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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my CR-V recently, a 2005 model with low mileage. Recently it's started doing something worrisome:

- it surges a little when changing gears, as if the revs aren't matched during the shift like normal
- when stopped in Drive, it lurches and surges and won't idle smoothly
- the idle revs are high in Park or Neutral, at 1500, instead of the usual ~700

If I turn it off for a few minutes, it'll usually go back to normal, and the engine light will turn off a few hours or a day later.

I would love to know if anyone has seen this before, or can suggest anything that might cause the problem.
 

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If it's really low mileage it sounds like it might not have been serviced on a regular basis.
If you don't know when fluids have been changed ie oil, trans, brake, I'd start there to set a baseline, then give it a tuneup and see how it reacts to that.
 

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Seeing that it has the Engine Light on, is enough to tell me to get it to the garage before something expensive happens, that could have been avoided.
 

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Get the code/codes read that it is throwing. That is trying to tell you what is wrong rather than us trying to speculate. With the codes, people of the forum should be able to help you out much better as currently we can only make guesses.

How many miles on it? Auto or manual? AWD or FWD?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys, it's scheduled for a service today. The previous owner apparently did his own servicing, so I'm taking it to a dealer with a request for them to check it over and tell me where it's actually at.

It has 35,000 miles (55,000km) on it. Automatic, with that tricky 2WD -> 4WD mechanism.
 

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A dealer will charge you a lot, unless it is under warranty. Go to an auto parts store, etc and get the code(a) read. It may be as simple as cleaning the screen on the IAC (Idle Air Control) which is easy to do yourself, if you are at all mechanically inclined.
The AWD is not tricky at all and about all it ever requires is an ocassional drain and fill of the rear differential. If it is surging while it is changing gears, I would check the Automatic Transmission Fluid level, color and smell ASAP.
If you mean that the rpm is surging while going from D to N or R, then that is different.
There are some good tutorials in this forum for cleaning the IAC and changing the diffy fluid.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I meant tricky in that it's normally 2WD and automagically becomes 4WD when required. If someone asks whether mine's 2 or 4WD, how do I answer? AFAIK in Australia they only made the one I've got, but elsewhere? No idea.

I took it to the dealer so I could get a knowledgeable first overview of the car, and it seems to have paid off. None of the fluids look like they've ever been changed since new. The error code was (and forgive me, I don't have it handy, the car's still in the shop for a couple more hours)a v-tec activation fault. The dirty oil and low levels seem to trigger a problem with the v-tec cam movement (which is oil controlled, they say) so it can't shift the cams and then it freaks out. This explains why it mostly happens on hills.

Mostly the car was good. Needed some overlooked maintenance, but I don't expect there to be any serious hangups.

As for dealer costs... Haha, my last car was a Renault. You wanna talk expensive, I can tell you stories. ;)
 

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Glad you got it figured out one way or another and are on the road to recovery.

The VTEC solenoid is controlled by oil presure. Low and dirty oil will cause problems there. Despite the low mileage, the age of things do also come into play.
 

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I wish they had removable/replaceable filters in important places like transmission or Vtec systems. It would have made it easier to maintain the car.
 

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I wish they had EASILY removable/replaceable filters in important places like transmission or Vtec systems. It would have made it easier to maintain the car.
There, fixed it for you umair. They do have filters on those systems, well, at least the V-Tec, it's called the oil filter.
 

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Thanks Honda4Life, I didn't know that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The dealer specifically mentioned that screen when they were working on my car, and said that gunk could build up on it and foul the system, and said they run clean warm oil backwards through the engine when changing it, to free up any trapped matter and remove it from the system. Interesting technique.

Gonna go up a few hills this morning and see if it's all sorted, but the drive home from the dealer yesterday was much smoother than it was when I took it in. They replaced all the fluids, and wow, it drives so much better. Shifting, steering, everything's smooth! =D
 

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"they run clean warm oil backwards through the engine when changing it" ??????

Anyone else ever heard of this?????

Great idea!! How do they do this?

Anyways NFG, if I were you, I would also change the Diffy fluid with Honda DPF-2 (takes aprox 1.1 qts), do at least one drain and fill of the ATF with Honda DW-1 or equivalent, and do another engine oil change in the next couple of thousand miles (or less) with a new oil filter and synthetic oil (why synthetic, because it cleans better) and it sounds like your engine may need that.
Enjoy your new ride. If you even take minimal care of it, it usually will make you proud!
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've heard of it, but I've never seen it done and couldn't really tell you the details, but yeah. 150 litres of new warm oil run through the system to clean it out thoroughly, then it's drained and new oil put in it as normal. I always use synthetic oils. ^_^

They also did the steering, brake and transmission fluids, but not the rear diff (is that what it's called?) by the look of this invoice.
 

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That running the 'clean warm oil' backwards is only good if the supply galley (ie where the oil comes from when getting to that screen) isn't any where close to the bearings. Otherwise all that 'stuff' is going to go into the bearings which are a lot harder to get thru than that screen is. Know what I mean?
Why wouldn't they just disassemble the solenoid and change the screen or clean it? Is it that buried that it's not 'cost effective' to do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This seems to be their standard procedure. It's not uncommon. I think the goal was more to loosen any cooked-on gunk, not solve my particular v-tec/screen problem.
 

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So have you hill tested it yet?
How's it drive?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It survived the hill test! It wasn't reliably bad before, but I'm very encouraged by the results so far. I'll keep you apprised. =)
 
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