[Fibber2]

No opinions?

Further research:

It doesn't look like the Rigid R3-0508 is a popular choice, and at $149 from Amazon it's a bit on the more expensive side. But I do like the 'square tube' look.

The Cequent brand 'triplets' can be had as the Reese Towpower 44675 / Draw-Tite 75742 / Hidden Hitch 87621. The price leader of the three is the Draw-Tite, currently $91 on Amazon. A nice feature is a welded bracket off to the side for attachment of your trailer wiring harness. Reviews on Amazon have been very positive.

The Curt unit is about $20 more ($110). It looks like it's swept back and a bit more visible in the rear due to the curved rather than "V" assembly. Some reported more difficulty working with the under panel (because it resides further rearward?).

Installation comments include beware of a lot of rust on the twin threaded holes above the exhaust (chase with a 10mm x 1.25 tap).

Looking like it's going to be the Draw-tite unless I find something new....

 

[mcmillonbe]

I have installed 3 Draw-Tite hitches over the past five years. The installation is straight forward but helps to have someone to help with positioning of the nuts and bolts(large floor jack works well too). Ground clearance shouldn't be compromised too much, it was never an issue with my 15 Forester XT, but with my Honda Fit and newly acquired 17 Mazda 3, I scrape the hitch occasionally on very steep driveway entrances.
I chose the Draw Tite because I do not have to use straps(unlike the Curt) when I carry my bikes. After awhile, I forget that I even have a hitch on my cars, but they are useful and well worth the initial investment.

 

[rocky]

Good pictures of Curt and drawtite on the www.etrailer.com site.

 

[Fibber2]

Thanks for the feedback. I like the sweep of the Cequent units. They are a little less visible than the Curt unit's I seen. Too bad nobody makes a 'tucked up behind the bumper' style like the Torklift brand hitches.

Last week I placed an order for the Draw-Tite 75742 from etrailer.com, and downloaded many of their photos and some comments - particularly on preparation of the underpanel for best fit and max continued protection. The CRV lives with my daughter near Rochester, NY, so rust is an issue. She wants a bike rack, and I hate those strap-on jobs to the tailgate.

I called etrailer and they matched the best price I could find, with free shipping and no tax, so it was extremely economical too.

 

[Fibber2]

I'm sure plenty of people have installed these and done write-up's, so I'll just include a few observations and a couple of pictures when I get a chance to retrieve them from my phone.

Overall, I'm pleased, but it took a lot longer than I anticipated. Not as long as my Odyssey or Subaru, but longer than my previous Sienna. I'll be doing the new Sienna next week. If you ran into the issues I had, better carve out 2-3 hours.

eTrailer was a delight to deal with. They price matched, the unit was well protected in the box, and on my doorstep in a few days. Good videos and pix on their site, so I didn't take many as I worked.

1) I chocked the front tires and lifted the rear with a combo of a rolling service jack (rolled into place in front of the rear tires), and two jack stands. Safety first, kids!

2) Best tool investment: Lisle 38350 Exhaust hanger pliers. A little spray lube and this tool made removal of the two isolation mounts a 30 second and pain-free job. When you drop the muffler the mid-pipe / muffler doughnut gasket takes some abuse. Don't move it more than necessary, or you may end up having to change that seal next!

3) For a 4+ year old vehicle (two winters in the Rochester, NY area), there was a lot of rust. The drivers side frame bolt holes weren't too bad, being protected. The exposed muffler side could not have been worked without needed to be chased by a tap. The exhaust side is a bit tough due to the limited clearance even with the muffler resting on the suspension. A flat tap handle is a must, as there's no room for a "T". And of course I made my life tougher being that I cleaned out the front/center set instead of the center/rear set on the first round!! Idiot.....

4) It's a "fairly" light hitch, and I bench pressed it into place and bolted it in by myself. Even with the two spacer washers in the rear, the receiver presses up against the bumper. Good in that the assembly gives maximum ground clearance, bad in that the undercover no longer fits as it should.

5) The undercover is a PITA, as it wraps up into the left fender well, and with the hitch in place it's even harder to flex it back into place. Fortunately it was near 90' F yesterday, so the plastic was very soft and pliable. Don't even think of doing this on a cold day. I measured carefully and cut the smallest of possible channels for the hitch support to pass thru. It took a bare minimum of black Gorilla tape to seal it again. I actually had to drill a 1/4" hole and add one more plastic push retainer to attach the free end to the bumper, as the tube of the hitch pushes it up and it no longer came close to fitting. I didn't want it to become a dirt collection spot (there was a pound of crud on the diaper and bumper lip as it is).

6) I didn't do lights as this was just for my kid to tote around bikes without having to use a tailgate strap-on rack.

It looks good in place, and is 'rearward' enough that any of our bike racks should mount up fine without some of the issues I have with the Subaru.