1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
I have a 98 CR-V auto, and it started doing something wierd today. I was crawling in traffic, so I'd been in 1st gear for a while, and suddenly the transmission would seem to go into neutral. I tried shifting into 1st and 2nd manually, and it made no difference. When I stopped and restarted the engine, however, the tranny returned to normal right away. As I continued driving, I found that it would happen in any gear, at any speed. The transmission would be fine for a period, then suddenly go to neutral. When I stop the engine, wait 3 seconds, and restart, the transmission would behave like normal, until in decided to go into neutral.
Sound familiar? I've seen 3 posts of this problem is here just today!
Here's what happens:
The 1st Gen CR-V Automatic transmission has an internal all filter and it gets clogged over time. Stuff gets sucked in, blocks the filter, transmission loses oil pressure, clutches disengage. When you stop the engine, the transmission oil pump stops too, the junk falls out, unclogging the filter, and upon restarting, the transmission works normally again, until the junk clogs the filter.
The problem is that you have to remove and disassemble the transmission to replace the Tranny's oil filter. Given that I don't have a spare 2k to spend on a transmission rebuild, I didn't want to do that.
So here's how I fixed it:
CR-V transmissions have oil pressure inspection ports. You pull a plug out, and install an oil pressure gauge, then you operate the engine and transmission and check the oil pressure. There is one port for each of the 5 clutches, and one for the main pressure line. Checking the hydraulic control chart in my service manual, I found the Line port is right after the oil pump, which is right after the filter, and the Line port is right on the top of the transmission, by the lock-up control solenoids.
I figured I could reverse-flush the oil filter by blowing compressed air into the Line port, and I was right!
My procedure is this:
Put drain pan under vehicle.
Charge air compressor.
Start car, and run through all gears to pressurize hydraulic shift control system.
Stop engine.
Drain transmission, and temporarily reinstall drain plug.
Remove transmission dipstick.
Remove plug from Line inspection port.
Use small blow gun with pointed rubber tip to blow compressed air into the line inspection port until you hear air bubbling up through fluid in transmission for a moment.
Drain transmission again.
Use tube brush or similar to try to remove as much junk as you can from transmission housing, and from under transmission oil filter (just inside drain port, and to the right).
Reinstall drain plug with new washer.
Refill transmission (you'll need to use about 4.25 quarts used of 3).
Start engine, run through all gears, stop engine, and recheck fluid level.
I did this last week and my transmission was about 95% recovered! My only problem was that 1st gear would drop out, and re-engage sometimes when I was in M1 to descend a hill, or starting from a stop after the transmission was warmed up. I did my reverse-flush again yesterday, and my tranny seems to be 100% fixed!
I'll post an update later if you want to find out how it holds up.
Sound familiar? I've seen 3 posts of this problem is here just today!
Here's what happens:
The 1st Gen CR-V Automatic transmission has an internal all filter and it gets clogged over time. Stuff gets sucked in, blocks the filter, transmission loses oil pressure, clutches disengage. When you stop the engine, the transmission oil pump stops too, the junk falls out, unclogging the filter, and upon restarting, the transmission works normally again, until the junk clogs the filter.
The problem is that you have to remove and disassemble the transmission to replace the Tranny's oil filter. Given that I don't have a spare 2k to spend on a transmission rebuild, I didn't want to do that.
So here's how I fixed it:
CR-V transmissions have oil pressure inspection ports. You pull a plug out, and install an oil pressure gauge, then you operate the engine and transmission and check the oil pressure. There is one port for each of the 5 clutches, and one for the main pressure line. Checking the hydraulic control chart in my service manual, I found the Line port is right after the oil pump, which is right after the filter, and the Line port is right on the top of the transmission, by the lock-up control solenoids.
I figured I could reverse-flush the oil filter by blowing compressed air into the Line port, and I was right!
My procedure is this:
Put drain pan under vehicle.
Charge air compressor.
Start car, and run through all gears to pressurize hydraulic shift control system.
Stop engine.
Drain transmission, and temporarily reinstall drain plug.
Remove transmission dipstick.
Remove plug from Line inspection port.
Use small blow gun with pointed rubber tip to blow compressed air into the line inspection port until you hear air bubbling up through fluid in transmission for a moment.
Drain transmission again.
Use tube brush or similar to try to remove as much junk as you can from transmission housing, and from under transmission oil filter (just inside drain port, and to the right).
Reinstall drain plug with new washer.
Refill transmission (you'll need to use about 4.25 quarts used of 3).
Start engine, run through all gears, stop engine, and recheck fluid level.
I did this last week and my transmission was about 95% recovered! My only problem was that 1st gear would drop out, and re-engage sometimes when I was in M1 to descend a hill, or starting from a stop after the transmission was warmed up. I did my reverse-flush again yesterday, and my tranny seems to be 100% fixed!
I'll post an update later if you want to find out how it holds up.