I have completed an exhaustive search for information on how to re-attach the rubber "boot" that spans the door to the door jamb, which protects the wiring that passes into the cabin interior on a 2010 model. It seems that the connection to the door involves stretching that end to cover a plastic oval and then somehow inserting both back in to the door jamb. Has anyone ever done this? Anyone have advice based on actual experience? I have the maintenance manual and it doesn't show the connections or how to address this problem. I believe that many of the recent CR-v models have the same type of boot and attachment so year isn't as important. I don't mind removing the door but would like a plan of action before I jump the gun... Any and all help is much appreciated!
It’s not actually the door panel, but the black rubber boot that protects the wiring between the door and the door jamb. The round “connection” on the outside of the door can be pushed back in, but the other side that attaches to the car looks like it stretches around an oval plastic piece and then MAY be pushed back into the door jamb...there is about zero space between the edge of the door and the car. I’m sure somebody’s run additional wires or taken the connectors apart and worked on wiring, just curious to know if there’s a trick to re-attaching the protective boot without removing the door...
I have a 2008 and I have the manual for it. And yup I can't find anything about how to deal with the wiring grommet for the doors. I'd say you're right and that Honda designed most of those grommets in a similar fashion. I have a 2005 and when I ran wiring for a backup camera I unhooked the wiring boot for the back tailgate. Comparing that grommet to what I can see of the 2008's front door grommet I'd say they look similar. Also, the wiring grommet for the 2008's back doors looks like a small version of the front door's...and the ones on the back doors are easier to see.
Anyway, on the 2005 the ends are solid rubber. The ends are kind of a round dome. Then there is a thin channel where the sheetmetal of the door frame would go, and then there's a big squared off rubber block, which is what stays on the outside. I remember it was hard to get the "donut" end back into the hole. Two things helped, some dish soap and to start by inserting the side furthest away first so I could push on the part I could get at.
Here's what the back door grommet looks like on my 2005. The car body is on the left, the door is on the right. On the right side you can kinda see the groove the sheetmetal needs to go into. The left side had the same sort of groove.
I'm new here but not new to Honda's. We just picked up a 2012 Acura TL. Which means my Integra will finally get the B20 Vtec put into it. Today I decided to take the audio crap out of the Integra and put it in my CRV. I will be driving the CRV mostly and the Integra is way loud after I put a...
I've had my A129 installed via hardwire kit for the past year but have been having problems with it starting with the car. About 40% of the time the camera does not start up when the car is started. It always turns off though. The camera can be started when the car is off. The ACC wire is...
I have a 2015 Honda CRV. I have a 3-Way Component Speaker setup (MB Quart) that I want to use in the Front Doors. I have the factory tweeters and lower panel door speakers. I am thinking about putting the midrange in the driver and passenger door, directly in front of the interior door handles...
Hello,
I have tried to plug my phone (Galaxy S9) to a HDMI port on my 2015 CRV and the screen only shows 1/3 of my phone screen. How can I resolve this problem?
Thank you
Hi everyone,
I suppose by now, most folks on here that have been unhappy with the OEM sound system have done some replacements?
A bunch of months ago, I bought some Morel component speakers to replace the front speakers. I’m just getting around to installing them.
To start out, I thought I...
JRenner · updated sugarchrist · updated
