Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

21 - 32 of 32 Posts

Registered
Joined
90 Posts
I don't think ours is near a critical stage, but, this '09 appears to have lived a harder life than the one I drive. I am keeping a close eye on that rear suspension though. They looked OK last year when I replaced the struts (as I had to unbolt that part from the chassis) but, rust can happen quickly once it starts.
If i could offer suggestion of POR15

Im my younger days built a number of offroad trucks - 1987 & 1988.5 Samurais, 1979 wide track cherokee with the AMC 360 and Dana 44's, 1988 Cherokee and POR15 would stop rust dead in its tracks.

Knock off all the loose stuff and paint directly on the remaining metal

As you can image vehicles from this timeline has severe rust and this saved a number of frames which were on the way out
 

Registered
Joined
1,312 Posts
If i could offer suggestion of POR15

Im my younger days built a number of offroad trucks - 1987 & 1988.5 Samurais, 1979 wide track cherokee with the AMC 360 and Dana 44's, 1988 Cherokee and POR15 would stop rust dead in its tracks.

Knock off all the loose stuff and paint directly on the remaining metal

As you can image vehicles from this timeline has severe rust and this saved a number of frames which were on the way out
That would be great for any exposed metal. And too bad I couldn't have dumped a 5-gallon bucket all over my '97 CR-V. 馃榿 I will keep that in mind!

The issue with the 3rd gen CR-V is that the rust is happening up inside the rail, so it is rusting from within. If there were a way to access inside there to clean it up and get some rust prohibiter in there, I imagine it would help.


 

Registered
Joined
90 Posts
That would be great for any exposed metal. And too bad I couldn't have dumped a 5-gallon bucket all over my '97 CR-V. 馃榿 I will keep that in mind!

The issue with the 3rd gen CR-V is that the rust is happening up inside the rail, so it is rusting from within. If there were a way to access inside there to clean it up and get some rust prohibiter in there, I imagine it would help.


Thats wild and pretty scary, makes me happy I live in Tx We may not have real seasons but I guess our cars dnt typically rust as much so that is nice
 

Registered
Joined
1,312 Posts
Thats wild and pretty scary, makes me happy I live in Tx We may not have real seasons but I guess our cars dnt typically rust as much so that is nice
It's the road salt in the winter that tears up our vehicles, and I'm thinking that with these frame rails, the saltwater gets in there and sits. That is the same thing that causes the "Honda cancer" on the rear quarter panels where the rear bumper cover attaches--saltwater gets in there, the water evaporates but the salt remains, and it sits there until it is washed out eventually over time (or it is blasted out with high-pressure water). I've seen that mainly on older Hondas. Our '09s and the Civic haven't rusted there yet, and the Accord is rusting along the top of the fender lip.
 

Registered
Joined
3 Posts
Hi. I have a 2007 Crv with 234,000 miles. I was hoping to drive it to 300,000 miles, but recently there is a rattle under the hood and my mechanic identified it as in he engine, low, near the oil pan, probably a gear. I'm really sad as I have loved this car. During the ten years I have driven it I have replaced air compressor, battery, tires and brakes of course, starter. But all in all I have been very happy with and I'm mourning its passing! Yours should go to 300,000!
 

Registered
Joined
12 Posts
Hey guys, I have purchased an '07 V (Ex model) with 180k on the odometer. A/c was replaced last may with receipts. I replaced the sway bar end links and both rear struts. It drove and "clunked" so bad before it feels like brand new V! :)

Since I've purchased some goodies:
LED Headlights
LED Parking lights (only in the front)
LED Reverse lights (550lm) [I don't know how many times people just zoom on by while reversing out of a parking spot, at least now they'll see me.]
LED MAP, Dome, Trunk Lights (6500k)
OEM All weather mats including trunk
Class 3 Tow Hitch

I can see the power steering rack a bit moist but I have just topped her off and doesn't seem to have lost much. shrug Seems to be running sound other than when I am in reverse and turning the wheel it makes noise then goes away after a full tire rotation or two. Sounds like metal grinding. I thought it was a wheel bearing but the local Brake Check said there was nothing wrong & the alignment came out great. Additionally I get some vibrations in the wheel at certain speeds, 35-40 mph typically - sometimes at hwy speeds, but I let off the gas for a second or two and it goes away. Strange. Any ideas?
 

Registered
Joined
1,312 Posts
Seems to be running sound other than when I am in reverse and turning the wheel it makes noise then goes away after a full tire rotation or two.
If yours has the all-wheel drive, I'm going to bet it's the differential. Does it happen more when you are turning and in reverse, and sound like it's coming from the rear? One of my '09s had sort of a rubbing sound from the rear when I was backing and turning into my driveway, and that was the problem. My '97 had the same issue, but it was more of a moaning sound. You'll need about 1.1 qt. of Honda Dual Pump Fluid (so you'll need to purchase two quarts). Since you don't know the complete history, it won't be a wasted effort to drain the fluid and refill it. Tip: before refilling it, make certain you can remove the top "fill" cap first, so you can be sure it comes loose.
Additionally I get some vibrations in the wheel at certain speeds, 35-40 mph typically - sometimes at hwy speeds, but I let off the gas for a second or two and it goes away.
This could be anything from tire balance, suspension issues, etc. to a bad axle or even the propeller shaft (if you have all-wheel drive). They are known to vibrate at certain speeds when the universal joints go bad (my '97 would vibrate at around 40-45 MPH), but the vibration would not go away if I lifted off the accelerator.
 

Registered
Joined
12 Posts
It is more like bearing that needs grease, it'll whistle then go away, whistle and go away. I feel like it is coming from the passenger front. I need another set of ears outside the vehicle so I can better pinpoint a location. Would there happen to be a wonderful write-up on the site for the diff fluid change? I hear its bad to change the transmission fluid. Can you confirm this?

I do have an AWD model. The tires are the same set when purchased & they have 8/32 of tread life left. I'll tackle the vibration issue when I replace the tires on all four corners. Sounds like this maybe a rabbit hole type of issue.
 

Registered
Joined
6 Posts
I can't help on the high mileage thing, I just recently got my '07 with 92k on it. But I can add a few things. The original owner had the front struts replaced at 65k. Brakes done at about 80k. I had the AC flushed and recharged. It was about a pound low, but it holds less than two pounds total, so I'd say that's not a serious leak over the life of the car so far. A 30 minute leak check showed no leak-down. Two months later it still runs ice cold. Of course, I'll keep an eye on that, since it is critical where I live. It's on its third set of tires, but I don't know if the tp sensors have ever been replaced, only that they are good right now. No issues otherwise so far, except that I checked and it did come up on the airbag recall list, so it's on my list to get that addressed soon. Otherwise, the front passenger door lock actuator needs replacing. I have it and will try to get it in this week. I got the replacement driver door armrest leather cover off eBay for about $32, and the center armrest ones for about $26 on Amazon. No other issues so far. Change all your fluids and drive it! And keep us in the loop on how it's going.


And, oh, yeah - we are going to need to see pictures!
You had your A/C flushed? I have never heard of such a thing in my life.
 

Moderator
Joined
1,987 Posts
You had your A/C flushed? I have never heard of such a thing in my life.
Me neither. Thanks for pointing that out. That must have been a misprint in my brain due to insufficient coffee at the time. Sorry. I had my A/C evacuated, pulled down, and recharged. There, that's better. I need my brain flushed. With fresh coffee.
 

Registered
Joined
5 Posts
I'm new to the forum but like all the dialogue and advice.
I had a 2001 AWD CRV LX that was basically bulletproof with the only issue being fuell injectors which was a fairly inexpensive fix drove it from Illinois to California had about a 160000 miles when I traded ..
Eventually got a 2012 AWD CRV LX.. Good car with decent mileage it had the occasional weird grinding noise when you started it up and it also had a slight vibration in 1st and 2nd gears in tranny..I had the transmission oil change twice and that vibration went away had a 150000 on that and found a 2010 with 70000 miles and traded off for that.. I drive anywhere from 40k to 50k miles a year with my sales position so that's why I am looking to possibly trade the 2010 off I found a couple of 2006 w/ low mileage 75k each..$ 7500 reasonably priced I've also found some 2010 and 2011..50k each. also reasonably priced $11k for the years I'd save some $$ if I went with the 2nd generation does anybody have an opinion on purchasing one generation over the other if I'm doing 40000 to 50000 miles a year on the highway?...thnx in advance
 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
Top