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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently got my 03 as a cheap work commuter. It has its flaws but the biggest annoyance is the one key that came with it has only ever worked in the ignition, rarely works in the back door, and never in the driver doors or glove box. I fixed the actuator so now I can use the remote for door control. I had gotten two codes from the dealer regarding the key. They ran the VIN to give me the original code, then took my key and put it in the machine to test the key, which came back with a different code. They're assumption, and it makes sense, is that at some point the PO changed the ignition lock but didn't bother with the doors.
Today a mobile locksmith who had been texting me help for the last few weeks took a look at things and made me a duplicate metal key from the VIN code, because he said they're actually the same key just that the original key was worn so bad it registered as a different key code. This is visible when comparing cut lines too. So the new key opens the back door fairly regularly, yay. Still nothing in the doors. It's metal and not a chip key so to save money I went to Ace and had a chip key made using the new metal key as a key to copy. So now Key #3 is the best key so far, opens the back door and starts ignition.

The driver door lock cylinders are probably just jammed up and need to be rekeyed again. Locksmith could do it for a pretty penny, or I can just buy new cylinders, then give them to him to rekey to save, but installing those back is going to be a major PITA. Also, the glove box lock takes the new keys 2/3 but only turns 1/4 way but the latch is also maybe broken because it just flops around. I wanted to double check with y'all about how far the glove box lock should turn. Because maybe the latch is crap but the lock is now good.

So...how far does the glove box lock turn properly?
Also how can I remove the glove box knowing i can't open it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
got the glove box finally open. Had to use an angled pick to reach under and depress the latch manually. I bought a replacement on ebay and at first I thought the lock cylinder was junk but after spraying it out with brake cleaner, then some Tri-Flow, it works with the key! Takes a precise entry of the key, but once it's in it seems to be ok. I still have to do the door cylinders. I came across a site selling wafer pins, wondering if I should just buy some and rekey it myself. Anyone have tips on that?
 

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2003 CR-V EX
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got the glove box finally open. Had to use an angled pick to reach under and depress the latch manually. I bought a replacement on ebay and at first I thought the lock cylinder was junk but after spraying it out with brake cleaner, then some Tri-Flow, it works with the key! Takes a precise entry of the key, but once it's in it seems to be ok. I still have to do the door cylinders. I came across a site selling wafer pins, wondering if I should just buy some and rekey it myself. Anyone have tips on that?
Good info. I also have a 2003 CRV with door lock problems. I bought two remotes a while ago and they worked fine. Then a month ago the driver's side door lock got more sticky, until it won't open with the remote or even using the interior unlock button. And the weird part is that now, the remote can't unlock any of them, and only locks the two right doors. To get in, I have to use the other key (not ignition), unlock the passenger side, reach over inside to unlock the driver's lock, walk around and get in.
I don't think it's a remote problem because all locks are pretty sticky now. Do you have any ideas to try before bringing it in? Thanks.
 

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'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
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got the glove box finally open. Had to use an angled pick to reach under and depress the latch manually. I bought a replacement on ebay and at first I thought the lock cylinder was junk but after spraying it out with brake cleaner, then some Tri-Flow, it works with the key! Takes a precise entry of the key, but once it's in it seems to be ok. I still have to do the door cylinders. I came across a site selling wafer pins, wondering if I should just buy some and rekey it myself. Anyone have tips on that?

Unless you are a locksmith, I would say it would be much easier to take the glove box door off and remove the lock or just take the whole door in to the locksmith, along with the key, and let him fix it. It's not expensive, and will be well worth it. However, some of these locks are not made to ever be disassembled. Even then, he can likely still fix it. Though it could just be that one pin is still sticking and some more cleaning will fix it. Otherwise, that one pin could be bent or otherwise damaged from previous attempts to get it to work. Those pins are numbered, but they come in many different sizes, so getting the right size and number could be problematic for you, while the locksmith will either have them or be able to get them. Let us know how it works out.
 

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Good info. I also have a 2003 CRV with door lock problems. I bought two remotes a while ago and they worked fine. Then a month ago the driver's side door lock got more sticky, until it won't open with the remote or even using the interior unlock button. And the weird part is that now, the remote can't unlock any of them, and only locks the two right doors. To get in, I have to use the other key (not ignition), unlock the passenger side, reach over inside to unlock the driver's lock, walk around and get in.
I don't think it's a remote problem because all locks are pretty sticky now. Do you have any ideas to try before bringing it in? Thanks.
I would take the car to the locksmith and let him see if he can lube the locks and get them working. If he can't, he will be able to tell you if the problem is in the door locking electronics. For that, you either need a factory service manual for troubleshooting, or a dealer ($$$!), or a good local mechanic with Honda experience. Let us know how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good info. I also have a 2003 CRV with door lock problems. I bought two remotes a while ago and they worked fine. Then a month ago the driver's side door lock got more sticky, until it won't open with the remote or even using the interior unlock button. And the weird part is that now, the remote can't unlock any of them, and only locks the two right doors. To get in, I have to use the other key (not ignition), unlock the passenger side, reach over inside to unlock the driver's lock, walk around and get in.
I don't think it's a remote problem because all locks are pretty sticky now. Do you have any ideas to try before bringing it in? Thanks.
So before I got to this stage the remote wouldn't unlock because the actuator wasn't working properly. that was a pretty easy swap after buying one on ebay. While doing that job, you'll see the guts of the door and if one of the levers is caught up on something or bent, then perhaps it's not engaging the rod to push the lock up at all. Mine (driver side) was stuck to the point where I couldn't manually push it down either. When you get the actuator assembly out, it has all the rods attached and you can easily see where something might be stuck. Mine had a ton of grease buildup in the little groove where something was supposed to spin for the lock rod to glide up and down. Disassembled it and cleaned it with brake cleaner then some teflon grease up and back together.
Here's a good link for what I did.

If you can hear the actuator trying (clicking/shuddering) when you use the remote, then the actuator's probably fried. If you can't hear anything happen, then it could be the remote not linking up with the locks somehow. Actuators are common with hondas so I'd assume that, but hey who knows. But you're saying the cylinders also don't engage the locks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Unless you are a locksmith, I would say it would be much easier to take the glove box door off and remove the lock or just take the whole door in to the locksmith, along with the key, and let him fix it. It's not expensive, and will be well worth it. However, some of these locks are not made to ever be disassembled. Even then, he can likely still fix it. Though it could just be that one pin is still sticking and some more cleaning will fix it. Otherwise, that one pin could be bent or otherwise damaged from previous attempts to get it to work. Those pins are numbered, but they come in many different sizes, so getting the right size and number could be problematic for you, while the locksmith will either have them or be able to get them. Let us know how it works out.
Yes I did prepare for that, he will charge 89 per lock to rekey. The rekeying set was 80 online, so it's only minimally saving to do it myself. I actually bought new cylinders (suprisingly cheap) on ebay and was going to give those to him then I don't have to rush to install them. Just getting to the cylinders in the door is a PITA
 

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So before I got to this stage the remote wouldn't unlock because the actuator wasn't working properly. that was a pretty easy swap after buying one on ebay. While doing that job, you'll see the guts of the door and if one of the levers is caught up on something or bent, then perhaps it's not engaging the rod to push the lock up at all. Mine (driver side) was stuck to the point where I couldn't manually push it down either. When you get the actuator assembly out, it has all the rods attached and you can easily see where something might be stuck. Mine had a ton of grease buildup in the little groove where something was supposed to spin for the lock rod to glide up and down. Disassembled it and cleaned it with brake cleaner then some teflon grease up and back together.
Here's a good link for what I did.

If you can hear the actuator trying (clicking/shuddering) when you use the remote, then the actuator's probably fried. If you can't hear anything happen, then it could be the remote not linking up with the locks somehow. Actuators are common with hondas so I'd assume that, but hey who knows. But you're saying the cylinders also don't engage the locks?
If I use the unlock lever on the driver's door, the left two door locks stick. I can hear the motor trying to unlock. It even moves a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That sounds like an actuator problem. Mine sounded like that. One thing is if the driver actuators shot then the rest will not open. I think the driver's door has to go first
 

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Yes I did prepare for that, he will charge 89 per lock to rekey. The rekeying set was 80 online, so it's only minimally saving to do it myself. I actually bought new cylinders (suprisingly cheap) on ebay and was going to give those to him then I don't have to rush to install them. Just getting to the cylinders in the door is a PITA
Ouch! My locksmith charges $20-25 to fix a lock cylinder. It does not involve a rekeying, just disassembly, cleaning, and repairing or replacing any parts.
 
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