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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, got a 1997 crv and have the classic my wires going to the door ain't good. But, the wires seem ok and there seems to have been a prior soldering job. I have a multimeter reading either 0 or just over 0 on all but one of the pins on the harness. I originally thought it was just the window motor but it's not, and then noticed the speaker is out so skipped to this. Not sure what to check considering no wires wanna come out even with effort from the harness and I see no brakes or bad connections. I attached a pic of how I'm checking, all of them are 0, this much shown, or just under 12(one pin reads 11.something)
 

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2001 Crv SE
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Plug it back in and check for power at the window motor when using switch. You can also unplug window motor and power and ground the window motor to basically bench test it. Anything else work on the door? Power lock switch, power mirrors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Plug it back in and check for power at the window motor when using switch. You can also unplug window motor and power and ground the window motor to basically bench test it. Anything else work on the door? Power lock switch, power mirrors?
Plug it back in and check for power at the window motor when using switch. You can also unplug window motor and power and ground the window motor to basically bench test it. Anything else work on the door? Power lock switch, power mirrors?
If I am pressing the door harness in the lock seems to work, not the window or speaker
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Plug it back in and check for power at the window motor when using switch. You can also unplug window motor and power and ground the window motor to basically bench test it. Anything else work on the door? Power lock switch, power mirrors?
Mirror works too
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Think this whole harness is bad or something cuz it basically won't keep a connection, like now the mirror won't move but the lock does
 

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2007 CRV AWD
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Fom what I can tell, you are not the first or only owner of this vehicle.
And there has been a prior issue with the wiring on that connector.
With your meter on Volts, you checked the connector.
Did you operate any switches?
Do you have a schematic of the circuit you are looking at?
Any idea of what to expect on those wires?

Which wires goes to the window motor?
What is expected?
Did you know that some window motors are grounded until the switch is used???
Then it applies power to move the window up or down???
Yes, on the same wire that was, a moment ago, a ground????
Blindly testing will only bring frustration

Usually, the breaks in the wires are between the door and the cabin
It happens because the wires flex the most there.
Could check the wires from the connector to the wires inside the cabin??
Color code. Use Ohm meter setting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fom what I can tell, you are not the first or only owner of this vehicle.
And there has been a prior issue with the wiring on that connector.
With your meter on Volts, you checked the connector.
Did you operate any switches?
Do you have a schematic of the circuit you are looking at?
Any idea of what to expect on those wires?

Which wires goes to the window motor?
What is expected?
Did you know that some window motors are grounded until the switch is used???
Then it applies power to move the window up or down???
Yes, on the same wire that was, a moment ago, a ground????
Blindly testing will only bring frustration

Usually, the breaks in the wires are between the door and the cabin
It happens because the wires flex the most there.
Could check the wires from the connector to the wires inside the cabin??
Color code. Use Ohm meter setting.
ok i was checking with dc on 20v, i should check while flipping the windw switch like you said, dont think i did that. the wires all seem to be connected, even though an ok prior solder job has been done on about 5 or so wires
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i'm just looking at the diagram that shows which pins go to what on the harness coming from the car that plugs into the door
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i seem to have to shove the harness in good and unplug and plug a couple times to get a good connection for the mirror and locks to operate also
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
would i be better off getting a whole new door jam harness? idk if i have an issue with the femail or male though
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
theres a 1998 and a 2000 crv at 2 junkyards i can drive to, would the wiring be the same?
 

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1999 CRV Lx
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Finding that the PO had indeed soldered the wires is proof that the wires are wasted.
Buying a wiring from yunkyard sounds good but only if you get one that is "good" .
Same year vehicle is almost just as worked out as yours.
You need to test all of those soldered joints(that's where I would start).
Find out which cable goes to what and test on the cabin side as well.. As AVISITOR pointed out.
Where are the soldered joints located? Inside door or cabin side?
 

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2007 CRV AWD
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i seem to have to shove the harness in good and unplug and plug a couple times to get a good connection for the mirror and locks to operate also
If you are just moving the connector in and out to make good connection then it may be a pin fitment issue? Usually if it is a pin fitment issue, it means the female end has it pins spread apart so far that it does not make good contact. If, however, you are moving the whole harness then it could affect the rest of the wires (not knowing where the break in connection resides)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Finding that the PO had indeed soldered the wires is proof that the wires are wasted.
Buying a wiring from yunkyard sounds good but only if you get one that is "good" .
Same year vehicle is almost just as worked out as yours.
You need to test all of those soldered joints(that's where I would start).
Find out which cable goes to what and test on the cabin side as well.. As AVISITOR pointed out.
Where are the soldered joints located? Inside door or cabin side?
so the soldered joints are to the door jam harness, the plug coming from the car that plugs into the door, the soldering looks honestly not bad but i am seeing soldering in a car actually isnt good to do...? i have done it for the lighting on my dirtbikes so didnt know that its bad. there is a guy who sells the whole replacement harness already pinned up and you just connect the wires after cutting the old harness/plug off that i might ant to just invest in
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Finding that the PO had indeed soldered the wires is proof that the wires are wasted.
Buying a wiring from yunkyard sounds good but only if you get one that is "good" .
Same year vehicle is almost just as worked out as yours.
You need to test all of those soldered joints(that's where I would start).
Find out which cable goes to what and test on the cabin side as well.. As AVISITOR pointed out.
Where are the soldered joints located? Inside door or cabin side?
also, what do you man test on the cabin side, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i may also try cutting out the solder and crimping , assuming yall think soldering may be a culprit
 
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