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2017 CRV Touring - Pearl White w Black Interior
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So this had happened
View attachment 150940

And this
View attachment 150941

So originally fuse 16 blew so I replaced it. Then 21 blew so I replaced that, then everything melted and I now have nothing as per my previous post. It looks like these fuses don't want to blow so the issue gets passed to the next fuse.
So 16 was a 10 amp and 21 was a 20 amp, right, judging by the remaining melted fuse body that appears next to 21? So.. which systems are each of these fuses defined to protect?

Honda usually isolates different systems via fusing quite well. So if you are seeing rolling fuse blowouts across different 10 or 20 amp fuses, it makes me think you have a wiring short somewhere that is shorting one system to another in some manner.

Even if the fuses are junk and melt instead of blow... fact remains, you should not be seeing fuses cascading in over-current like this. Over-current fuse pops means something somewhere is shorted.
 

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2011 CR-V LX 2wd White / 2003 Suzuki XL_7 Limited 4x4
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Wow... That's a mess. Do you have rodents / squirrels in your area? They can make a mess of a wiring harness eating the insulation.
 

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2009 Honda CRV 2.2 CTDiI
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
So 16 was a 10 amp and 21 was a 20 amp, right, judging by the remaining melted fuse body that appears next to 21? So.. which systems are each of these fuses defined to protect?

Honda usually isolates different systems via fusing quite well. So if you are seeing rolling fuse blowouts across different 10 or 20 amp fuses, it makes me think you have a wiring short somewhere that is shorting one system to another in some manner.

Even if the fuses are junk and melt instead of blow... fact remains, you should not be seeing fuses cascading in over-current like this. Over-current fuse pops means something somewhere is shorted.
Fuse 16 is for right hand low beam, this originally went and I replaced the fuse. As there was still an issue with the low beam circuit, what should have happened, in my opinion, is it should have blown the fuse, this didn't happen, instead it blew fuse 21 which is the fuse leading to the relay for both low beams. I replaced that fuse not knowing why it had gone and started looking into why fuses are going. As is evidenced by the melting fuses, they don't seem to want to blow. So to me the issue is with the right hand low beam, which should blow number 16 fuse. Because they aren't working properly they just melted and lots more fuses blew. I still can't get my flashers working after changing the fuse in the engine compartment so something has happened there. I replaced 15 and 19 and have the left side side light working. I have messaged the people that sent me the fuses and asked them where they want to go with this, more as a knee jerk, I will ask the auto electrician what they think.
 

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2017 CRV Touring - Pearl White w Black Interior
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Fuse 16 is for right hand low beam, this originally went and I replaced the fuse. As there was still an issue with the low beam circuit, what should have happened, in my opinion, is it should have blown the fuse, this didn't happen, instead it blew fuse 21 which is the fuse leading to the relay for both low beams. I replaced that fuse not knowing why it had gone and started looking into why fuses are going. As is evidenced by the melting fuses, they don't seem to want to blow. So to me the issue is with the right hand low beam, which should blow number 16 fuse. Because they aren't working properly they just melted and lots more fuses blew. I still can't get my flashers working after changing the fuse in the engine compartment so something has happened there. I replaced 15 and 19 and have the left side side light working. I have messaged the people that sent me the fuses and asked them where they want to go with this, more as a knee jerk, I will ask the auto electrician what they think.
Regardless if fuse 16 was defective and refused to blow, something.. something is presenting a low resistance path to ground for that circuit, and you have to find that first, before cycling through more fuses.

Fuses do not blow with the bulb out, right? only when the bulb is installed? Or did I miss a nuance somewhere here?

Unfortunately, you need some documentation or information on the wiring diagram of the vehicle in order to be able to track it down with a resistance meter. First and foremost, I would check the resistance across both fuse slot 16 and 21 with no fuse inserted. Open circuit, they should read infinite (or high) resistance. If they do not, then you have a symptom to chase. Also check if resistance changes when you cycle the headlight switch on and off. If so, another symptom to chase, if not... probably not an issue to continue to chase.

Honestly, this sounds like a classic wiring short somewhere, and the fuses blowing or not blowing is of course just a symptom, not a cause. These can be a real pain to track down unless you have wiring documentation or comparison observations between a good CRV and your CRV. Even then, if there is a short or damaged wiring harness somewhere, it may be out of sight and difficult to find too.
 

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2009 Honda CRV 2.2 CTDiI
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I spoke to the sparky this morning and he said the same as you that it will be a short to earth, so I've booked it in. I'm buying a fuse box from ebay which I might install myself as it looks pretty much plug and play and should save me an hours labour, unless it needs programming then he can do it. The question is, does a interior fuse box from a 2011 fit a 2009. They have different engines I think.
 

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Suspect yes, there may well be variances between the 2009 / 2011 models as thats when the later models were facelifted.

(Also, for ease of reference, can you please complete your profile so we know what car you have....easier than having to ask in case we forget!)

👌
 
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Is it possible to have rubbish fuses. This started with the right side dipped beam fuse going, which I replaced, then it blew the fuse that leads to the relay for the dipped beams, now it has just destroyed pretty much all the lights that are operated from the stalk without blowing either of those two fuses. I can accept the dipped beam having an issue and blowing fuses but for it to escalate like this just makes me wonder why aren't the fuses blowing.
More than likely the fuses are not bad. It is a short circuit which is causing your issue with the head lights.
Where the short circuit is, I can not say cause I am not there to look at it. If you can then open hood and look for the burnt wires. They will need to be replaced. Do not put another fuse in until you have resolved the short circuit. Otherwise you will only cause more issues or damage to the wiring or fuse box. The proper way to troubleshoot would be to put a light in the circuit where the fuse goes. This provides a load and prevents the circuit from burning up other wires. If the bulb is bright then dead short. When you find it (either by wiggling wires or visual inspection), the light may dim.

If this is beyond your troubleshooting ability then have an auto electrician fix it. Seriously do not put another fuse in. Those look like seriously burned fuses that could have damaged the wires and possibly the fuse box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Suspect yes, there may well be variances between the 2009 / 2011 models as thats when the later models were facelifted.

(Also, for ease of reference, can you please complete your profile so we know what car you have....easier than having to ask in case we forget!)

👌
No worries I'll get onto it.

More than likely the fuses are not bad. It is a short circuit which is causing your issue with the head lights.
Where the short circuit is, I can not say cause I am not there to look at it. If you can then open hood and look for the burnt wires. They will need to be replaced. Do not put another fuse in until you have resolved the short circuit. Otherwise you will only cause more issues or damage to the wiring or fuse box. The proper way to troubleshoot would be to put a light in the circuit where the fuse goes. This provides a load and prevents the circuit from burning up other wires. If the bulb is bright then dead short. When you find it (either by wiggling wires or visual inspection), the light may dim.

If this is beyond your troubleshooting ability then have an auto electrician fix it. Seriously do not put another fuse in. Those look like seriously burned fuses that could have damaged the wires and possibly the fuse box.
I've already got a sparky to stand in. The fuse box has had it so I'm going to install one of them as long as there is no coding needed. Then I can get the sparky to look at it and find the short.
 

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Engine bay fuse box is fairly straight forward
However, the fuse box under the dash also holds the MICU
I have never replaced it nor do I know of anyone.
Don't know what the cost would be.
Please keep us updated on your progress
Would like to see it resolved for the cheapest and simplest fix??
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I've bought the fuse box but it looks like the immobiliser is in there so I will need to code my keys to it, more money :(
 

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I've bought the fuse box but it looks like the immobiliser is in there so I will need to code my keys to it, more money :(
The parts of the immobilizer are the immobilizer-keyless entry control unit located at the ignition lock cylinder the MICU and the ECM. The control unit sends a signal out to the key. The key responds with a coded signal. This signal is passed onto the MICU in the fuse box and the ECM located in the engine bay near the battery. If correct signal then power is applied to the fuel pump and injectors get their signal to function. So before spending more money, did you inspect the fuse box? Does it look damaged in anyway?

If one changes the fuse box with the immobilizer (MICU and ECM) then it will need to be reprogrammed. If it functions without changing the fuse box then???? will it be alright?????
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
The parts of the immobilizer are the immobilizer-keyless entry control unit located at the ignition lock cylinder the MICU and the ECM. The control unit sends a signal out to the key. The key responds with a coded signal. This signal is passed onto the MICU in the fuse box and the ECM located in the engine bay near the battery. If correct signal then power is applied to the fuel pump and injectors get their signal to function. So before spending more money, did you inspect the fuse box? Does it look damaged in anyway?

If one changes the fuse box with the immobilizer (MICU and ECM) then it will need to be reprogrammed. If it functions without changing the fuse box then???? will it be alright?????

Hi yes there are two fuse sockets that are melted, see here.
Product Electronic component Circuit component Automotive lighting Electronic engineering


Are you suggesting that the fuse box wouldn't be the only thing to change if I want the immobiliser to work?
 

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Are you suggesting that the fuse box wouldn't be the only thing to change if I want the immobiliser to work?
No, not certain but should only need to have the immobilizer and the ECM reprogrammed if you decide to replace the entire fuse box.

Note: Fuses are not meant to melt. They meant to blow when the current exceeds the rated amperage. Makes me suspect there is something wrong with the fuse box???
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Yep had a tinker tonight and it appears the right hand loom (if there is one separate to the left) is goosed and just melts further. I got the indicators to work, the left side was fine, the right gave a weird squawking sound, the bulbs including the green arrow got dimmer and it smelt of melting wire. It's looking mare and more like an expensive fix so I have to weigh up if it's worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
The fuse box arrived and the local stealer said they would sort the immobiliser for £114, they seemed to know what they were doing. So that will just leave what I believe to be a melted wire or two in the loom which should be traceable.
 
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