Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is a list of electrical issues that showed up at the same time in our 2002 CRV, 1) Interior dome lights stopped working, 2) intermittent wipers, 3)the dash brake light stays on, 4) master lock button on drivers door does nothing, 5) keyless entry will not lock or unlock any doors and panic button does not activate horn. I have checked the door jamb switches and they are working. the e brake switch was checked, I also changed the master cylinder, rotors, pads and calipers. Took the drivers door apart and found no power to the master lock switch or the lock actuator. Could all these issues have a common cause since they seemed to show up at once? Yes all the fuses were checked. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
Have you tried a different remote or put a new battery in the remote?
Have you checked the bulb in the dome light? or lights? or the power to them when you take the bulb out?
Did you check the fuses by sight only or with a meter or substitution?
You changed the master cylinder, rotors, pads and calipers after all these electrical issues appeared?
Usually multiple things happen when the battery is not fully charged,weak or if the battery connectors are all corroded.
Check the two main grounding straps: One from the battery neg to the frame near the radiator, and one from the frame near the radiator to the engine.
However, I don't believe those would cause all your problems.
That dash brake light should be operated by the parking brake or low brake fluid.
You can download a free service manual online, if you search for one or possibly just the electrical diagrams.
Perhaps some of those things that don't work happened earlier and weren't noticed.
Unless a ground got bad somewhere, I don't see how that many items could be powerless, unless the feed to that fuse/relay box is not good.
Hopefully you will find a common cause for some of them and report back what it was.
I will try to find some electricals for the 02 and see if I can find a common area, besides the grounding.
Do the WW return to the Park position when you turn them off?
Do the windshield washers work?
Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
Any chance you did something to the connectors going into the steering column or wheel?
Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full and that the switch in the reservoir is connected and working.
Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
New battery was placed in the key fob. All fuses were checked with test lite and VOM meter. The dome lites have no power in the mode when they should come on when the door is open but work in the always on mode. Battery had 12.4 volts and tested good with battery tester. Yes the brakes were changed after the brake lite came on and they felt spongy. The sponginess went away but not the lite. I also changed the fuse relay block under the hood and cleaned all connections. I am going to clean the grounds today.
After searching the threads I see there is something called a MICU (multiplex integrated control unit) attached to the fuse block under the dash that caused almost identical problems. Thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
Have you checked the fuses in the under the dash fuse/relay box?
Ignition switch controls a lot of functions. How to test properly? You'd have to look that up.

With all those symptoms happening at once, the Integrated Control Unit sure sounds like a common cause or just one of its connectors.
Perhaps that unit got loose in the under the dash fuse relay box,
Beware of any SRS connectors ?

That dash brake light should only come on with the parking brake or low fluid level OR the ABS system, somehow.

Read up on how to bleed the ABS system.

Check all your lights: tail,park,brake, back up, ashtray, glove box, all interior,lic plate,etc and acc sockets ,front and rear to find more
possible common problems which may help narrow down the cause.
ABS bleeding would be a good start for that brake warning light if the switch for the low fluid level is working ok.
I don't have a service manual for a 2002, just the 97-00 one.
If you can find a Service Manual online, it could help you. They come in paper back and .pdf. Pdf files can be downloaded quickly and cheaply, usually $10 or less or free.

Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
The ABS can turn on that dash brake warning light.
But, as you say, it might be a wild goose chase.
There may be more than one cause for all those problems.
He changed the master cylinder, rotors and pads most likely due to that brake warning light and spongy pedal, so perhaps that light is not part of the rest of the problem.
Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
ABS system bled already, brakes not an issue except the dash lite. M/C fluid at max and M/C switch good. All fuses and connectors on under dash fuse block checked. Thought I had it this morning when checking grounds I found the negative battery cable to the engine had broken off. Repaired it and no change. Will continue to chase the grounds just to rule them out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
I just found another electrical diagram.
Will the dome light come on if you open the passenger doors?
According to the diagram I just looked at, the power to the driver's door switch goes through the Integrated Control Module whereas the other door switches don't.
Looking more and more like a loose or corroded plug for the Integrated Control Module, either the module plugging into the fuse/relay box or the connector plugging into the Integrated Control Module. I guess it could also be a faulty Integrated Control Module.
Best of luck. I wish I knew how to copy a page out of a pdf and post it.
It appears the power flow is from the front ceiling light switch to the 'keyless power door lock control unit' directly to the door switches (except for the driver's door switch). The power to the driver's door switch goes from the ceiling light switch to the 'keyless power door lock control unit' to the Integrated Control Unit and then to the driver's door switch.
This is from a 97-00 Honda service manual.
Buffalo4
PS: The neg bat cable ground wire was broken off? Was that from the bat cable connector to the frame or from the frame to the engine? Surprised that didn't cause more problems. I wonder if that could have damaged the Integrated Control Unit or something else?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Dome lites do not function even with all doors open. Charging voltage at 14.45V. Just took apart all the grounds I could find including g301 and cleaned them. The battery cable that was broken came from the - post of the battery to a bracket bolted to the engine. Also cleaned the cable contact point from the - battery to the body. I guess I will be going to the junkyard for a ICU to try next. Also going to go over the connections to the ICU again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
How to take shots of any part of your screen...

I wish I knew how to copy a page out of a pdf and post it.
This software is absolutely wonderful! I like it so much I sent them money after getting to know it for free.

You can designate any area of you screen and save it, or copy it, or print it - as an image. And designate any key to activate it. I use the Pause/Break key.

http://printkey-pro.en.softonic.com/download?ex=SWH-1776.0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
You can try a 'hard' reset as otto888man suggests.
To do it, disconnect at least the neg battery cable connector (preferably both battery cable connectors from the battery) from the battery post, and while it is disconnected connect the battery cables together for around 30 sec (you can use a small jumper wire if they won't touch). This basically drains the capacitors in the system and resets some retained memory. I'm not sure if the ignition key needs to be in the ON position or not while doing this.
Remember the power goes to the front ceiling light (which you says works manually) so you know there is power to the light, then it goes to the 'keyless power lock door control unit' and then it splits off to the three other door switches directly and also to the Integrated Control Unit which then supplies power to the driver's door switch.
So, I guess you need to look at that front ceiling light switch to see if it will allow power out. Still, this is from a 97-00 service manual instead of your yr's.
If it allows power out, then I believe the keyless power door lock control unit is the next in line.
Just theorizing, that's all.
Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Noticed a couple other things the auto up/down for drivers window doesn't work but window will go up and down. No safety buzzers(lights left on, key in ignition etc.) Also hard reset did nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
OK on the new problems about the buzzer. Those also are not getting power.

The auto up/down on the driver's window goes out when you disconnect the battery.
You need to reset it. Look it up as its pretty easy. Something like lower the window all the way and hold the down button for 2 extra seconds and then raise the window fully and hold the up button for around 2 extra seconds. Not sure but you can find it online or in your owner's manual.
Just looked in an 00 owner's manual. Start engine and open window fully, pull up on the windows close switch and hold for 2 seconds after it closes.
Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Got a used MICU at the junk yard for $10 and installed it. Took about 2 hours as it is in a tight spot. It cured all the problems our CRV was having. Thanks for all the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
Now that is GREAT news, jackdog!!!! :D
Buffalo4
PS: Thanks for posting back with the solution. Did you get your driver up/down reset?
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top