Anger, I’m CVT and checked the ECU code. Hondata actually has a tune for my car now Ktune does not and also looking at the JB4 unit also as they are willing to help me with a tune. I’m already lighting up the front inner tire on turns bone stock so not really a fan of the supposed “predictive” AWD this car has. Agreed, we seriously need a intercooler solution.
Ktuner have not updated their compatibility table for a while now. Check the list here
http://www.ktuner.com/KTunerHelp/version_history.htm?ms=AAAA&st=MA==&sct=MA==&mw=MjQw in case yours is mentioned. If not, there is a whole process that you must do to send them your data and then hope that they will get back to you soon enough. Given that the majority of 5th gens are CVT, maybe the unlocking process for your ECU will take less time. Otherwise, you are in for a "unknown ETA". I would suggested with sticking either with Hondata or Ktuner. Ktuner is a great solution but I am beginning to get really frustrated with them, having to wait all these months. I totally get that its difficult to unlock the ECU and that they have a ton of work to do but without having the ECU, I am pretty much stuck. Its the key to the whole tuning process.
I have wondered myself about the way the AWD system operates. It is marketed as "predictive" as you say, it is supposed to be a front wheel drive car until the ECU "predicts" wheel spin and engages the rear wheels BUT the dashboard AWD screen has the blue arrow indicators always on for the rear wheels. If Honda were 100% accurate, that would mean that there is a 95%-5% engagement, not 100-0. In any case, I have detected minimal delay in the rear wheels, only in certain occasions. Given that the car is heavy, tall and obviously not designed for extreme cornering, I am not sure that its an engagement delay or a delay in increase of the torque sent to the rear wheels. I have learned however how the system behaves more or less so I "prepare" it for sending more torque to the back. When cornering following the proper "racing" line, apex and all, the AWD should not engage in general. Wheel spin should be avoided no matter if its a FWH, RWD or AWD. If you want to play with the car, drift it or break the balance in general, you either have to do it by using raw power mid-corner (which does not apply to us, at least not in stock form), or use the weight to break the balance. This means letting off the gas pedal, even stepping slightly on the brakes while entering a corner or right after entering it. With the CRV, right after doing that, full throttle with RPMs over 2500-3000 should slide the car a bit AWD style.
Main limiting factor is the VSA. In my previous Civic Type-Rs (EP3 and FN2), as well as the 1st, 2nd, 3rd gen CRVs and the 8th gen Civic I have previously owned (I ve owned 12 Hondas in total!), the VSA was completely disabled when pressing the respective button. Now VSA OFF disables TCS only. I absolutely despise that. I was driving on snow, had VSA off so I wouldnt get stuck and when the rear broke loose and oversteered, I immediately had the ESP engage. Also on quick cornering, looking to fool around a bit by drifting, again the ESP kicks in and kills all the fun. Its a pity because the chassis is so rigid, the suspension is so progressive and the brakes are so strong that the car is so mechanically stable that no ESP is needed if you know what you are doing. If you dont, well, do not disengage the VSA! I loved that about Hondas, that they gave the option to the driver, they didnt enforce anything..... Especially with 50 or 45 profile tires (on 19"s), you can have a sedan like experience while cornering. I was track racing back in the day with the Rs, so I kind of miss that! In Greece a FK8 costs 62000USD and I got the V for 43000USD so a weekend Civic is out of the question....!
Your exhaust looks great.
Do you know if that OE factory single muffler (ahead of the split) is straight thru?......or chambered?
Thank you! Sound isnt really affected for the passengers, but with the new mufflers I definitely get a sporty tone after 4500rpm. No difference in noise up until there. These are pretty much the biggest mufflers I could get, since the 90 degrees turn the pipe has to make doesnt leave much space for fitting. Plus my friends tell me that the car sounds much better! Given my past Honda experience, the resonator is straight through. Reflecting on the mufflers swap, if I had to do it all over again, I would keep the resonator and delete the mufflers completely. It would make more noise than now, but I think it would still be bearable for highway driving. After I get the engine sorted, I ll swap the otherwise good OEM exhaust for a 2.5" with no mufflers.
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