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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I am trying to solve a clunking / rattle sound coming from front passenger side under wheel. Dealership replaced ball joints but sound persists.

The sound only happens at low speeds, over small bumps, and when turning slightly left or right around curves.

My CRV is a 2010 AWD with 188000 Kms. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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10,798 Posts
Common issue are loose or wearing sway bar end links. They have plastic inside, and they can clunk (even though you can't feel any slop).

The most difficult part of this job is releasing the hardware...the threads rust and the nuts can't move. Then, it is time for a Dremel or cut-off wheel. ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Common issue are loose or wearing sway bar end links. They have plastic inside, and they can clunk (even though you can't feel any slop).

The most difficult part of this job is releasing the hardware...the threads rust and the nuts can't move. Then, it is time for a Dremel or cut-off wheel. ?
thanks, carbuff2. I will look into this.
 

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2009 CRV
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137 Posts
Common issue are loose or wearing sway bar end links. They have plastic inside, and they can clunk (even though you can't feel any slop).

The most difficult part of this job is releasing the hardware...the threads rust and the nuts can't move. Then, it is time for a Dremel or cut-off wheel. ?
I agree here, this is usually the first place to look. On the rack with the wheels hanging they will feel tight, if the suspension has load on it and is on a perfectly level L to R surface you can get a better idea and feel if they have a little play.
 

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I had lots of rattle when driving rough terrain/road similar to rubble strips. I replaced the sway bar end links on both front sides to give me peace and quiet. I'll do rears when I have the time just to have a fresh set all around.

Just my .02 - best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I had lots of rattle when driving rough terrain/road similar to rubble strips. I replaced the sway bar end links on both front sides to give me peace and quiet. I'll do rears when I have the time just to have a fresh set all around.

Just my .02 - best of luck!
Good idea. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, I'm not mechanically inclined, so I have to rely on a shop to do the work. Wish me luck! :)
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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10,798 Posts
Might as well have the shop just replace both front links. A reputable brand (MOOG) sells for ~$15 USD per side at Rock Auto. (These have grease fittings)
 

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I’ve had the same issue with our 2010 CRV. It’s my wife’s car and she commutes 30ish miles one way each day for work so naturally, I was very concerned. I had a fellow gear head take a ride with me and we both thought the noise could be coming from the front passenger side suspension. So I put the car up on ramps and had my wife sit inside and I crawled underneath and banged and rattled stuff until she indicated that I had found the noise. The culprit? The shift cable of all things. It’s like the sleeve looses it capacity to dampen vibrations or something. You don’t have to move it but a millimeter or two, and from the outside it only makes a dull tap, but from the inside it makes that obnoxious “klunk! Ka-klunk!” Is check there first because it’s an easy diagnosis.

Hello,

I am trying to solve a clunking / rattle sound coming from front passenger side under wheel. Dealership replaced ball joints but sound persists.

The sound only happens at low speeds, over small bumps, and when turning slightly left or right around curves.

My CRV is a 2010 AWD with 188000 Kms. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 

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Registered
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2 Posts
Hello,

I am trying to solve a clunking / rattle sound coming from front passenger side under wheel. Dealership replaced ball joints but sound persists.

The sound only happens at low speeds, over small bumps, and when turning slightly left or right around curves.

My CRV is a 2010 AWD with 188000 Kms. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 

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I had same problem with my 2009 , was front end links, not ball joints.
Dealer replaced and problem solved . Car handles much better too, did not realize how much the handling changed.
 
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