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So, does anyone know if there any evidence that the Dual Mode charging system provides more extra electricity than is consumed by having the lights on?
And, most importantly to me, by the NON LED head lights that exist on most Gen 5 CRVs?
Asked and answered already. Please re-read my post above.

Basic electronics theory: IF your Honda is not putting out enough power to power all the electronics.. the voltage on the 12v bus will drop to a level below specifications.. in BOTH charging modes. As long as you see normal voltages in both charge modes.. the charging system is meeting all the requirements required for the vehicle. PERIOD. Unless you have added systems to your stock vehicle that will demand more power.. the vehicle is designed with sufficient charging and electrical power for the vehicle, under all driving conditions AND all trims. Have you added a 1000 watt stereo system or something... of course not.

You are looking for a problem here that does not exist. An LED headlight equipped CRV trim level will most likely use a bit less power than the Halogens.. but the vehicles power system is designed FOR Halogens.. since they are the default on most trim levels.

The only possible issue with Honda's native charging system for some drivers and driving conditions is that you will not have a fully charged battery in some cases if you allow the vehicle to run in low charge mode. It's always a crap shoot depending on what state the charging system is in when you turn off your vehicle. Easy peasy... turn on your headlights when driving ... problem solved.
 

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17 CRV EXL AWD, 14 CRV EXL AWD
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With Gen 5 the alternator still varies it's output with load. I have halogen lights and when they are turned on the voltage increases. Don't know about LED lights or exactly what their control scheme is now. The one thing different is I can't find an ELD module anymore, but I assume it's no longer needed since the PCM can see any device that is turned on and can calculate an approximate load based on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
I have a Honda Care 8yr 100K extended warranty.

Has anyone heard of Honda Care saying that the use of a NON original equipment size battery is a cause to deny coverage?
 

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2017 CRV EX AWD
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I have a Honda Care 8yr 100K extended warranty.

Has anyone heard of Honda Care saying that the use of a NON original equipment size battery is a cause to deny coverage?
im sure if the issue was Voltage/electrical it would give them grounds to deny a claim
 

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I was planning to replace my stock battery with an Interstate MT-51R, but when I called one of my local shops that’s listed on the Interstate website as a dealer, the guy was passing along his feeling that in the last several years he hasn’t found them to be all that reliable, with them lasting on average only about 2-3 years. Of course I have no knowledge of whether what he was telling me is true, but still. I wondered if it might have been influenced by Costco pretty much locking up the Interstate sales at lower prices, for their members. Or it could just be true.

:unsure:
 

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Feb 14th a order was placed for my 10,000 limited submarine Blue 185 crv, yes they did not have model numbers yet. the Panasonic battery lasted over 6 years for me, rated for 4 years. the 2002 lasted over 9 years for me, like 12, replaced with a manufacturer they put bats together at.. And if I want to place a larger cap I do so, will not get me anywhere down the road larger or smaller, Heck idid that on my other car and who am I to say what is right or wrong. GH Honda engineers are there correctly choosing, want to mod be our guests. the cover is a insulator, cosmetics. you never want to smother a battery. and what they did day one look a covered bat (used my words wiesly)
 

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'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
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I've heard good things about those Panasonic batteries, couldn't find one around here. Battery covers are critically important to protect the battery from engine compartment heat under the tightly packed CR-V hood. Especially with newer batteries, which simply are not the same quality of the old days any more. As long as the battery's top is open, it is not "smothered." It's the sides that matter, where the heat damage gets in. IMO the 51R is a lawnmower battery, not near large enough, but the engineering department never wins against the cost-cutting department.
 

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Yes the top is opened and see if I can remember were there not Pin holes at one point on a battery cap or cover I sure remember so on the cover to?? (questioning), not going to argue about insulation, cosmetics. I will say do not let your bat get hot, and watch it PUFF. Ever see a bat puff, ever see it Burn, ever see it go on fire. don't ask me I don't know Jack, I know just a lil more then you think that I don't share online. I not mention this if I did not know.







139758
 

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'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
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I gotcha! Nolo Contendere. When I mentioned the top being open, I just meant with no cover or anything blocking the battery's access to ventilation. The CR-V's bottom and side covers act as shields to help protect the battery from engine heat, as it is located very close to the engine in a tightly packed engine compartment. The insulation pads, both aftermarket and the ones that come on the new CR-V's, provide the same function. The only time a car battery burns/explodes (obviously not counting a fire) is when it is being subjected to a severe overcharge from a malfunctioning alternator or other major electrical issue. Just living in a high heat environment will only shorten its life.
 

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man you got all the right answers, to all our questions. do you need a rubber Apron? and gloves. and goggles....(joking) you got the test kit ready
 

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'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
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No, but I do have some experience with batteries, having been a truck driver. Years ago I was very happy to receive a brand new tractor. It was a Mack Day cab, with the big motor and fully loaded, a very nice one. First night, I set out for DFW, with about 45k on. Got up there, no issues. Smooth and fast. On the way back I stopped for fuel at the Knox. When I was done and ready to leave, I went to fire it up and the right side battery box exploded when I engaged the starter. This one had battery boxes on both sides, as it had a full complement of 6 batteries - the heavy duty version of the truck. When I say it exploded I mean it went off like a bomb. People came running out to look. Luckily the explosion ruptured the main cables on that side. It caught fire, had to put that out with the extinguisher. I had to be towed in. $9,000 later it had a new battery box, fuel tank, one air tank, cables and wiring harness, alternator, and 3 batteries.Cause? The alternator. Brand new truck, too. I had a ruptured eardrum and a lovely headache. Never had any other trouble out of that tractor for the two years I drove it. Years later I had a new Cascadia pulled in for a week while they replaced and rerouted the battery cables due to a fire hazard issue recall. De ja vu. 24v systems can get away from you pretty quickly when they malfunction.
 

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No, but I do have some experience with batteries, having been a truck driver. Years ago I was very happy to receive a brand new tractor. It was a Mack Day cab, with the big motor and fully loaded, a very nice one. First night, I set out for DFW, with about 45k on. Got up there, no issues. Smooth and fast. On the way back I stopped for fuel at the Knox. When I was done and ready to leave, I went to fire it up and the right side battery box exploded when I engaged the starter. This one had battery boxes on both sides, as it had a full complement of 6 batteries - the heavy duty version of the truck. When I say it exploded I mean it went off like a bomb. People came running out to look. Luckily the explosion ruptured the main cables on that side. It caught fire, had to put that out with the extinguisher. I had to be towed in. $9,000 later it had a new battery box, fuel tank, one air tank, cables and wiring harness, alternator, and 3 batteries.Cause? The alternator. Brand new truck, too. I had a ruptured eardrum and a lovely headache. Never had any other trouble out of that tractor for the two years I drove it. Years later I had a new Cascadia pulled in for a week while they replaced and rerouted the battery cables due to a fire hazard issue recall. De ja vu. 24v systems can get away from you pretty quickly when they malfunction.
So if the root cause for the explosion was determined to be the alternator, that means it was over-charging the battery and the battery was boiling off Hydrogen and oxygen.. a common problem with over charging of flooded cell batteries. With regard to the explosion.... it was actually the warm H and O gases that boiled off inside the battery and battery box combusting (likely from some very small spark of some sort).

This is precisely why the best practice is to never mess with a flooded cell starter battery in a closed environment..... unless you know for a fact that your battery is in no way been pushed through an overcharge state. Since you cannot smell hydrogen or oxygen.. you have no way to know if it is present in something like a closed garage for example. Your only bet is if you are able to smell some sulfur due to over-charging.

Now days.. modern consumer alternators are generally protected from doing this by 1) protection circuits. 2) sensors in the vehicle that trigger an alarm light on the instrument display.
 

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Yep. The sulfur smell was strong but only after the event. Of course, it was a brand new truck - still had the plastic on the seats - so there was that smell. So it could have been there and I just didn't smell it. But it was summertime and I had the A/C going, so who knows. I'm thankful it happened after I climbed back in and had the door shut and cranked it, instead of while I was putting fuel in the tank on that (right) side. Interestingly enough, it didn't damage the 3 batteries in the left side battery box, just the 3 in the right side, closest to the alternator.

It's an odd thing that some innovations are implemented on big trucks for years before ever being seen on cars, and yet with others it's the opposite. This truck was pre-computer-age, so I'm sure the big high output alternator didn't have that, but I'd bet most of them do now, since everything is computerized, especially the super-finicky and troublesome emissions systems and computer-controlled injector solenoids, etc. But there are still a lot of truck fires caused by this stuff. Expensive!
 

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Discussion Starter #135
I recently came across this post:

https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/battery-upgrade.149010/page-3

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You can put a group 35 battery in there (since they used them in Canada, where apparently Honda can't get away with this). I put a Champion (Johnson Controls) Group 35 AGM in there, works perfectly. 650 CCA. It's the same battery they sell as a Bosch "Platinum" and has a 4 year replacement warranty. It will fit it in there fine (without the padding Honda has on the group 51), but if you want the tray and insulator you can order the Canadian-fit parts from hondapartscheap...
I'm pretty sure you cannot fit a group 24 like some of the older gen CRV's used, the new location of the battery (at least in the 1.5T) is maybe a half inch longer than a 35 and there is no wiggle room.

31521-TLA-A10 (tray): $4.08
31531-TLA-A11 (insulator) $12.30
31512-TLA-A10 (hold down plate) $6.79 (you can use the original, but this one will sit flatter


Has anyone that converted to a Group 35 battery used any of TLA parts noted above?
According to Dawn-vt no additional parts are needed

Has anyone replaced their 51R with a larger battery?

I’m not so sure that I need the insulation because I live in Southeastern PA, a temperate region.
My previous car was a Passat with 1.8 Turbo which was still going strong on its second uninsulated battery at 130,000 miles and 13 years.
 
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