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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I just had some work done to the CRV including having the stock rear control arms replaced with adjustable ones, so the camber can be adjusted. Made appt with alignment shop, tech looks at vehicle and says it will be about 4 hours because with each adjustment of the rear camber, he has to take the wheel off. Then put it back on, hook up the sensor, and see if it is right, then repeat as needed. I couldn't leave the CRV for four hours so i didn't get the alignment done. I have a lowered Civic with camber and toe kits and had that aligned on a rack (different shop) no problem, no wheels coming off etc. So my question is if it is normal to have to remove the wheels on a CRV to do a camber adjustment during alignment. Thanks. It is a 2006 EX 5MT and i also just got a set of Cooper Discoverers that make the CRV look a little tough.
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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No, that's the sort of thing they say if they don't want to work on your car, but they don't want to be rude and tell you to leave.

A lot of contractors do that too. I would find a shop that wants to work on your car, or at least doesn't give you obvious BS like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, that's the sort of thing they say if they don't want to work on your car, but they don't want to be rude and tell you to leave.

A lot of contractors do that too. I would find a shop that wants to work on your car, or at least doesn't give you obvious BS like that.
That's what i was wondering. Thanks for the advice.
 

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The one on the driver side will be a PITA to get at because the EVAP canister and associated junk is sitting right behind the wheel. The other side I can't see being that bad to get to. But I suppose it depends on what kind of rack they are using.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The one on the driver side will be a PITA to get at because the EVAP canister and associated junk is sitting right behind the wheel. The other side I can't see being that bad to get to. But I suppose it depends on what kind of rack they are using.
Thanks Brent that makes sense. It does look tight.
 

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If you out camber adjusting control arms instead of the proper camber links (attach to top of spindle) then this is what happens.

The proper pieces for the rear are simple threaded link assembly that replaces the upper link, which allows alignment the normal way.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you out camber adjusting control arms instead of the proper camber links (attach to top of spindle) then this is what happens.

The proper pieces for the rear are simple threaded link assembly that replaces the upper link, which allows alignment the normal way.

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Hi thank you for the info. I never heard of the spindle camber links. Do you know the part number for it?
 

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There is no "part number" as they are offered by various manufacturers.

Just type in "CRV rear camber adjust" into google search.

I have seen the control arms you mentioned, never understood the ignorance behind that design for normal vehicles.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There is no "part number" as they are offered by various manufacturers.

Just type in "CRV rear camber adjust" into google search.

I have seen the control arms you mentioned, never understood the ignorance behind that design for normal vehicles.

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All of the google search results for 'CRV rear camber adjust' are for different brands of same part that i had installed. They are called 'rear camber kits' and/or 'rear camber arms', and they replace the oem control arm. I'm not sure which different part you are talking about or why an adjustable control arm is an 'ignorant design'. Could you please provide some more info on the part that you are talking about so that i can understand? Thanks.
 

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Ok that's the confusion. I forgot for some reason they label those control arms and they are not by what US mechanics are taught. Sorry about that confusion.

When you said "control arms" I have seen lower units for Honda's and others that the camber adjust is built into the actual control arm (bottom arm).

If you look at the front of your V, the lower arm is a control arm. And parts similar to that (3 point or more of mounting).

That said now, YOU NEED A DIFFERENT MECHANIC OR SHOP. Because the wheels do not need to come off. When I put mine on (Im a lifetime mechanic) once installed but jam nuts loose I put wheels back on, set it on the ground, drove it out of the shop and back in, reached in behind the tire and adjusted close, tightened nuts and drove until taking it in for alignment. We don't have an alignment system at our shop.

Took it to shop we loose for alignments and after having to show the guy the links (he said it couldn't be adjusted at first) took him 5 minutes to set camber into spec and done.



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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok that's the confusion. I forgot for some reason they label those control arms and they are not by what US mechanics are taught. Sorry about that confusion.

When you said "control arms" I have seen lower units for Honda's and others that the camber adjust is built into the actual control arm (bottom arm).

That said now, YOU NEED A DIFFERENT MECHANIC OR SHOP. Because the wheels do not need to come off. When I put mine on (Im a lifetime mechanic) once installed but jam nuts loose I put wheels back on, set it on the ground, drove it out of the shop and back in, reached in behind the tire and adjusted close, tightened nuts and drove until taking it in for alignment. We don't have an alignment system at our shop.

Took it to shop we loose for alignments and after having to show the guy the links (he said it couldn't be adjusted at first) took him 5 minutes to set camber into spec and done.



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Cool thank you a lot for that info. That is how i know it is supposed to work on literally all cars and that is why i was confused. Mine is a 2006 i wonder if on that year it is an anomaly, like BDub said about the evap canister being there. But it sounded crazy the way the alignment shop was saying how complicated it was. Thanks again for weighing in.
 

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Nope the evap is NOT in the way. I have a 2003 which is the exact same except smaller brakes and different headlights/taillights.

Evap is a pain in the ass when changing them, but has 0 effect on the alignment process because the actual bits that they need access too run outside next to the rear strut just like the normal link.

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I'm actually about to go change a stabilizer bar link on the right rear (I put a cheap on on in a pinch and it went bad 2 weeks later) I'll try to remember to snap a picture of link with tire on.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nope the evap is NOT in the way. I have a 2003 which is the exact same except smaller brakes and different headlights/taillights.

Evap is a pain in the ass when changing them, but has 0 effect on the alignment process because the actual bits that they need access too run outside next to the rear strut just like the normal link.

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Ok thanks for all the info, i gotta go to a different shop. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You can see the link towards the top, very easy access and that's the left side where the evap system is hiding (but can't see it because it's in front of the fuel tank)


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That is crystal clear thank you for taking the picture. Yeh it seems real straight-forward. Thanks again for all of your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No problem man. I hate shops like that, give the rest of us good mechanics/shops a bad name, so always happy to help.

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Hey man i went out and looked under my CRV to see the angle from the picture you sent, and i was wondering if i could ask your opinion about something. I noticed that the ABS sensor cords are zip tied around the control arms instead of being in their brackets. The replacement parts came with detachable brackets and i never got them back or heard anything about them not fitting from the mechanic. (a different shop than the alignment place). I'm guessing they didn't line up and the he chose this as the alternative. The cords are not tight and are kind of just dangling there. Am i tripping to be kinda upset about this? Thanks again for all the knowledge.
134325
 

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Other than should have done better than that at securing it (looks like only one ziptie) I wouldn't sweat that. As long as both ends of the wire are dangling a bit to allow free movement without stress when suspension moves, it's nothing to worry about. Chances are the brackets didn't fit or didn't line up. Mine doesn't have ABS (just LX model, I hate ABS) so I didn't have to mess with it. But good quality zip ties don'e right will be perfectly fine.

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Other than should have done better than that at securing it (looks like only one ziptie) I wouldn't sweat that. As long as both ends of the wire are dangling a bit to allow free movement without stress when suspension moves, it's nothing to worry about. Chances are the brackets didn't fit or didn't line up. Mine doesn't have ABS (just LX model, I hate ABS) so I didn't have to mess with it. But good quality zip ties don'e right will be perfectly fine.

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That's great now i can get a good night's sleep without worrying about it. Thank you for explaining it and for all your advice today. I appreciate it.
 
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