Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, my CRV is having an issue where it doesn’t start when it’s been driven and warmed up. Have to wait like 30 minutes before starting. I have tried EVERYTHING! I have replaced the distributor, starter, alternator, battery, Coolant temp sensor, engine temp sensor, ignition switch, crankshaft sensor, spark plugs and wires. Whenever I replace something that could be the problem it runs fine for about 3-4 days before it starts doing it again. Have put about $7k into the car and ready to sell but not if it’s not working properly. Any opinions would be much help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
when the engine won't fire did you check for spark? If you have spark be sure it's blue color not orange. Is the distributor an Aftermarket or OEM? Was anything done before this happened?
Spark is fine like normal, distributor is OEM. This problem developed in the winter when my head gasket was failing, replaced that and the temp sensors. Was fine up until 3 weeks ago and now it came back.
 

·
Premium Member
1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
Joined
·
1,206 Posts
Does the engine start behaving normally for any amount of time after the battery has been disconnected?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Can you hear the fuel pump turning on when you cycle the key to the run position when its not starting?
Yup I changed the fuel pump and main relay like 3 weeks ago, car was starting up fine for about 3-4 days and then the issue came back. Everytime I change a part that could be the problem, the car acts like normal for a few days before the issue comes back.
 

·
Premium Member
1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
Joined
·
1,206 Posts
Disconnect the battery to wipe your computer's memory, without doing anything else. Then start up and drive and see if it behaves normally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Have you connected a scan tool to the OBDII connector? A basic scan tool should include freeze frame, fault codes and monitor status as a bare minimum. More sophisticated scan tools include Mode 06 diagnostics.

A scan tool can be of great help. Look to see if you have an RPM signal, that can indicate if the ignition is working. Look at fuel trim percentage. If it is positive fuel is being added and negative fuel is being removed. The ignition module of the distributor is very vulnerable. Some are not aware to use a heat sink compound on them. Non OEM distributors sometimes have issues. Have you done a valve adjustment? As previously mentioned, I would suggest diagnosing the issue. The other thing you could try, the next time it won't start, don't crank the engine long. If it won't start in 3-5 seconds, wait one minute. Turn the ignition to on and press the gas pedal fully to the floor and hold it there without cranking for at least 10 seconds. With the pedal still on the floor, crank the engine over. Do not release the pedal until the engine starts. This is how the clearout mode is activated. If the engine does start, this could indicate a leaking fuel injector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Stop guessing and throwing parts at it!

Trouble shoot when in failed mode. Fuel spark compression!

May help to post where located
I have troubleshooted. Fuel system is working fine and spark is there too. All those components are new but everytime I change something the car will run fine for about 4 days before having issues again. No codes come up and have used diagnostic machine to read live data but everything shows as working when car is running. I am located in Piscataway, NJ.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Have you connected a scan tool to the OBDII connector? A basic scan tool should include freeze frame, fault codes and monitor status as a bare minimum. More sophisticated scan tools include Mode 06 diagnostics.

A scan tool can be of great help. Look to see if you have an RPM signal, that can indicate if the ignition is working. Look at fuel trim percentage. If it is positive fuel is being added and negative fuel is being removed. The ignition module of the distributor is very vulnerable. Some are not aware to use a heat sink compound on them. Non OEM distributors sometimes have issues. Have you done a valve adjustment? As previously mentioned, I would suggest diagnosing the issue. The other thing you could try, the next time it won't start, don't crank the engine long. If it won't start in 3-5 seconds, wait one minute. Turn the ignition to on and press the gas pedal fully to the floor and hold it there without cranking for at least 10 seconds. With the pedal still on the floor, crank the engine over. Do not release the pedal until the engine starts. This is how the clearout mode is activated. If the engine does start, this could indicate a leaking fuel injector.
I have a used scan tools and shows nothing. However my buddy has a Snap-On scan computer that shows you all the live data from the car and everything shows up as normal. Fuel flow is correct as well as the pressure. Have not tried that cranking method but will give it a try thanks.
 

·
Premium Member
1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
Joined
·
1,206 Posts
Fuel system is working fine and spark is there too.
This is why I need to troubleshoot in 'failed mode' as someone said.

Your engine needs five things to run:
Rotation
Compression
Air
Fuel
Spark

If the engine runs at all, it has compression. Is it cranks, it has rotation. If you can open the throttle, it has air. Therefore, when the engine stops working it is losing either spark or fuel. You need to find out which one is not there while the engine is not working.

If both of those things were working, and the engine runs under some circumstances, and you can crank the engine, the engine will always work and not have a 'failed mode.'
 

·
Registered
2000 LX 5spd awd
Joined
·
515 Posts
Have you done a voltage drop test on your grounds when it won't start? Bad grounds can cause all kinds of strange issues. Google it and watch some YouTube videos if your not sure what a voltage drop test is. I can try to find the service news honda put out about voltage drop testing some time ago when I'm at work tomorrow, if i remember. 🤦🏻‍♂️

I had a Tsx with a bad ground cable that on 1 car turned on the vsa light with no codes and the same battery ground on a different car cause a low voltage srs code to come up. Tripped us to out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,975 Posts
You have to check for spark right after it won't start. If there is spark, try to start it again and if it now runs, you still don't know if lack of spark is the problem or not. If it doesn't start, then you can basically rule out 'spark' being the problem.
When it doesn't start, pull a spark plug right away and see if it is wet or dry.
Wet means no spark. Dry means no fuel. BASICALLY!!
The ignitor in the dist will usually fail after it warms up.
As others said, don't just throw expensive parts at it.
First try to see if it is actually a spark or fuel problem.
Buffalo4
PS: If it turns out to be an ignition problem, check out this link: Part 1 -How to Test the Igniter, Ignition Coil Accord, Civic, CRV, and Odyssey
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top