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Just a heads up. A few days ago my 2017 developed a check engine warning- Emission System Problem. I couldn’t find anything online to help me figure it out. I thought, here we go with the cap less gas filler because the last time I had it filled the service station attendant had a problem getting the nozzle out for a few seconds. Pulled the negative battery and reset it. Drive the 30 minutes to work the next day nothing. Going home after work the light pops on again. So I make a appointment with the dealer, but in the mean time I go to AutoZone for a free scan. It shows a code P0128 Thermostat Range/ Performance. WHAT No Emission problem? After looking up P0128 and looking at all the causes one is low coolant level. The reservoir tank was at the minimum level so I brought it up to Max, disconnected the battery and low and behold the light hasn’t come on the last round trip from work. If the light comes back on before Saturday I will be going to the dealer, but it doesn’t make sense.
 

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I would be concerned about the low coolant level. Do you have a leak? Do you know if the coolant level was topped off at the last service?
 

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Just a heads up. A few days ago my 2017 developed a check engine warning- Emission System Problem. I couldn’t find anything online to help me figure it out. I thought, here we go with the cap less gas filler because the last time I had it filled the service station attendant had a problem getting the nozzle out for a few seconds. Pulled the negative battery and reset it. Drive the 30 minutes to work the next day nothing. Going home after work the light pops on again. So I make a appointment with the dealer, but in the mean time I go to AutoZone for a free scan. It shows a code P0128 Thermostat Range/ Performance. WHAT No Emission problem? After looking up P0128 and looking at all the causes one is low coolant level. The reservoir tank was at the minimum level so I brought it up to Max, disconnected the battery and low and behold the light hasn’t come on the last round trip from work. If the light comes back on before Saturday I will be going to the dealer, but it doesn’t make sense.
I think you are missing the meaning of that code and how to clear it. A P0128 means the car is not warming up at the expected rate. Also, you don't seem to understand what the Min and Max markings mean on the reservoir tank.

Cooling system class 101:
The "recovery" tank is to allow coolant to expand and contract so that we aren't dumping out coolant when the engine gets warm and then sucking air back in when it cools down. When the engine is cold the level of the coolant in the tank should be at the "Min" mark. This gives the tank room to accept addition coolant that flows in during normal engine heating up. As the car then cools back down the engine can draw this extra coolant back into the engine and not suck in air (bad to have oxygen in the cooling tank...very bad). If you fill the tank to "Max" when is cold then the tank may well overflow the next time the coolant heats up and does it normal expansion. Makes a mess in your garage floor and it can kill your pets!

Codes and clearing them:
As I stated before, the code you have is telling you that the engine control unit thinks the engine is not warming up as fast as it should. Internally the computer monitor engine load and time and knows how quickly the temperature should be rising based on how the car is being driven. If the engine is not reaching target temperatures in the expected time period then there is likely a problem such as a bad thermostat that is not allowing the engine to get up to proper operating temps in a normal time period. The most common cause of this is a thermostat that is not closely properly or is opening too quickly. Of course it could be a faulty tempature sensor also. There are other causes. This needs fixed for several reasons. Emissions controls and fuel control needs a engine at a certain temp. Lower than normal temps will cause excessive fuel consumption, higher emissions and will cause your heater to not heat the car well next Winter. Also, if it is the temperature sensor and its giving false data to the computer fuel control can be way off.

Disconnecting battery to clear codes:
Sorry, that doesn't work and hasn't since the mid 1990's. Trouble codes are stored in a area of the computer that retains them even if power is removed. (Part of OBD 2 requirements since 1996) This is for your protection as the car has stored not only the problem but the driving conditions under which the code was set. This information will give a technician more date to work with when he or she goes to repair the problem. The computer is trying to help fix the car, please don't try to defeat its purpose. OBD 2 was one of the greatest aides for technicians in my working lifetime. All that nice data makes it so much easier to locate the root problem.

Your car is under warranty. Take it in and let them fix it for you for free. And please, learn how a cooling system works so you don't overfill that tank and make a mess in your garage floor!
 

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Apologize for resurrecting an old thread again.
If it's not a right place, MOD please remove my post and I will open a new thread.
Anyway, my V, EX-L 2017 is now having "Emission System Problem" displayed on the dashboard.
Actually, it has been on for about a week already.
Let me provide a short story that leads to this issue (true or not, I don't know)
I've live in northeast, by the end of Dec, I got a letter from Honda forced me to "fix" the "oil dilution" issue or whatever that was.
As noted in my other posts, I didn't smell any gas (hence I assume I didn't have issue with oil) but in fact, it took about 3' to warm up (by warm up I meant the fan started blowing, it's far from warm in cold winter night).
Nonetherless, I brought my V in for service per letter.
What I got after the service was it now took 5' to warm up. It seems getting worse :( ???
Anyway, that's really not an issue for me since I dress warm.
The problem now is just almost two months out, the Emission System Problem is popping up and staying there.
Before I spend money to get it fixed, I want to ask for any feedback or suggestions from you guys.
What is the best way to fix it?
Should I go to Honda dealer or any local shop?

TIA.
 

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Apologize for resurrecting an old thread again.
If it's not a right place, MOD please remove my post and I will open a new thread.
Anyway, my V, EX-L 2017 is now having "Emission System Problem" displayed on the dashboard.
Actually, it has been on for about a week already.
Let me provide a short story that leads to this issue (true or not, I don't know)
I've live in northeast, by the end of Dec, I got a letter from Honda forced me to "fix" the "oil dilution" issue or whatever that was.
As noted in my other posts, I didn't smell any gas (hence I assume I didn't have issue with oil) but in fact, it took about 3' to warm up (by warm up I meant the fan started blowing, it's far from warm in cold winter night).
Nonetherless, I brought my V in for service per letter.
What I got after the service was it now took 5' to warm up. It seems getting worse :( ???
Anyway, that's really not an issue for me since I dress warm.
The problem now is just almost two months out, the Emission System Problem is popping up and staying there.
Before I spend money to get it fixed, I want to ask for any feedback or suggestions from you guys.
What is the best way to fix it?
Should I go to Honda dealer or any local shop?

TIA.
How many miles on your CR-V? The emissions warranty may still be in effect, (depending where you live and current mileage). The car should be taken to a dealer for warranty repair. It may be covered for 3 years 36,000 miles or much longer. For example, Calif has up to 7 years and 70,000 miles I believe, and many states follow CA emissions laws.
 

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How many miles on your CR-V? The emissions warranty may still be in effect, (depending where you live and current mileage). The car should be taken to a dealer for warranty repair. It may be covered for 3 years 36,000 miles or much longer. For example, Calif has up to 7 years and 70,000 miles I believe, and many states follow CA emissions laws.
This sounds good, JB
I'll bring the V in and see what happens next.
Anyway, my V has <27k on it and it's a little more than 2 years old.
Thanks again.
 

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Just an update:
I brought my V in 2 days ago.
They ran functional test and it passed with no leak.
They said it was the cap wasn't tight that caused the light to go off.
Anyway, free of charge and everything is back to normal.

Thanks JB for your input.
 

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Just an update:
I brought my V in 2 days ago.
They ran functional test and it passed with no leak.
They said it was the cap wasn't tight that caused the light to go off.
Anyway, free of charge and everything is back to normal.

Thanks JB for your input.
We don't have a gas cap. Am I missing something here?
 

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Just an update:
I brought my V in 2 days ago.
They ran functional test and it passed with no leak.
They said it was the cap wasn't tight that caused the light to go off.
Anyway, free of charge and everything is back to normal.

Thanks JB for your input.
We don't have a gas cap. Am I missing something here?

If the dealer did say it was the gas cap then I'd be smashing heads.
 

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I don't know why and don't want to point a finger to anyone but my guess would be the last time when they did the "oil dilution/ac/heating issue" recall, the tech didn't close it tight.
 

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Southern Jersey Guy, Thanks for your post! I had the exact same issue, took it to the dealer, they wanted $135 and leave it for two hours to diagnose. I said no, found your post, spent $20 on the new engine coolant, and it worked just like you said. You saved me lots of time and money. I’m sure that if I had left it they would have found five other things to spend money on. Thanks!
 

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Glad it worked for you but mine came back on after a week or two. So I took it into the dealer and they discovered it was the thermostat. Seems a little piece of plastic flashing , they guessed from inside the radiator, became lodged in the thermostat keeping it open just enough the trigger the emission light. They replaced the thermostat since it was apart anyway. All good now since the repair.
 

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Just a heads up. A few days ago my 2017 developed a check engine warning- Emission System Problem. I couldn’t find anything online to help me figure it out. I thought, here we go with the cap less gas filler because the last time I had it filled the service station attendant had a problem getting the nozzle out for a few seconds. Pulled the negative battery and reset it. Drive the 30 minutes to work the next day nothing. Going home after work the light pops on again. So I make a appointment with the dealer, but in the mean time I go to AutoZone for a free scan. It shows a code P0128 Thermostat Range/ Performance. WHAT No Emission problem? After looking up P0128 and looking at all the causes one is low coolant level. The reservoir tank was at the minimum level so I brought it up to Max, disconnected the battery and low and behold the light hasn’t come on the last round trip from work. If the light comes back on before Saturday I will be going to the dealer, but it doesn’t make sense.
Just a heads up to you. I brought my 2017 CRV with the same 'Emissions System Problem' light to my dealership, still under warranty, just to be charged $112 for the diagnostic test to be run. Couldn't really find a problem, told me it was an intermittent thing. Didn't seem right that I should have been charged anything.
 
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