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Discussion Starter #1
2014 CRV has a 2 or 3 second stumble/rough idle only after sitting for around 5 hours or more. After the few seconds of rough idle it goes into fast idle warmup and purrs as smooth as silk. Subsequent restarts, where it only sits for an hour or so it starts up normally. If it sits for a bit longer, like 3 or 4 hours it will do the stumble thing very briefly for a second or less. So basically it gets worse the longer it sits up to a max rough idle time of 3 seconds before running perfectly.

The VTC actuator has been replaced with the new design that Honda finally released 8 months ago and I have had no VTC rattle since.

Attempts to troubleshoot the issue by the mechanic at the Honda dealer include, no errors codes, checked for leaky injectors, done an idle relearn, and replaced the MAF sensor. The dealership has had the car for 5 days and has been great. They gave me a loaner because it pretty much has to sit over night to really exhibit the problem, but they seem to be running out of ideas. The CRV has 80,000 kms on it and works great otherwise.

Does anyone have any ideas? It almost seems like an oil pressure bleed down issue, but the mechanic sees no relation to dry startup... It was wondering if the cam chain tensioner may be starving for oil as I read that can be an issue on this engine.

It is worth noting that I have combed through all the issues posted in this forum and found nothing like my problem..
 

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Fuel pump could be losing its prime. Before you start it, turn the key to the run position and let the fuel pump run until you cant hear it anymore. May even want to turn the ignition back off and then back to run a second time just for good measure. Then start it and see how it does.
 

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It's a long shot, but if you think it might be because of oil starvation on start up, I would replace the oil filter with either a Wix or Napa Gold oil filter. They both have an excellent anti-drain back valve. Filters without a functioning valve will allow the engine to slowly drain oil from the engine back through the filter. This is a common problem for us with Miata's and maybe you're having the same issue. Common fix for noisy VVT actuators at start up. It's really cheap to try. You don't have to drain the oil to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Thumpenator, I am running a Mobile 1 filter and Mobil 1 synthetic 0w-20. I started using the mobile 1 filter when it still had the legacy VTC actuator design. It is the best filter I could find locally, it should be for 21 bucks, and from all reviews I have read has an excellent anti drainback valve.

I was more approaching the oil starvation as a question in that could there be a partial blockage to the cam chain tensioner oil passage that would cause a loose cam chain at startup until she reached full pressure? This is where I do my own grasping at straws...

I wonder if it may also simply be a tight valve. Even after it kicks into fast idle warmup there are some very very slight, almost undetectable misses until it has run for a minute or two. After everything heats up perhaps the valve clearance increases and she runs normal. More grasping..

Cheers
 

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I think Bdub was close but since you have eliminated that issue, I would like to suspect the fuel regulator as a possible cause. They rarely fail but since this even only happens when not driven, I'm thinking it may be the issue allowing excessive fuel to return to the tank. Another possible cause is a problem with the Mass Air Flow sensor.
Last but never least on a three year old Honda, check the battery. If its weak maybe it just doesn't have the juice it needs to start and prime the fuel until the alternator kick back some volts, amps and watts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Dealer has replaced MAF sensor, so it could be a bad fuel pressure regulator. Is there a way to test them, and where is the FPR on a 2014 CRV? Is it in the tank?
 

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I'm out of ideas. The pressure regulator may be worth checking. Maybe it is something with the valve timing. Engines start like crap when there are timing issues.
 

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I'll bet that you have a lot of crud around the butterfly leading into the throttle body. Remove the ducting from the MAF to the throttle body for easy access. You can use MAF cleaner for this, but don't spray it directly on the valve. Spray it onto a rag and wipe it clean. Stay away from where the valve pivots. After cleaning, disconnect the battery for a few minutes so that the ECU can reset and relearn.

If this doesn't fix it, I'm out of ideas. BTW, have the plugs ever been replaced? If so, make sure someone didn't use those cheap Autolite plugs.
 

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2014 CRV has a 2 or 3 second stumble/rough idle only after sitting for around 5 hours or more. After the few seconds of rough idle it goes into fast idle warmup and purrs as smooth as silk. ..
I am not sure what you mean by "stumble"? Is the engine trying to stall? Was there a noise when it does this? Where is the oil level at?

I have a 2014 EX. After the VTC actuator was replaced, I noticed the oil level must be at the top hole/mark or else the engine makes occasional rattle on cold starts. I know you said the rattle is gone.
 

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It's a new MAF? Testing it is as easy as unplugging it before that next cold start and seeing what happens.
If no different then the problem lies elsewhere
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Had an in person meeting with the technician today and I am now being told the "problem" may be normal despite him initially acknowledging it as a repeatable issue after sitting overnight, or for at least 6 hours. He actually took me out to another CRV with the same engine today and it exhibited the same cold start stumble as mine, although slightly shorter in duration than mine. Hmm..

To clarify what I mean by stumble is that it just does not go to a smooth fast idle right away, almost like leaving the choke on a bit too long on a carb engine. It kind of chugs a bit before it goes to a smooth fast idle warmup. If you start it up when it is warm or has only sat for only about 4 hours it starts perfectly and goes right into a smooth fast idle warmup.

I have always owned Honda cars and none of them have started this way..

I was told that they had replaced the MAF sensor by their receptionist , but it was in fact the MAP sensor. The mechanic also indicated that he has not done an injector or fuel pressure regulator test, but that he will tomorrow and the service manager also approved a free valve check and adjustment. They really have been great.

If it still does it when I get it back tomorrow I can try to post a link to a video of what I am talking about.

Thanks for everyone's help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I suggested a valve job, which the service manager agreed they would pay for, and the problem is resolved. Woohoo!!

Tech said all exhaust valves were tight, but still just barely in spec at around 21mm, he set all of the exhaust to 25mm. Exhaust spec is 21-25mm. Intake side only had two slightly tight ones, but he set them all to 32mm. Intake spec is 28-32mm.
 

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So, you just mean a valve clearance ADJUSTMENT?

I have performed an adjustment at about the same distance on a regular basis (50 - 60K MILES)

To many folks, a 'valve job' means removing the cylinder head and checking/replacing valves and machining the seats.
 
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