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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Read some threads on other forum sites about merits of using Fumoto valve. Fumoto valve is stainless steel ball valve inside brass body. Ball valve turned 90 degrees open/closed using locking lever. Locking lever seems secure, but attached 5/8" clip ring to keep lever in locked position.

Purchased F-106 valve from Amazon. Replaced oil pan drain plug with Fumoto valve & new crush washer.

Dry fit valve to check clearance. Filter end cap fits easily between filter & valve. No problem getting oil filter off/on. 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing attaches to nipple for easy drain into recycle container.

Valve does not extend below pan, so should have no trouble with road clearance.
 

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Been using Fumoto valves on my many vehicles for many years.
A great product.No washer and wrench needed.
 

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Is it really necessary to replace the drain plug washer everytime? I bet I have changed the oil over 100 times (never a Honda) and only once replaced the drain plug washer once. Ford F150, Sierra 1/2 ton, SAABs, Volvos, E150, BMW n325iC, Bronco, never had a drip.

Is the Honda washer one time use, if so why?

Thanks
 

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I have a Fumoto valve on my civic also. It is awesome. It really cuts down on the time of the oil change.
On my CRV, however, I've decided not to use Fumoto valve because just in case I take the car off road and end up with a bump just right where it might hit the valve... yes, I'm being paranoid :)

As for changing the crush washer every time, I would do it because it creates a better seal when you apply the torque on it.
There was a time where I got lazy and didn't get a new washer... I had to use more than 29 lbf*ft of torque to make the leak stop. (and yes, I use a torque wretch) :)
I have heard of people that never changed their washers (non-Honda) also, but that didn't work out for me :)
 

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Is it really necessary to replace the drain plug washer everytime? I bet I have changed the oil over 100 times (never a Honda) and only once replaced the drain plug washer once. Ford F150, Sierra 1/2 ton, SAABs, Volvos, E150, BMW n325iC, Bronco, never had a drip.

Is the Honda washer one time use, if so why?

Thanks
Sposta be one use, but a lot of people have reused them. Do a search and you'll see.
 

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On my CRV, however, I've decided not to use Fumoto valve because just in case I take the car off road and end up with a bump just right where it might hit the valve... yes, I'm being paranoid :)
That's why you use a small hose clamp to slip over the top of the brass valve body which you can tighten/loosen with a dime or small screwdriver. Cinch it down and that tab isn't lifting up...ever... You can also position the Fumoto valve to where the lift/release tab isn't pointing down, too.
 

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I have a Fumoto valve on my civic also. It is awesome. It really cuts down on the time of the oil change.
On my CRV, however, I've decided not to use Fumoto valve because just in case I take the car off road and end up with a bump just right where it might hit the valve... yes, I'm being paranoid :)

)
You can also buy this clip for $1 if it makes you feel better.



http://www.qwikvalve.com/5-8-Safety-Clip.html
 

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I have a fumoto on my Cummins. It makes oil changes fast and easy. Great product.
Only way to go on a Cummins, I know the 3 gallons in mine comes out all at once using the drain plug. Sure is nice to have some control and drain it directly into a recycle jug. Have one on the CR-V also, that one's even easier since it will all drain into an empty 5 qt Mobil-1 jug. Putting them on a couple other cars next oil change as well. No more crush washers or torque wrench or drain pan.
 

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I have a fumoto on my Cummins. It makes oil changes fast and easy. Great product.
Only way to go on a Cummins, I know the 3 gallons in mine comes out all at once using the drain plug. Sure is nice to have some control and drain it directly into a recycle jug. Have one on the CR-V also, that one's even easier since it will all drain into an empty 5 qt Mobil-1 jug. Putting them on a couple other cars next oil change as well. No more crush washers or torque wrench or drain pan.
Do they make them for the 1st gen crv?
 

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Doesn't a fumoto drain valve actually rise up above the bottom of the oil pan? If so, not as much 'sludge' on the bottom of that pan will drain out with the oil.
Does it make a difference now a days with better oil detergents and oil filters, i don't know.
But, if working space or a somewhat stripped oil drain plug was a problem, I would definitely put a fumoto valve in.
Easier to do oil changes, less messy and no more worries of stripping the drain plug.
Buffalo4
 

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Doesn't a fumoto drain valve actually rise up above the bottom of the oil pan? If so, not as much 'sludge' on the bottom of that pan will drain out with the oil.
Does it make a difference now a days with better oil detergents and oil filters, i don't know.
But, if working space or a somewhat stripped oil drain plug was a problem, I would definitely put a fumoto valve in.
Easier to do oil changes, less messy and no more worries of stripping the drain plug.
Buffalo4
From Fumoto "Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valves are designed to fit individual drain pan specifications and in almost every situation will not extend into the drain pan. However, replacement or aftermarket oil pans may differ from the original oil pan specification and as a result the valve stem may protrude further into oil pan than normal."
 

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I don't think you would have as much of a sludge drainage problem if you drive your vehicle and warm up the oil and agitate it.

On my truck, I drive it and get it to normal operating temperature then drain it.
It drains a few gallons within a couple minutes.
I have removed the valve cover and engine is clean.

Modern oils and regular oil changes and you won't have a sludge problem.

Worst engines I have seen with sludge was back in the 80s were running Pennzoil. That stuff is nasty and have never and will not ever put that garbage in my any of my engines.
 

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I don't think you would have as much of a sludge drainage problem if you drive your vehicle and warm up the oil and agitate it.

On my truck, I drive it and get it to normal operating temperature then drain it.
It drains a few gallons within a couple minutes.
I have removed the valve cover and engine is clean.

Modern oils and regular oil changes and you won't have a sludge problem.

Worst engines I have seen with sludge was back in the 80s were running Pennzoil. That stuff is nasty and have never and will not ever put that garbage in my any of my engines.
Pennzoil was garbage? NOT!!! Show me any online research that supports that conclusion.
Are you also one of those FRAM haters? :(
Buffalo4
 

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I don't think you would have as much of a sludge drainage problem if you drive your vehicle and warm up the oil and agitate it.

On my truck, I drive it and get it to normal operating temperature then drain it.
It drains a few gallons within a couple minutes.
I have removed the valve cover and engine is clean.

Modern oils and regular oil changes and you won't have a sludge problem.

Worst engines I have seen with sludge was back in the 80s were running Pennzoil. That stuff is nasty and have never and will not ever put that garbage in my any of my engines.
Pennzoil was garbage? NOT!!! Show me any online research that supports that conclusion.
Are you also one of those FRAM haters?

Buffalo4
Yep I am a fram hater too.
Why have 95% efficiently when you can have 99.9% ?
And i will say again after taking apart a motor that has run Pennzoil most of its life and scraping out with a putty knife a pound of coked sludge because of PARRIFIN WAX that Pennzoil uses in their conventional oil.
I don't know about their synthetic oil.
 
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