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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody,

I have a 2018 CR-V EX (with the 1.5L Turbo). With the ScanGauge plugged in, I notice that the normal operating temperature for my engine coolant stays between 80-83 degrees Celsius (176 - 181 F). I usually don't like to idle my engine for long periods of time, but on 2 occasions this week, with the outside air temperature hovering around the freezing mark (in Quebec), I was forced to keep my car on to avoid getting frozen. Roughly 10-15 minutes after idling in Park, my engine temps rose as high as 96C (204F), and it didn't show any signs of levelling off. On all my other cars, I never noticed it get up this high, relative to the normal op temps. Is this normal? I did get the "fix" done on my engine computer a few weeks back, and I don't suffer from the oil dilution issue that a lot of reporting.

The cabin air fan was at about the midway mark, and when I increased it to max, it helped somewhat by decreasing the temps by about 1 or 2 C, but that was it. Only thing that got it down was of course to drive it around.

For me, these temps don't seem normal. If I didn't have the ScanGauge, I probably wouldn't have noticed anything because the gauge on my dash only showed a minute increase in the level, and I probably wouldn't have noticed it if it wasn't for the ScanGauge.

With freezing temps outside and a hot idle, I am wondering what will happen when temps reach 30C in the summer .... (bought the car in October so haven't experienced this yet).
 

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As stated, perfectly normal. Coolant temps will elevate on any motionless vehicle, no air movement thru the radiator. I also use a ScanGauge II and have observed +/-215F in the conditions you describe. The tranny will/can run much hotter than the motor (supposedly normal as well).:jawdrop:
 

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2022 CRV EX FWD 2013 CRV EX FWD
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No need to worry. When I had my old Jeep here in South Texas while city driving mid summer my dash coolant gauge would read around 210 F.
 

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We still have a ‘98 Cherokee XJ 4.0L.......coolant temp will run well north of 210F when monitored thru the OBDII port. Most factory dash temp gauges are rigged, stay motionless for 50-60 degrees F.

The OP says actual coolant temp reached 204F.......I’d bet the factory dash temp gauge stopped moving at +/-160F........that’s the way ours is. There’s 44*F and factory gauge remains motionless.

Yes, no need to worry, that’s just the way they are.
 

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2022 CRV EX FWD 2013 CRV EX FWD
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We still have a ‘98 Cherokee XJ 4.0L.......coolant temp will run well north of 210F when monitored thru the OBDII port. Most factory dash temp gauges are rigged, stay motionless for 50-60 degrees F.

The OP says actual coolant temp reached 204F.......I’d bet the factory dash temp gauge stopped moving at +/-160F........that’s the way ours is. There’s 44*F and factory gauge remains motionless.

Yes, no need to worry, that’s just the way they are.
My Jeep was a 2001 XJ 4.0. I regret selling it everyday!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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This is why Scan guage and similar tools are such a bad idea for everyday ppl. Sorry but everyone running out and buying one then dealerships, shops and threads like this pop up everywhere with these complaints. Ok for those that tow and such who need to be able to monitor temps under severe conditions or for those to check a CEL. But STOP staring at the data stream for no reason.

Unless the dash guage rises out of normal range a fair bit there is 0 reason to be concerned with it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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My Jeep was a 2001 XJ 4.0. I regret selling it everyday!.....
We installed a Power-Trax locking rear diff in our XJ several years ago......that thing will darn near go vertical.:jawdrop: The kiddo has it up in OK now.......he’s been doing a lot of reading about a LS V8 motor swap. Sounds like a lot of fun to me.:nod:

Ooops, sorry......didn’t mean to thread hi-jack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This is why Scan guage and similar tools are such a bad idea for everyday ppl. Sorry but everyone running out and buying one then dealerships, shops and threads like this pop up everywhere with these complaints. Ok for those that tow and such who need to be able to monitor temps under severe conditions or for those to check a CEL. But STOP staring at the data stream for no reason.

Unless the dash guage rises out of normal range a fair bit there is 0 reason to be concerned with it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Agree with you that having these tools sometimes causes more stress than anything. But here comes an exception - my sister got an apple watch this fall and ended up going to ER a week later when she realized her heart rate was consistently >100 bpm. She was prescribed beta blockers to slow down her heart. Sometimes more data can save a life.

I wasn't planning on keeping my SG connected to be honest, but kept it there after the s/w update, as it obviously modified engine cooling algorithms. Hence my original question.

s/w engineers do make mistakes you know.

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Case closed for me.
 

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Wonder what the s/w update did regarding engine cooling? What mistakes do you think were made? To me, lack of data/knowledge causes more stress. Your ScanGauge provided you with data that proved the factory gauge is rigged. Bet you wouldn't have any problems selling you ScanGauge here to a forum member. I didn't see a complaint anywhere in the OP.
 

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This is why the temp gauge on the dash is set up to have a "dead" band and hold rock-steady during routine fluctuations in coolant temp. A hair over 200 is not an issue. The coolant and engine can both handle far higher.
 

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Wonder what the s/w update did regarding engine cooling? What mistakes do you think were made? To me, lack of data/knowledge causes more stress. Your ScanGauge provided you with data that proved the factory gauge is rigged. Bet you wouldn't have any problems selling you ScanGauge here to a forum member. I didn't see a complaint anywhere in the OP.
Why do you think mistakes were made? A hair over 200 is not high. I'm not sure what to make of your comment that it's "rigged". And every car I have ever owned has had a dead band on the coolant gauge; it hasn't been a simple thermometer for a long time. Precisely to keep people from worrying about stuff like this. (Some cars just have "cold" and "overheat" lights and eliminate the gauge all together now; can't say I disagree with the decision... In a modern car if everything is working correctly there's no useful info from a gauge. If there's a problem, it usually goes straight to overheat in about a minute, which is faster than most people would spot the issue on a gauge.)
 

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I am surprised nobody mentioned about the radiator fan should come on when coolant gets too hot. In this case coolant was not to hot anyway as OP did not noticed it.
 

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Why do you think mistakes were made? A hair over 200 is not high. I'm not sure what to make of your comment that it's "rigged". And every car I have ever owned has had a dead band on the coolant gauge; it hasn't been a simple thermometer for a long time. Precisely to keep people from worrying about stuff like this. (Some cars just have "cold" and "overheat" lights and eliminate the gauge all together now; can't say I disagree with the decision... In a modern car if everything is working correctly there's no useful info from a gauge. If there's a problem, it usually goes straight to overheat in about a minute, which is faster than most people would spot the issue on a gauge.)


Why do you quote me?......I didn't say mistakes were made. The OP stated mistakes can be made, I simply asked his reasoning why he thought that a mistake was made. Go back and re-read. It is "rigged".......you call it a "dead band", I call it "rigged". Either way, the factory gauge is not providing data while in the "dead band" because it was "rigged" that way. When the shop plugs in to the OBDII port do you think they are seeing "dead band" info? I could not care less about what worries or stress other people. It's a digital/data world out there.....you don't have data, you don't have anything. People pay billions of $ for data, I paid a measly $150 for a tool that I can move from car to car and provide me with a little extra data the interests me.



I am surprised nobody mentioned about the radiator fan should come on when coolant gets too hot. In this case coolant was not to hot anyway as OP did not noticed it.


Re-read post #2 and post #3. Both posts say "normal". Since the fans did not come on, the coolant was not too hot. The way I interpreted the OP was that the OP thought coolant was too hot. I'm guessing the OP does not have an understanding that TWO things MUST be FLOWING thru the radiator in order to maintain a steady(ish) normal +/-180F operating temp.......those TWO things FLOWING thru the radiator are AIR and COOLANT.



The part that puzzled me in the OP was the statement that "none of my other cars did this" or something to that affect. My question to the OP is "did your other cars have belt driven radiator fans?" Vehicles with belt driven radiator fans FLOW AIR thru the radiator the moment the motor is started.



Bring on the data. Learning something new every day is a good thing. Heck, who knows, one of these days maybe more peeps will peal the cellophane wrapper off owners manuals and discover their car has a hood release.:clap::Surrender::wave::Bow::Rockin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wonder what the s/w update did regarding engine cooling? What mistakes do you think were made? To me, lack of data/knowledge causes more stress. Your ScanGauge provided you with data that proved the factory gauge is rigged. Bet you wouldn't have any problems selling you ScanGauge here to a forum member. I didn't see a complaint anywhere in the OP.
Agree that more data will cause 'stress'. We see this today with all the tech around us. Ignorance of a potential issue might however cause more stress down the line. I've lived it. There's a balance to achieve between raw data and automation. I don't keep my eyes plastered on my SG; I have other things to pay attention to, like the road perhaps. That's where asking more experienced folks on this forum about the questions comes in - many answered my question (thank you for that) and hopefully this thread will help other people achieve the balance between data and stress when it comes to engine temp questions.

Regarding changes to the CR-V, my engine revs a lot higher in the cold after "the fix'; I suppose Honda's intent was to create more heat by keeping RPM higher while of course bypassing the radiator. This is all manipulated by software by the way . If they fix one thing, they could break another. It happens all the time in my field. Who's to say that under certain atmospheric conditions matched with other factors, like temperature, pressure, humidity, that engine cooling is not optimal? I'd rather ask a question like this than to end up with engine issues later on, especially since a third of the threads here mention engine cooling issues. Like I said, I have had other brands of vehicles and none of them reached anything close to boiling point, hence my query.

And FYI, planes have fallen from the sky due to s/w issues, this despite aviation s/w being tested a lot more rigorously than our $30k CR-Vs. That's why s/w updates exist - to fix previous issues (hopefully not serious ones).

My initial question was answered by the nice folks here. I learned a thing or two which IMHO is the whole point of a 'forum'; it is to learn and collaborate, not complain or discourage others from asking questions.
 

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I'm a no stress type of guy and don't mean to cause any........I live by "don't sweat the small stuff, it's all small stuff".

I didn't think coolant bypassing the radiator was manipulated by software either before or after "the fix". However, like I said, I like to learn something new every day and learning how s/w manipulates radiator bypass in the CRV.......well I'm all ears.

Coolant boiling point in the CRV is +/-260F......204F, not even close.

Again, your scenario as stated in your OP, is totally normal and all other cars do exactly the same given the exact same scenario.
 

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The hotter an engine can run, the more fuel efficient it can be.
Straight water boils at 212f atmospheric sea level. Of course, antifreeze raises the boiling point, as does the pressure increase above sea level thanks to the closed system environment limited by the radiator cap rating.
In short, any thing under 210f is for sure, no concern
 

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Got any idea what temp turns the CRV efans on? I’ve seen 215F so far and no efans. Several GM vehicles I’ve owned triggered efans at 230F.
 
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