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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,
I have an automatic 2001 CR-V ES. Last week while driving for a few hours, and after a long 50mph hill, once I reached the top the power dropped and the gearbox seemed to hunt for a gear. It was jerky and pressing the throttle seemed to not do anything. It was only for maybe 20 seconds,and then it was fine. On the drive home there were no problems.
However,now if I drive for more than say 6 or so miles, once I get to a speed of 40+ it’s frequently loosing power as if it’s either gone to neutral or has no fuel. It’s almost as if it needs to clear it’s throat.
The car will stutter, drop revs, throttle does very little but then it’ll surge and then drop back and so on.
From what I’ve read online it could well be the fuel pump or filter, but I’m also extremely concerned it’s the gearbox. It’s going to mechanic Tuesday for a fluid flush as that is the colour of tea, and to also have the fuel pump checked.
Any thoughts ahead of time of which of the two it most likely is?
There are no warning lights, unusual noises or smells. Just highly unpredictable.
 

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Was anything done before this happen? When was the last time you change the fuel filter? Have you done the tune up recently? How many miles do you have? When it happens again you could check the quality of the spark. I suspect that you have an Igniter or a coil or both that's ready to go bad. Rarely these vehicles that the fuel pump goes bad. Have the repair shop do a fuel pressure test. It's a good time to replace the transmission fluid too. I hope this helps. Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’ve only had the car since late December and very little been done except new belt + diff mounts and oil. It could probably do with a service.(it was allegedly done when I bought it but take that with a pinch of salt) certainly hasn’t had fuel filter changed. It’s on 85k at the moment.
It definitely needs a transmission flush as the fluid is brown. I won’t lie I absolutely bricking it that my auto gearbox is about to give up.
Thanks for the reply, will let you know.
 

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I could be wrong but your symptoms describe the problem I had with my 2005 Mazda 3. It turned out to be the Mass Airflow Sensor. Had it changed and car back to normal...of course it took the dealer a hour to diagnose the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. I’ll have it checked out. Good to bear in mind. I have actually just managed to get the codes read and otto888man might be on track. Seems I have a misfire on cylinder 4 which could be any number of things it seems, and also what is plainly a knackered catalytic converter. Which at least might explain the incredibly annoying chugging noise I’ve been experiencing for months.
It’s going to be an interesting day at the garage though. And also very clearly expensive.
 

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If the CAT is plugged it would cause your low power complaint. If you know you have some problems like that, I would start there.
 

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If you have an automatic transmission and the fluid is the color of tea, it's dead or dying most likely. It was badly over heated.

The fact you say you can go a few miles then it acts up, pretty exact symptom of things being plugged up in the transmission. This is a common issue when fluid is changed properly.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Spoke to a gearbox specialist who told me that a fluid flush will pretty much take care of any gearbox issues. ‘It’s not great, but if you do it now it should be okay’. He said the fluid is more dirty than burnt. sincerely hope he’s right. As far as the current issue is concerned I think it’s becoming clear that something is causing a misfire and I think I’m about to receive a new Catslytic converter.
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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On a Generation 1 (B20 engine) you need to adjust the valve lash on a regular basis.

Do it NOW before you burn one, and need cylinder head work. That may be the cause of the misfires...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. Not going to lie, I have no idea what valve lash is, but i’ll Find out and give the mechanic a heads up. Cheers.
 

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Don’t want to be the reaper on the auto transmissions on the Gen 1, but as an owner of said, you really ought to get a handle on changing that fluid either at 15000 mile intervals, or if you have lots of hills AND it is AWD, once a year. Mine spit out the clutchplates (not really) after a few years of driving it myself and I DID regularly change said fluid. After seeing far too many Gen1s in the wrecking yard with nearly no body damage, it is the Achilles heel of the car as the engine is made of stout stuff IMHO. The local AAMCO did a crappy job, but I let them do it anyway, rebuilt my auto trans. It cost me a few 1000 bucks too, but I wouldn’t change my mind in doing it again, I would just take it to a better shop if I have to do it again. I have well over 250000 miles on it. AAMCO asked me how long I was going to keep the car, I told them till the wheels fall off, I didn’t tell them I had an extra set of wheels at home.lol
All that said, brace yourself, but make damn sure you TRUST the mechanic has both yours and their best interest in mind. Your best interest is to keep driving a relatively simple and sturdy platform for however long, theirs is to continue to keep you as a customer for when things are minor and easy all the way up to complicated and painful on the pocketbook. The lack of car payments makes all the difference in the world to me, haven’t paid for a car payment in over 6 years and I don’t miss it. On the side of the garage, have them pull ALL the fluids and start from scratch with new everywhere that you don’t know about or have proof it was done. I tend to like HONDA OEM fluids other than oil, but that is me. I got my CRV in December 2010 and by March of 2011, I had addressed all the fluids and a full brake job done spread out over the nice weekends. That’s one more thing, BUY THE SERVICE MANUAL, weather it’s digital or print, get it and keep it within reach as there are many things that will help you out in there and they all don’t talk over your head, it is relatively easy to read, but worst case, toss it in the car when you drop it at the shop, it could help out the mechanic to make sure they don’t skip a step or test. My CRV was parked last year and I have been reading codes and tinkering again with it and it had a misfire code, did a plug and wire and cap and rotor change for prevention work as they were last done years ago. The codes seem to have gone off, but it idles low, next up is a fuel filter and timing belt change, it’s a little early to do that, but prevention pays you back with the lack of failure most of he time. Good luck with your V, it is a lot of fun, I really just need to find an upholsterer that can help my drivers seat come back to life on the support side.
 

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FYI--don't get a flush, but the transmission needs a 3x (or 4x) drain and fill. Flushing will introduce solvents into the transmission, which can cause the failure.

The Gen 1 has a fairly bulletproof transmission. Don't hear of many failing around here unless they were badly neglected (including lack of fluid changes). I wasn't the best at upkeep on mine for a while (when times were tough here), but it's made it to 290,000 miles with only one minor issue (the parking pawl sticks). Beyond that it still shifts perfectly well for its age, and was getting regular fluid drain/fill procedures per the recommended schedule.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Amazing reply! Thanks for going to that trouble. Very interesting read.
Well the update here is that A:it doesn’t seem to be the gearbox (yay!) B: every single mechanic in my area is bloody useless. Four garages, four responses of ‘dunno mate, you just have to wait til it goes bad’. It’s pretty obviously fuel pump or filter or an electrical fault. Not a single garage will take the time to inspect or test. And the auto electrician I consulted said it wasn’t worth his time.
Spent a day kind of staring into space making an ‘umm’ sound as I was completely thrown as to what to do next.
What I have decided and your post has reinforced things is that I’m going to just work out how to do the stuff myself. Will invest a few quid in some tools, find a manual (somewhere) and just go for it.
I simply can’t trust mechanics round here I’m sad to say. I asked one to do a proper transmission flush and to use proper Honda atf. What he did was just drain / refill and without a doubt just used any old crap. When I told him I wanted a proper clean out he said ‘yeah, but takes most of the day mate. Other jobs to do.’ ????
So?
And this is from an established garage with an apparently great rep.
So yeah... did the lot of them. I’m going to do it myself. Hope you guys are occasionally on hand for the odd Q&A over the coming months.
Cheers again for your post. Very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Cheers. Yeah, when I say flush, I just meant drain and fill. Which I’m clearly going to have to do myself as local mechanics are a bunch of cowboys it seems.
 

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not to hijack this thread, but could crashcramer please follow up on his inquiry regarding a rear carpet piece?

also, mentioned in this thread is the recommendation to acquire a service manual. to the OP, i have a full Honda Factory service book in the classifieds.
 
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