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front end clunking noise

4054 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Billybee
Good evening!

I have a 2005 CRV that has some clunking noise when I drive over bumps (turning left/right and going straight) and speed bumps. But its quiet on newer smooth roads. The noise seems like its on my driver side. (My city has some of the worst streets in canada)

I jacked the car up and placed on stands. I did the 9 and 3 / 12 and 6 wiggle test for the ball joint/tie rods, and both have no play.

One of the stabilizer links are aftermarket as it as a grease nipple on it. I don't have a grease gun, but the nipple looked crusty with dirt and rust.

Can a malfunctioning stabilizer link cause this clunking noise going over bumps in the road?
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Yes, they can cause all manner of creaking / groaning / clunking noises.
They are not expensive so replace all four as it may not be the crusty one causing the noise.
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When I bought my 2007 CRV in 2018, it had that clunk going over bumps.
When I went in for an NYS inspection, the mechanic told me to replace the sway bar link
Replaced them myself and the clunk was gone. So, yes, it can definitely be the sway bar link.
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You might be able to eliminate the noise just by lubricating the sway bar links. If the aftermarket ones have grease fittings, 'articulate' (twist) them before & after greasing them to work the grease in.

If you buy buy a grease gun, get a needle attachment for it as well. That allows you to lubricate the lower ball joints and ALL the OE end links that don't have grease fittings.

Grease gun (~$10 USD)

Extension flex hose ($4)

(Combo ~ $15)

Needle ($4)

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Yes, they can cause all manner of creaking / groaning / clunking noises.
They are not expensive so replace all four as it may not be the crusty one causing the noise.
T
When I bought my 2007 CRV in 2018, it had that clunk going over bumps.
When I went in for an NYS inspection, the mechanic told me to replace the sway bar link
Replaced them myself and the clunk was gone. So, yes, it can definitely be the sway bar link.
Thank you very much! I will try greasing them first as 1 of them has a zerk fitting. If there are still noises ROckAuto has some pretty competitive pricing and a lot of options.

You might be able to eliminate the noise just by lubricating the sway bar links. If the aftermarket ones have grease fittings, 'articulate' (twist) them before & after greasing them to work the grease in.

If you buy buy a grease gun, get a needle attachment for it as well. That allows you to lubricate the lower ball joints and ALL the OE end links that don't have grease fittings.

Grease gun (~$10 USD)

Extension flex hose ($4)

(Combo ~ $15)

Needle ($4)

Thank you for the links. Im curious about the needle and lower ball joint. Obviously I don't pierce through the boot, do I need to unbolt it from the lower control arm and slide the needle btwn the tappered boot and threaded part?
Obviously I don't pierce through the boot,
I guess it was NOT obvious...😇

The needle pierces such a small hole in the rubber, that it self-seals. The small blob of residual grease keeps water/moisture out.


++++++++++++

Years ago, I had a clunk over bumps. Didn't have new sway bar links, so I added the lubrication through the grease gun w/ needle until I could get new ones.

I DID receive the new parts, but to this day, I still haven't installed them... :rolleyes: :geek:
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I guess it was NOT obvious...😇

The needle pierces such a small hole in the rubber, that it self-seals. The small blob of residual grease keeps water/moisture out.


++++++++++++

Years ago, I had a clunk over bumps. Didn't have new sway bar links, so I added the lubrication through the grease gun w/ needle until I could get new ones.

I DID receive the new parts, but to this day, I still haven't installed them... :rolleyes: :geek:
Oh ok I will give it a shot with the swaybar links. I am not sure what brand they are but notice both sides have aftermarket ones with grease fittings. I might have to get the needle, or new fittings as the ones on them are rusted.
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