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Hey, Where did you find your B20 connector(for B20P to C20P cable) and your A32P old connector for (A32P old to A32P and G24P)? All I'm finding is connectors with exposed solder posts. this looks so much cleaner. thank you so much for your help with everything.
B20->C20: One end came from this harness on eBay (took 2 weeks to receive from CN) and other from DigiKey website. There are 2 in this eBay listing that I've updated (in the bag to the right).
A32P->A32&G24P: Two ends for A32Ps came from this harness on Amazon, I had a pigtail for G24P.

I used one end from this harness on Amazon to add an extra run going to HFL plug. It was just one wire but it's all plug and play this way.

Now the USB cables are not that simple. Wire gauge is very important here (search on Google for USB 2.0 wiring standards). I found this harness from an Odyssey on eBay and it had both of my USB runs. Original USB cable goes from the center console to the original IMID screen and it splits about midway (male/female plugs - pop the side plastic kick panel off on the passenger side and shine some light there, you will see it). So It was very easy to just connect USB1 straight to original harness and for my USB2 I simply bought the other part of the original run with the USB port and connected it to it. This way it's all OEM, properly shielded, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I tried 3d printing the connector, it didnt turn out too well. My 3d printer doesn't work for things that have tight tolerances. Also, I was printing out of PETG, the same stuff soda bottles are made of, I was nervous about it deforming in the heat of the car. But, I finally got the Amp connector that I needed! I found a 2015 CRV in a junkyard. It was stacked on top of another car so I had to climb to get into it. super sketchy. I cut all of the amplifier and stereo cables out. Luckily it had been pretty well stripped other than the wiring harness, so it didn't take much work. It only cost $25 for all the pigtails. If anyone had been looking at my GPS location on find my friends, they would think that I went to a strip club, at 11 am no less, as the junkyard was directly behind a club, and the crv was on the back fence. Like VLAD717 I ordered the USB cables from a honda Odyssey on eBay. They should arrive this weekend. I'm so close that I can taste it. I plan to create the cables over the next few days and install them this weekend. I'm planning on having the HDMI cable and 2nd USB and Imid USB cable wired to the glove box. I will rarely use them, but I still want to have access. Any Idea which connector on the back of the head unit is used to connect to a phone for car play? Which is used to perform the update?
 

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I'm all done and 100% functional like OEM. Will see if the service guys at Honda dealership will notice this next time I'm in. :) I love that I can change backup camera views on the big screen and to my surprise, line guidance works too when I move my steering wheel. The B-20P->C-20P adapter wiring update that I mentioned in one of my previous posts does enable AUX feature since I have that jack in my console. GPS antenna is in and time/date automatically syncs with the satellite now. No issues with the Google Maps navigation so far with the GPS antenna plugged in. Super happy with this setup.

@Shutter I have some pigtails left, IMID screen from a 2012 CR-V with Navi - let me know if you need anything.

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That is amazing! I'm curious why Pandora shows as an option and not SiriusXM. Just basing that question on what I see on my factory head unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Making the cables has taken longer than I thought. I wish that I had bought pigtails for the male connectors. I had to solder every wire to a post, and it took forever. I use heat shrink tubing and liquid electrical tape from harbor freight to seal it up a bit more. I'm nearly done, and the diagrams that Vlad provided have been excellent. There is just one concern that I have. On 2015 models with an amplifier, the amp is on its own 20A fuse. I'm concerned that connecting it to the existing power for the stereo might overload the circuit. I'm no electrical engineer, but I imagine the amp is on its on a dedicated circuit for a reason. If anyone knows better please let me know. I'm trying to figure out a good solution for getting power to the amp. Any suggestions would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
One more issue ive run into. My 2014 CR-V ex has one set of wires to both the door woofer and tweeter. the 2015 EXL has those separated out on their own channels from the amplifier. The AMP does handles the cross over. I need to rewire the front tweeters and woofers otherwise I wont get either the higher or lower frequency range.
 

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@Shutter I was concerned about the power too when I was making a diagram. I agree, don't connect AMP to the radio power wires. AMP power should go to a 20A fuse located in the engine compartment, position #13. Alternatively, you can run the red cable straight to the battery with an in-line 20A fuse and find a good ground point for the black wire.

That's certainly a lot of work but yes on the re-wiring the speakers and tweeters if you want "like factory". Otherwise it should work as is. Not sure if you already have a factory subwoofer - definitely get one for a full effect!
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
@Shutter I was concerned about the power too when I was making a diagram. I agree, don't connect AMP to the radio power wires. AMP power should go to a 20A fuse located in the engine compartment, position #13. Alternatively, you can run the red cable straight to the battery with an in-line 20A fuse and find a good ground point for the black wire.

That's certainly a lot of work but yes on the re-wiring the speakers and tweeters. Not sure if you already have a factory subwoofer - definitely get one, otherwise you won't get the full effect of this upgrade!
IT'S ALIVE!!!! I wired power to the battery terminal with an in line fuse. I left the negative side going through the stereo connector. I might change that but I kind of think that will be ok. For now I have wired the front speakers all through the factory door speaker( woofer) lines. The tweeters seem to be working fine though. Im thinking that the door speakers are given the full range, but the tweeter lines are limited to the higher frequencies. I haven't yet installed the factory amp, but that is going in tomorrow. The stock speakers sound better than they ever have before. The amp made a huge difference. Im still getting the hang of the new system. The steering wheel siri button works to bring up siri sometimes and others it brings up the honda assistant. I don't know why. Im trying to figure out how to manually set the date. normally this is done by GPS, but I don't have the GPS antenna. Vlad, I look forward to seeing your switched solution.
Seeing a dec 31 2012 date on my imid will get really old. Vlad, Thank you for all of your help with this. Your cable designs saved me many many hours. That amplifier adapter cable was pretty crazy, but it worked like a charm. for the male connectors I used the connectors that I bought from digi key that were made to be soldered to a board. I soldered wires to the pins on the back. I don't advise this. it took a very long time to do. huge pain. I was impatient. I could have waited two weeks for pigtail adapters from china. I just wanted to get it done so I had to dust off my soldering iron. after soldering all the pins to wires, I was sick of soldering so I made the rest of the connections with butt connectors. Solder would have been cleaner, but it would have taken a very very long time. The 16-22 AWG butt connectors with heat shrink tubing held well. After finishing the cable connections I got some of that split corrigated tubing and stuffed the wires inside. I probably made the cables a bit too long because I was worried about getting access to the amp cable end in the case I needed to swap things around. As it is I could pull that connector out and work on it sitting in the front passenger seat rather than laying cramped on the floor. Im super excited to have Carplay! Took me a bit to find a USB2 thumb drive. My usb3 drives wouldn't work. My only USB2 drive was super small, and couldn't fit the update. I had to borrow a drive. I went through a phase of getting rid of usb2 drives a few years back. Again Vlad thank you so much for your help! I f I can figure out how to set the date, or get a switched GPS antenna, this system would be essentially a 2015 CRV...+carplay.
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@Shutter Nice work man! Super happy to see that you got it going. Unfortunately, the date cannot be set manually - you will need to get a GPS antenna for it. I hit the breaks on installing a GPS on/off switch because after that one incident, I have never had this problem again. Weird! If the issue re-occurs then I would like to check on something first... There is a hidden service menu that you can access by pressing Power+Home+Eject buttons for a few seconds. Under it you can see detailed GPS status information. Right now it usually sees 6-9 satellites and navi is working fine. I want to see those stats when it's acting up. Hopefully it will not. :)
 

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Hi @vlad717 / @Shutter
I have been following this thread from the UK with interest. I have a pre-facelift 2014 SR with the old Navi system and I am considering following your lead and fitting a post 2015 unit.
I have identified a matched head unit and iMid display on eBay that would suit my amplifier and subwoofer setup and I have all the wiring diagrams. Currently looking for connectors, etc.
Before I take the plunge, I have a quick question - did you have any problems getting the replacement head units to work?
I have read elsewhere that they will need an unlock code because the VIN number is not recognised.
Grateful for any advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
You will need an unlock code. You can get a stereo unlock code from Honda if you have the VIN of the donor car. Get the unlock code here. I wrote the unlock code and on the head unit with a sharpie for safe keeping. I also made a couple of pTouch labels of the unlock code and put one in the glove box and the other inside the center storage compartment. I only had to enter it once on first installation. I highly recommend the upgrade. It feels like a whole new car. The only oddity I have noticed is that with google maps the mic doesn’t work unless I have Bluetooth disabled. But that doesn’t really matter because you are connected with a cable anyway. I think it might be more of a google maps problem than a wiring problem. I recommend using pigtails as much as possible. Way easier than crimping and making connectors your self.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Hi @vlad717 / @Shutter
I have been following this thread from the UK with interest. I have a pre-facelift 2014 SR with the old Navi system and I am considering following your lead and fitting a post 2015 unit.
I have identified a matched head unit and iMid display on eBay that would suit my amplifier and subwoofer setup and I have all the wiring diagrams. Currently looking for connectors, etc.
Before I take the plunge, I have a quick question - did you have any problems getting the replacement head units to work?
I have read elsewhere that they will need an unlock code because the VIN number is not recognised.
Grateful for any advice.
One other thing, I didn’t need a unlock code for the Imid.
 

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@Shutter
Thanks. I had a look at the webpage.
I can get the VIN from the eBay advert but the vehicle is long gone. Where / how can I get the serial number?
Is there a way to power up the unit and obtain?
 

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Get the unlock code here.
NIce of you to supply that, but am pretty sure UK/EU cars will not work on that.

Hi @vlad717 / @Shutter
I have been following this thread from the UK with interest. I have a pre-facelift 2014 SR with the old Navi system and I am considering following your lead and fitting a post 2015 unit.
I have identified a matched head unit and iMid display on eBay that would suit my amplifier and subwoofer setup and I have all the wiring diagrams. Currently looking for connectors, etc.
Before I take the plunge, I have a quick question - did you have any problems getting the replacement head units to work?
I have read elsewhere that they will need an unlock code because the VIN number is not recognised.
Grateful for any advice.
I've had 3x pre-facelifted CR-Vs.

Rather than waste time/money on a facelift-style headunit, get a proper double unit from Pioneer/Kenwood/Sony that come with AA/CP already. Thats what I'd do.

The headunit on the facelifted 4th Gen CR-Vs is nothing to write home about.
 

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Thanks, but I'm not overly interested in AA/CP. I just wanted to be able to update the maps (easier with the Garmin) and I quite liked the idea of keeping the nav integration on the iMid.
However, if I can't get a code, I may have to reconsider.
 

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i-MID can still be retained with a non-Honda headunit depending on the brand/supplied cabling.

In all honesty, if I was in your shoes and looking to change the infotainment unit, the last thing I'd be doing is swapping to another Honda one.

Not all SR model CR-Vs came with the Garmin nav, so you could stick in any Double-Din unit and you wouldnt ever need the i-MID ever again anyway :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
In many was aftermarket head units are superior. What I was going for was to try to keep the car cohesive visually and functionally. Using a Honda head unit keeps all of the systems working as though it’s all original. I’ve never cared for the look of aftermarket stereos either. Using a Honda stereo was significantly cheaper than an a decent aftermarket one. I paid 170 for the stereo, 50 for the imid. But then I bought an amp $60 and a subwoofer $30. An aftermarket head unit alone without install is over US $400 for a basic unit. And then you don’t have a cohesive system anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
@Shutter
Thanks. I had a look at the webpage.
I can get the VIN from the eBay advert but the vehicle is long gone. Where / how can I get the serial number?
Is there a way to power up the unit and obtain?
I believe the serial number is the number off of the sticker on the head unit. It’s been a while since I got the code, but I’m almost certain that’s the case.
 

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@TheDarkKnight
It's true the iMid can still be used to display vehicle information, range, average speed, etc following an aftermarket head unit install. In addition, the steering wheel controls can be retained with the use of a suitable CANBUS adapter.
However, audio and nav steering information will be lost from the iMid, features which like @Shutter and @vlad717, I would quite like to retain. Without the GA Bus or DUET connection between the head unit and the iMid, there is no way to display this info on the iMid.

I am not overly into high tech audio, the original I have (with amp and sub) sounds fine to my ears for the little time I have it turned on. But, I would quite like to retain all the features of the original equipment just with the added benefit of the ability to upgrade the maps on the sat nav - something I cannot do at the moment.

From what I have looked at so far and having worked out the wiring diagrams, the install is reasonably straightforward providing:
a) I can source the connectors, pins, adapter leads, etc.
b) I can find a way to unlock the head unit.
 
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