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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
With-in the last couple of weeks our 97 CRV has required a jump in order to start, where it appears to work several more times during the day before the battery again, if left un-driven 24-72hrs, won't start...no audible/visual when turning key/I]
Hoping someone can point me in the right direction to trouble shoot/resolve cause for battery failure.
Thanks in advance.

NOTE:
RECENT BATTERY TEST:/B]
Before the Christmas holidays I drove to have the battery (only 1yr new) tested w/in an hour after jump starting it at home.
Interst Batteries kindly ran a diagnostics below and verified cable connection @ -/+ posts.
>MEASURED:461CCA
>RATED:500CCA
>TEMP:64F
>VOLT:12.59V

DOOR LOCKS - CURRENT SUMMARY
This maybe related to the battery issue... the door locks have gradually started to fail over the past couple of months:
>8/15 fab (2001 Python Security) stopped working
>11/15 door lock switch failed (will not lock/unlock @ door handle) I have to manually lock doors by hand old days vintage style by pressing down on the Lock Knobs.
Once I can resolve the battery issue I plan on repairing locks in Q1.
Can anyone help link me or provide me some keywords to look up the issue?

ELECTRICAL HISTORY
>Other than the 2002 CR-V Ignition Switch recall, this vehicles electrical system has been reliable.
 

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If it starts well with a jump, and the battery tested good within an hour of the jump, I would suspect the battery cable connections because doing a jump takes the connection between the battery post and the connectors out of the equation as well a the battery. A battery with such a low charge that it won't turn the starter will not charge up sufficiently by the alternator in 1 hour to get those readings you got from Interstate Batteries, unless possibly the fluid level in the battery was below the plates. Even then, I really doubt that you would get that high a CCA reading.
Buffalo4
 

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You can clean the battery terminals with baking soda and water solution. It will dissolve all the build up. You can use a toothbrush while pouring the baking soda to make things faster. But do not forget to rinse the terminals with water like two or three times after you are done. Then let it dry and reconnect.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
UPDATE:
First, thank You Experts for Your Suggestions...very much appreciated.
It appears that the BATTERY ISSUE is caused by an over night ~7 amp phantom/parasitic drain measured at the 40amp "OPTION" relay found under the hood/exterior fuse box next to battery.
IMG_1305.jpg
CRV starts fine for now, since removing aforementioned relay (3) days ago... no dead battery!!!!:cool:

QUESTION: Is it okay to run CRV without the 40amp OPTION relay until the following items are taken care of in a few weeks?:confused:
>Inspect/repair drivers side door lock assembly/actuator
>Replace after market Security System Python

BTW- I didn't mention in my original post last week that Im new to the Forum and plan to upload photos, etc. to the new profile soon. Thanks again!

1997 CR-V
 

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Discussion Starter #6
downloader may have nailed it!
Wouldn't imagine that the security system would generate 6.4amps "parasitic draw" when the vehicle is supposed to be asleep??
I'll keep you posted on final fix once the door locks are corrected and the security system is replaced.
 

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I'd think (hope) the security system has it's own fuse that could be pulled so you don't have t remove the relay and disable that entire circuit?

But something is certainly wrong with that system, 6.4 amps is a lot of power (close to 80 watts), especially if it's not energizing any outputs like door actuators or solenoids.
 
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