebay. The product page is located
here.
I contacted the seller to try and get more details about the leds specs before i bought it and due to the language barrier it was slightly difficult :eek: but from what i could get out of him the LEDs are 0.72W with a viewing angle of 120 degrees.
1) I am familiar with surface mounted components. Bell and Watts were not my cohorts. :p I'm not that dated! But the real issue being what material the LED is made from determines the typical turn-on voltage. Any part just about can be made to SM. Thus the wide range I gave. All this forward turn-on voltage is transparent to you with the proper control circuitry. If designed to work from 9v (when the battery is low) to 18v (for safety in the event of voltage suges), plugging it in with the right polarity is all you need to do. Easy!

2) If the delayed circuit expects to see low impedance load like an incandescent bulb you are likely screwed. The impedance of the LEDs is much higher. So it will likely have to be by-passed. Not a big deal I think but we might need to carry a flashlight instead. :(

3) Are you kidding? I'm planning on waiting to see how your setup works out! :D

4) Yausa! That is going to be bright! 8.6W (=.72 x 12) is the equivalent of about a 35W incandescent bulb! Like TK wrote you will be able to read a book! It is also the same roughly as the Honda bulb so DC load wise no problems.

-Rg
 
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