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Discussion Starter #1
2006 Honda CR-V. At some point the rear hatch door lock striker was removed. I've installed the replacement electronic door lock switch assembly in the tailgate, and I have the striker, but there is nothing in the holes in the body for which the screws to fasten. I won't be able to make it to a junkyard to see for myself until Thursday, so thought someone here might know. What am I missing?

Here in the first photo is the striker with one of the screws. The second photo shows the orifice in the body into which the striker is fastened:

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I used a flashlight to look in there and there isn't anything that I can see into which the lock striker bolts/screws can fasten. What am I missing?

Here's the back side of the striker if it means anything:

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Shouldn't there be nuts welded to the inside of the two holes in the body? Or perhaps some kind of threaded part that just sits in there to accept the screws? I looked on a Honda parts diagram and it doesn't show anything like that, though.
 

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There is a little threaded plate that the striker screws into. However when both screws were removed the plate fell down into the frame. Don't know if you pull the trim off you can get access to find and replace the plate. You may have to talk to the dealer about this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hmm...….if there's a piece that fell down that part of the body, perhaps I can fish it out with a magnet. I also have a boroscope to take a look in there. Hopefully I'll find something like that at the bottom. Don't know how to make the threaded plate stay in place once I put the striker on and need to install the screws. Bubble gum?

Thanks for the tip, Traylaw.
 

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The way I take a striker off so I don't lose the backing plate is to loosen the top screw than remove the bottom screw and rotated the striker so I can put the bottom screw back in and tighen it. Then take the top screw out and reinstalled it without the striker. Then reversed the order to put the striker back on. But bubble gum might work.(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My telescoping magnet wouldn't go all the way down since it isn't flexible, but I tried my boroscope. It's a cheapy, but the photo looks to show me that there's nothing down there, so I don't know what happened to whatever type of bracket with threaded nuts which is supposed to be behind the surface onto which the striker rests. See anything down there in these photos? The date stamp is wrong, btw.

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Just 3 days ago I found that mine had only one screw in place. I took out that screw (not knowing about the backer plate) and the backer plate fell down into the abyss. I removed the panel on the side of the car and was able to retrieve it with one of those long flexible magnet things. I also found the second screw in spare tire well while I was at it. So I would say yours is probably in the same spot. Be careful removing the side panel, you have to remove the part in the rear door entry way at the bottom, and you have to remove the cigarette lighter port first or it will be bent like mine - but salvageable. And the panels are brittle and break.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks Brad...….thanks for confirming that there is some sort of plate that fits behind there that is loose and can fall into that space. Problem is that I don't see anything in the boroscope photo I took. Yeah, the picture is kinda grainy since my boroscope is a cheap one, but I wonder if this part of the picture that I have circled in yellow could be that plate/bracket you and Traylaw are talking about? At first it looks like it's part of the frame of the body of the car at that rear left corner, but perhaps the plate fell perfectly into that position? I doubt it. Anyway, do you think this is it in the yellow circle? See below:

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Looking around there are a few similar threads. But none have that "Eureka I fixed it" post. I would have thought a loose plate would have caused a nice rattle back there, if it was still there unless it got stuck.
You have the striker. Looking at Majestic and Bernardi only shows it not the plate it bolts to. Hope you have the other bolt as well.
Hate to break it to you, but its time to start removing interior panels to get to it. Whether its there or not......
 

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Looking around there are a few similar threads. But none have that "Eureka I fixed it" post. I would have thought a loose plate would have caused a nice rattle back there, if it was still there unless it got stuck.
You have the striker. Looking at Majestic and Bernardi only shows it not the plate it bolts to. Hope you have the other bolt as well.
Hate to break it to you, but its time to start removing interior panels to get to it. Whether its there or not......
And as already mentioned there is no backer plate in any parts diagrams I looked at. Possible plate was tack welded and not considered a part, but part of the body ? Also the square holes left behind seem out of place for a backer plate use. More like a thru hole fitting tacked to body.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So, that piece circled in yellow is not it. That's just a part of the chassis body. I used the boroscope again and the angles are a bit weird, like opposite of how it really is, with the 2nd look inside there, I see nothing in the bottom of that space, which makes me think that the piece was removed when the striker was removed and it did not fall down into the space.

I partially removed the inner plastic interior and with the boroscope I took a photo of the back inside of the area with the two holes against which the striker is secured. You can see in the photo below that there is still something there, spot welded to the chassis in between the two holes, and you can see that part of it has been pryed or forced out. Looks like part of it is missing, as there would have to be something attached to this piece of metal that also goes up and down to the two holes so that the screws can fasten.

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Not sure how to remedy this unless someone has some ideas?
 

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That does look busted to me too. Why anyone could / would want to break that is bizarre.

My initial thought is to use brute force fixing, ie, get as large access you can to the backside, and get two nuts in there somehow to Bolt it in. I imagine thin strings to pull nuts into place and long pliers To give backside support. Threadlocker seems like a good idea to add. This sounds like a pain the butt For me with a lot of scrapes on the forearm, pinched fingers and lots of cursing.

here are some random a** ”hack” idea repairs to it... I wouldn’t be happy about it, but it could be faster.

What size / thread pitch are the bolts? You may consider getting those toggle bolt nut flanges to work. I usually see toggle bolts in SAE, but I wonder if the bolt is an M8? Then you could possibly find a 5/16 countersink head and add a 5/16 toggle flange (almost certainly need to drill to enlarge the square holes in the frame to accommodate it).... edit ... I actually see a few metric sized toggle bolts on Amazon... but all are with pan heads, not countersunk, so some additional sourcing of parts would be needed anyway.

Alternatively, maybe consider a riv-nut or cross/plus-nut placed in the square hole? But This might lift the striker plate up by one mm Making it not flush? Would the door still close?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Trip to salvage yard ?
Yes, gonna go tomorrow mid-day.

And as already mentioned there is no backer plate in any parts diagrams I looked at. Possible plate was tack welded and not considered a part, but part of the body ? Also the square holes left behind seem out of place for a backer plate use. More like a thru hole fitting tacked to body.
Correct

My initial thought is to use brute force fixing, ie, get as large access you can to the backside, and get two nuts in there somehow to Bolt it in. I imagine thin strings to pull nuts into place and long pliers To give backside support. Threadlocker seems like a good idea to add. This sounds like a pain the butt For me with a lot of scrapes on the forearm, pinched fingers and lots of cursing.

here are some random a** ”hack” idea repairs to it... I wouldn’t be happy about it, but it could be faster.

What size / thread pitch are the bolts? You may consider getting those toggle bolt nut flanges to work. I usually see toggle bolts in SAE, but I wonder if the bolt is an M8? Then you could possibly find a 5/16 countersink head and add a 5/16 toggle flange (almost certainly need to drill to enlarge the square holes in the frame to accommodate it).... edit ... I actually see a few metric sized toggle bolts on Amazon... but all are with pan heads, not countersunk, so some additional sourcing of parts would be needed anyway.

Alternatively, maybe consider a riv-nut or cross/plus-nut placed in the square hole? But This might lift the striker plate up by one mm Making it not flush? Would the door still close?
The thread size of the mounting screws is M8 x 1.25

If going to the junkyard tomorrow doesn't yield results, I may have to improvise something. I was thinking of getting two nuts and JB welding them to some kind of piece of metal that would fit in there. I could glue the metal piece to the back inside of where those two holes are. Not sure that would work, though.
 

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So, that piece circled in yellow is not it. That's just a part of the chassis body. I used the boroscope again and the angles are a bit weird, like opposite of how it really is, with the 2nd look inside there, I see nothing in the bottom of that space, which makes me think that the piece was removed when the striker was removed and it did not fall down into the space.

I partially removed the inner plastic interior and with the boroscope I took a photo of the back inside of the area with the two holes against which the striker is secured. You can see in the photo below that there is still something there, spot welded to the chassis in between the two holes, and you can see that part of it has been pryed or forced out. Looks like part of it is missing, as there would have to be something attached to this piece of metal that also goes up and down to the two holes so that the screws can fasten.

View attachment 138996


Not sure how to remedy this unless someone has some ideas?
Take the vehicle to a shop. Have them temporarily tack weld the striker in place and check to see if the tailgate latches. If eveything lines up ok finish welding it in place. Was the vehicle in an accident?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Take some pictures in the salvage yard if possible.
Will do.

Take the vehicle to a shop. Have them temporarily tack weld the striker in place and check to see if the tailgate latches. If eveything lines up ok finish welding it in place. Was the vehicle in an accident?
Hmmm......that's an idea. I'll have to consider that.
 
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