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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a question on a 2003 CRV that I bought around June. It had just a little over 100k miles. The car ran great with no issues when I first got it. After a few weeks the engine light came on. I started to leave work and it ran rough and didn't have the best power. I had it towed and repaired. The place said it was a coil pack. About a month later the light came on again and the place said it was two other coil packs and suggested I replace the last one. I also had to have the seal replaced in the back of the engine.

This week the light came on again so I stopped at a parts store. They ran the codes and said to replace the spark plugs. I got the best they had and plan to put them on this weekend. This afternoon it did it again. This time I had my code reader so I got the codes. The codes were p0302 p00303 p0300, There were six codes and I think these were coded twice.

This is what happens. I will start it and it doesn't start the smoothest but its not a bad, rough start. After it starts it runs fine. I can get it up to 70 on the highway and it accelerates fast like there is no issue. If it wasn't for the light I really wouldn't notice any issues. After all the coil packs have been replaced a while back it runs fine, the first time the light came on it wasn't running good, like a spark plug is off. But since all of the coil packs have been replaced it has not had any issue other than it not being the smoothest sometimes starting. But most of the time it starts smooth.

If it does it again what should I look at next. All coil packs and spark plugs are new as of tomorrow. If it is a odd issue hard to find will it be bad to drive it. I am hoping to make this last until next Christmas but I drive 400 miles a week so I hope it makes it without a bunch of service. If it keeps this up and gets worse I may trade it in for a newer auto .
 

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The codes you are getting are engine misfire codes, if you change the plugs use the original NGK plugs laser iridium IZFR6K11. Stock # 6994. At your mileage it is time for the valves to be adjusted, don,t ignore the valve adjustment. If you burn an exhaust valve it will cost $$$$
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will need to get the oil change before too long. I may make a appointment at the dealership and have them to do the recall on the airbags,change the oil, adjust the valves and look the car over for any issues.
Thanks for the reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just checked the plugs and they are the original NGK plugs laser iridium IZFR6K11. I will see about getting it set up to have the valves adjusted. After the trouble this car has been I don't know if I will ever get a honda product again.
 

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After the trouble this car has been I don't know if I will ever get a honda product again.
You are 'dissed at Honda because scheduled maintenance hadn't been done? :rolleyes:



Valve check/adjustment is called for every 100K miles or six years. Same with spark plugs.

If you don't have service records, I'd recommend checking the cabin and engine air filters, and flushing the brake fluid.

Manual trans fluid needs to be done every 30 - 40K miles. Same with ATF (but if you don't have service records, ATF should be drained 3x to assure it's completely 'fresh'. After that, a drain & fill at 30K is all that is needed.)

Oh, and find an independent Honda service specialist to perform your maintenance. That will save you substantially over dealer prices.




After that, you will be loving the CR-V. It won't cost you much to run for another 100K miles...
 

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After the trouble this car has been I don't know if I will ever get a honda product again.
Really, its a 12yrs old and had over 100,000 miles on it bought used. No maintainance history that has been spoken of in here.

I think you should expect some issues. No car is perfect at over 10yrs old and 100,000 miles plus.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I don't expect it to be perfect by no means. What has ticked me off is it has been in the shop 3 different times ,2 of them for this issue in about 3 months I had it. I am ok with paying for it to be fixed. What has ticked me off is 2 times in the shop for this same issue and it is still doing it. I tell them to do whatever maintainence it needs in the book. Sadly the thing I have found is that in this area this is the best shop around. So now I am having to work on it myself which I didn't want to so I can get it to run. I had other brands of cars that ran great with no major issues at 200k. At the rate this thing is eating up money if it continues I will get rid of it and go with another brand. I may go with a newer one 5 years or less and less than 50k from the dealership we got my wifes from. We got hers a few years ago and have never had the first issue.

I don't care if one is new ,fancy or has a few dents or dings. What I do want is one I can count on. So far this thing stresses me every time I get out in it because I don't know if it is going to act up. I drive about 400 miles a week to go back and forth to work. If the vehicle winds up going into the shop each month I need something else. My last car would go a year or longer before I needed any work that wasn't repular maintainence. The one before that was somewhat of a lemon. The one before that had good service as well. I bought this Honda because I heard folks say they are good running cars and run forever. But if this continues I won't be saying that. I am getting ready to change the plugs. so hopefully that will help.
 

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I would bet the misfires don't go away until the valves are adjusted . The exhaust valves tend to get tighter as the miles go by. If they become too tight the first sign will be misfires and if not taken care of the valves won't close completly and the result is burned valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I changed the plugs out. It did seem to do better. One thing I did notice is that the nuts that held the plastic cover on and the other two bolts that went through that cover on and held the coil packs were loose. One of the nuts in the back was missing, it had it when I got it. I could loosen then with my hand they were so loose. The plugs looked used but probably were not extremely old. Probably was done to manufacters mileage replacement specs. Better safe than sorry so I put the new ones in. I don't want to tackle the valve adjustment so I will look around in the town where I work at and also the town next to the town where I live. I think I am just frustrated with the car place I took it to. I asked them to do any thing it might need at its miles when they changed the coil packs and all they did was the coil packs. A lot has changed on these from when I would tackle the big stuff. I really like this car and planned to keep it for a few years hopefully I can find someone that I won't have to go back behind them and fix it. One time I took my truck to a fellow and asked him to replace all the hoses. It would sputter like a air leak. Come to find out he was using it driving it around town giving me excuses. When I got it back no hoses were changed but something else was changed,it still sputtered. I found a hose that had been rubbing the engine and replaced it . It ran good after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
From your explaination, dont be made at the vehicle, be mad at incompetent mechanics.
Yep. I asked them to look it over good and do any maintainence it might need when I had the coil pacs. I have told them in the past that if anything looks to be a issue or if it needs to be done then by all means do it. I have told him I am fine with paying more if it has a issue that I know of and if it needs something done at its mileage they don't do it. I would be fine to pay for more hours of work than have this thing continue to act up.

My wife and I have to take care of her mom who is close to 90. We have been dealing with my mom who is a widow as well. Then my wife has had heart issues and a hart attack in the past so I do not need a car causing all kinds of weekly issues. I do plan to find someone to adjust the valves. What is the usual charge on this or the hours it takes? Around here labor is a lot cheaper than a big city like say Atlanta. Mainly to give me an idea of cost.
 

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A valve adjustment takes me 2 - 3 hours and I'm just a shadetree mechanic. I am also very anal...(cleaning everything I touch).

:rolleyes:

I have not needed to replace any valve cover gaskets either...Honda gaskets (and their machined mating surfaces) are THAT well made.

:cool:
 
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