Engine swap 04 5spd crv
Looking at doing an engine swap on my 04 crv 5spd (Japan built vin C ). Planning to use a k24a4 out of a 05 accord.
Anyway reason for the thread, I’m having trouble finding information on pulling an engine mated to a manual, I plan on pulling the engine out the top and cannot tell if I need to pull the engine and trans all together or if I can split the them in the engine bay with enough room to clear the clutch!
secondly, since I am switching from a k24a1 to the k24a4 (I understand the k24a2 is a no go) what do I need to anticipate?
I’m planning on swapping over the oil plan, timing cover, valve cover, intake and exhaust manifolds, is this enough to have a problem free start up?
Any advise on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Anyway reason for the thread, I’m having trouble finding information on pulling an engine mated to a manual, I plan on pulling the engine out the top and cannot tell if I need to pull the engine and trans all together or if I can split the them in the engine bay with enough room to clear the clutch!
secondly, since I am switching from a k24a1 to the k24a4 (I understand the k24a2 is a no go) what do I need to anticipate?
I’m planning on swapping over the oil plan, timing cover, valve cover, intake and exhaust manifolds, is this enough to have a problem free start up?
Any advise on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
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It came out the top no problem but as far as the a4, I’ve learned it is not an easy swap, I’m going to end up having to tune this car for it to run right, had to order a couple of aftermarket adaptors to make all the fittings on the head work right. Long story short a k24a4 is not a “simple” replacement for a k24a1. People on here thought it was as simple as swapping manifolds, timing cover and all the sensors on the motor. I wish that was the case. However! I will make the engine work in the car!
it’s currently bolted back up with most everything reattached, just waiting on the aftermarket adaptors to show up
![137794]()
it’s currently bolted back up with most everything reattached, just waiting on the aftermarket adaptors to show up
<engine hanging on a hoist> Notice the license plate.... fix 128. "fix" being the operative word here. 
Seriously though, will the existing computer work with the new engine? If there are sensors that didn't exist on the old engine, probably not.
Seriously though, will the existing computer work with the new engine? If there are sensors that didn't exist on the old engine, probably not.
what sensors are different on the A4 take a photo and post it,if you remove the oil pressure sending unit the one above the oil filter that operates the oil light be careful when putting the new one back in,people have had a chunk of the block crack off tightening the oil pressure switch ,I had a friend that put a year newer engine in a Ford Crownvic and find out the starter wouldn't bolt up because the transmission would have to be out of the year newer 4.6 ,not saying that's the case on the Honda but make sure the starter and transmission and the CV axle support bracket on the back bolts up the same and motor mounts,it looks like the a4 is close in specs so flashing or replacing the computer is probably not needed ,but you might find a missing bolt hole that can throw a can of worms in to the project
About half of the sensors are the same, some like the crank sensor, one of the cam sensors and the oil pressure actuator that goes in the center of the timing cover are all Different.
the big issue is the coolant ports that the a4 have next to the intake ports towards the back of the motor, also the back of the head is completely different, in the aspect of coolant passage ways and the added egr of course.
the head flows About 20% less air and the vvt actuator that rides on the intake Cam sprocket is different. If I knew this before putting the engine in I would have probably changed the vvt actuator/sprocket but at this point it probably would have needed a tune anyway so I’m not gonna pull it back apart.
Lastly you cannot swap the a1 head onto the a4 block because the a4 pistons have a dome in them that would contact the head.
Like I said before, if I knew all this info before picking up the motor I would have stuck with an a1 motor but I did get this motor cheap enough that it will offset tuning and extras that I’ve needed to get for this to work. It still sucks though
the big issue is the coolant ports that the a4 have next to the intake ports towards the back of the motor, also the back of the head is completely different, in the aspect of coolant passage ways and the added egr of course.
the head flows About 20% less air and the vvt actuator that rides on the intake Cam sprocket is different. If I knew this before putting the engine in I would have probably changed the vvt actuator/sprocket but at this point it probably would have needed a tune anyway so I’m not gonna pull it back apart.
Lastly you cannot swap the a1 head onto the a4 block because the a4 pistons have a dome in them that would contact the head.
Like I said before, if I knew all this info before picking up the motor I would have stuck with an a1 motor but I did get this motor cheap enough that it will offset tuning and extras that I’ve needed to get for this to work. It still sucks though
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