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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Morning folks…

My abs light is on (along with TAS VAS and CMBS) and ive had it plugged in to a reader and the fault is coming up with the left rear sensor open/short to ground.

Now, i’ve looked at the sensor wiring, (I’ve just bought the car) and the sensor looks new. So I’m thinking perhaps theres a fault with the wiring further up the line.. I should add that the pins on the new sensor look okay, as you’d expect

So, how do i test it with a multimeter to see if there is power getting to the join where the sensor plugs in to the wiring just back from the wheel up near the body of the car. I’ll not very good with electrics.. so yeh… pointers please!

Should there be voltage coming down the wiring with the car ignition on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So I’ve had a look on YouTube and I’ve managed to test resistance of the sensor and both rear sensors are reading about 750ohms, trying to test for ac but neither are registering a voltage when I turn the hub, so.....

Are the sensors active or passive sensors and why would I not get an ac voltage when testing the sensors? Is it because they are active sensors and maybe they need voltage from the car?

So yeh are they active or passive and does anyone know the working resistance range of the sensors? Thanks
 

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2007 CRV AWD
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Is this a Japan made vehicle or one made in the UK or USA?
Each requires an ABS sensor made for that type of vehicle

Testing for AC voltage?
Is the wheel spinning?
Is it two wire or three wire sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Is this a Japan made vehicle or one made in the UK or USA?
Each requires an ABS sensor made for that type of vehicle

Testing for AC voltage?
Is the wheel spinning?
Is it two wire or three wire sensor?
It’s a uk car…2007 3rd gen… its a two wire sensor…and when checking for voltage I’m setting ac on multimeter and spinning the wheel… no voltage… nothing.
 

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2009 CR-V EX-L (no NAVI)
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Whilst working on faulty abs sensor issues I removed the whole caliper assembly including the carrier… a while later i noticed these thin spacers on the floor… are these from the carrier? On one side i only found 1, the other side there were two…. Do they fit on to the inside of the carrier…pics to help..

View attachment 157792
On the inside, as shown in pic 2.
Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
On the inside, as shown in pic 2.
Cheers!
Are they needed? I’ll need to find a spare one…

It’s a uk car…2007 3rd gen… its a two wire sensor…and when checking for voltage I’m setting ac on multimeter and spinning the wheel… no voltage… nothing.
Is this a Japan made vehicle or one made in the UK or USA?
Each requires an ABS sensor made for that type of vehicle

Testing for AC voltage?
Is the wheel spinning?
Is it two wire or three wire sensor?
It’s a uk car…2007 3rd gen… its a two wire sensor…and when checking for voltage I’m setting ac on multimeter and spinning the wheel… no voltage… nothing.

Not sure whats going on with this thread, I thought id started another thread titled caliper carrier spacer… but it seems to have put itself in to this thread? Admin? Can you help, thanks
 

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The. Admin. Istrator.
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I merged to this thread due to overlapping content of your work in progress 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I merged to this thread due to overlapping content of your work in progress 👍
Okay, but they are different issues? And when someone searches the forum in the future it wont make any sense and they may not find what they are looking for. I dont think I’ll get the response to the electrical issues that I’m trying to get to the bottom of either as the thread goes on a tangent?
 

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The. Admin. Istrator.
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Many users dont use the search feature properly, if at all anyway!

Start a separate thread again if you so prefer and I'll remove the references from this one 👌
 
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It’s a uk car…2007 3rd gen… its a two wire sensor…and when checking for voltage I’m setting ac on multimeter and spinning the wheel… no voltage… nothing.

It’s a uk car…2007 3rd gen… its a two wire sensor…and when checking for voltage I’m setting ac on multimeter and spinning the wheel… no voltage… nothing.
For AC meter to read volts then would guess the wheel would need to be spinning very fast?
And voltage would be small.
If nothing at all then either tone ring (wheel bearing) or sensor is faulty?
Would check with someone who knows more than I do. Second opinion.

Personally, I have never had any luck replacing the wheel speed sensor.
The thing gets rusted in there. Either the bolt that holds it in there is so rusted that the head breaks off and/or the bolt just will not come out. Heat helps but need to be careful. Then the ABS sensor itself is so rusted in that it does not budge. I end up drilling the sensor out in pieces. For my 2007 CRV, Japan made, I bought cheap ABS sensor for Japan made. Worked. This was when I replaced the wheel bearing. During the process of taking out the wheel bearing, I broken the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
For AC meter to read volts then would guess the wheel would need to be spinning very fast?
And voltage would be small.
If nothing at all then either tone ring (wheel bearing) or sensor is faulty?
Would check with someone who knows more than I do. Second opinion.

Personally, I have never had any luck replacing the wheel speed sensor.
The thing gets rusted in there. Either the bolt that holds it in there is so rusted that the head breaks off and/or the bolt just will not come out. Heat helps but need to be careful. Then the ABS sensor itself is so rusted in that it does not budge. I end up drilling the sensor out in pieces. For my 2007 CRV, Japan made, I bought cheap ABS sensor for Japan made. Worked. This was when I replaced the wheel bearing. During the process of taking out the wheel bearing, I broken the sensor.
I watched a YouTube video where the guys turns the hub, aye just by hand so not fast and that was enough the register ac voltage, 0.1 to 0.2, but enough to see something.. the one that the fault code reader showed as faulty (open sort to ground) is the newest on the car So it may actually be okay to remove. What i cant work out is why I’m not getting anything, and i tried on the other rear side, same.

And also why am i not getting any sign of voltage from the harness, with either the power off or power/ignition on and or the car running. The only thing i can think is that I’m not getting a ground on the rear subframe with one of the leads from the multimeter.. (my leads aren’t long enough to reach battery negative)

I may try taking both sensors out and swapping them over on the rear, I’m assuming they aren’t sided? And see if the fault follows the sensor..
 

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For better information, would down load the service manual.
Courtesy of Carbuff2 link is provided

Might help??
Sensor is new but ABS light is on? Would suspect it may not be the right one for the vehicle??
No way to know if it is or not. Check your vin number to make sure where vehicle was made
Then check auto parts stores for correct ABS sensor. or Go to Honda for correct part.
I believe left and right sensors are specific for that particular side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeh, not sure what has gone on before with the car.. but sensor looks newish… seller didn’t mention it being new, and indeed he thought maybe the fault was with the right rear not the left, but i suspect he was just guessing, but perhaps the left new looking sensor has been on the car for a couple of years.. I think Honda will be over £200 for just one new sensor… I’ll have a look through the service manual and see if that sheds any light on what is going on. Thanks
 

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Yeh, not sure what has gone on before with the car.. but sensor looks newish… seller didn’t mention it being new, and indeed he thought maybe the fault was with the right rear not the left, but i suspect he was just guessing, but perhaps the left new looking sensor has been on the car for a couple of years.. I think Honda will be over £200 for just one new sensor… I’ll have a look through the service manual and see if that sheds any light on what is going on. Thanks
I bought an ABS sensor for my gen three off eBay for £20 as my dashboard was lit up like a Christmas tree ABS/VSA/TPM engine light etc
But be aware 9 times out of ten they are a pig to remove due to corrosion
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I bought an ABS sensor for my gen three off eBay for £20 as my dashboard was lit up like a Christmas tree ABS/VSA/TPM engine light etc
But be aware 9 times out of ten they are a pig to remove due to corrosion
I don’t think this one will be too hard to remove as it looks fairly new. Although I’m now thinking that it may not be the sensor and it could be the loom to it. I need to do some wiring checks from the module end for continuity checks.

Quick question… are the sensors sided on this 3rd generation of the crv? I could try swapping the sensors over on the rear to see if the fault follows..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Did some wiring harness checks today… continuity checks were fine on right rear, (pins 15 and 16 in the harness connector at the control module) still need to do the left rear harness.. Short to ground didn’t produce any voltage (good) and then did short to live and that produced 4.5v for both wires in the right rear, which I think is a healthy sign…??

so i removed the sensor fro the knuckle, came out no bother, all looked fine, surfaces nice and clean for contacting, and the part number was the correct one 50470 I think it was..

So I am now suspecting the left rear… the sensor looked older, the 10mm bolt came out fine but on closer inspection the sensor wasn’t sitting flush with the knuckle, and when i tried to remove it, it became apparent that it was pretty corroded inside, and the small gap where it wasn’t sitting flush would have been letting in moisture for sure.. So I’m in the process of drill it out at the moment, got most of it out, just the last small bit that i need to try and get out.

I’ll order up a left side sensor in the meantime. Will get some wiring checks done on the left rear harness also..
Will report back, hopefully tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Right well, I’ve now checked the left rear harness for continuity and that was fine and then i checked for short to ground, fine, and then short to live, and got 0.2v per wire, which I wasn’t expecting as when i tested the right rear i got 4.5v. So i checked the right rear again, and this time i got 0.2v for this also. I cant for the life of me work out what ive done differently this time to what i did yesterday! Thought I’d done the same test. But no idea! Any ideas?? Other than that confusing matter, i‘d say the harnesses are probably both fine.

I managed to get the remaining part of the left sensor out of the hole, and now that is ready for a new sensor. I’ve ordered one up and should be with me Wednesday. Once that‘s here I’ll get the car back together and get it plugged back in to fault code reader and see whats what!
 
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