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Discussion Starter #1
The deer bent the front metal bumper mount so much that it pushed into the ac condenser thus smashing into the radiator.

Replaced w/OEM radiator and condenser, but whilst doing so, i accidentally ripped out 2 connectors from radiator harness and needed a custom connector from amazon to connect 1 of them, as there is no OEM part for this. Link to see custom part RED/BLACK WIRES- Image also below
The two connectors that I had to repair:
  • "First connector" went to radiator fan on passenger side- i had to glue connector so it wouldn't come out of connector.
  • "Second connector" (in which i think may be culprit) connects to the coolant temp sensor at bottom of radiator. See image at bottom. Btw i used OLD temp sensor from broken radiator, and inserted into the new radiator.

Would any of this cause the heat not to come on in the car? If not, any ideas?


p.s. running w/o ac coolant as it leaked out.

In this image, i assumed that the GREEN/WHITE wire connected to BLACK wire from 2nd image. So that's what i did, connected GREEN/WHITE to BLACK
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This below connector for the fan was relatively easy in my mind because there was only 1 wire, and slid right back into connector.
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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
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Would any of this cause the heat not to come on in the car?
Let's assume that the heater control valve was not damaged in the collision. This is on the firewall.


More than likely, you have not adequately purged the air from your heater core. It is the highest point in the cooling system.


Try this:

fill up radiator and overflow reservoir on a cold engine.

turn on heat control.

Idle engine for 5 minutes, then go on a short drive.

hold engine in a lower gear, run engine RPMs over 4,000 a couple times. (The coolant velocity will help purge any air)

Refill overflow.

Check the radiator (cold) and reservoir next 5 or 10 drive cycles.




Post back with results. :giggle: 馃憤
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
) connects to the coolant temp sen
Purged
Let's assume that the heater control valve was not damaged in the collision. This is on the firewall.


More than likely, you have not adequately purged the air from your heater core. It is the highest point in the cooling system.


Try this:

fill up radiator and overflow reservoir on a cold engine.

turn on heat control.

Idle engine for 5 minutes, then go on a short drive.

hold engine in a lower gear, run engine RPMs over 4,000 a couple times. (The coolant velocity will help purge any air)

Refill overflow.

Check the radiator (cold) and reservoir next 5 or 10 drive cycles.




Post back with results. :giggle: 馃憤
THANK YOU FOR THE REPLY!!

Currently i have the care up on ramps, and the front end is totally disassembled, can i somehow do this without driving the car?

And i don't know what the "Heater Core" is?? Or how one would purge it?

I did fill radiator and reservoir (more like over-filled it) as it was completely empty, whilst engine cold and let engine run for 5-8 minutes. And that is when i noticed it blowing cold air.

So you suggest simply taking it for a drive and rechecking?

EDIT, so I checked the radiator fluid and the reservoir was half empty and the radiator needed another 1/4 quart.
I'm attempting letting it run idle in the garage since the front end is still disassembled.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Let's assume that the heater control valve was not damaged in the collision. This is on the firewall.


More than likely, you have not adequately purged the air from your heater core. It is the highest point in the cooling system.


Try this:

fill up radiator and overflow reservoir on a cold engine.

turn on heat control.

Idle engine for 5 minutes, then go on a short drive.

hold engine in a lower gear, run engine RPMs over 4,000 a couple times. (The coolant velocity will help purge any air)

Refill overflow.

Check the radiator (cold) and reservoir next 5 or 10 drive cycles.




Post back with results. :giggle: 馃憤

Ok Something's not right. I refilled coolant, and since i cant drive the car i ran the engine in garage on ramps for less than five minutes (revved up up to 4k Rpms a few times) and my heat temp gauge went to high! So i shut the car off. FYI i have not checked to see if radiator fans are working.
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'07 CR-V EX-L AWD
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Likely a result of the giant air bubble in the coolant system. Finish fixing the car, then drive it and resolve the problem. One thing at a time.
 
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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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The hot temp reading confirms that you have air in the cooling system.

There are several Topics here that confirm the necessity of running a refilled engine for 5 - 10 minutes, then shutting it off. This 'heat-soaks' the thermostat housing (which is on the bottom radiator hose) and causes it to open.

I bet that the next time you checked the radiator it was low!

++++++++

The heater core (in the UK, called the Heater Matrix) is the part of the cooling system that circulates warm coolant into the interior to provide warm air on cold days.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The hot temp reading confirms that you have air in the cooling system.

There are several Topics here that confirm the necessity of running a refilled engine for 5 - 10 minutes, then shutting it off. This 'heat-soaks' the thermostat housing (which is on the bottom radiator hose) and causes it to open.

I bet that the next time you checked the radiator it was low!

++++++++

The heater core (in the UK, called the Heater Matrix) is the part of the cooling system that circulates warm coolant into the interior to provide warm air on cold days.
You guys are all correct! The radiator kept sucking more and more antifreeze and FINALLY! Blowing Hot air inside! And NOT overheating anymore.
Took 6-8 starts and 3-5 refills of more Antifreeze, i didn't yet put it all together, though i probably should have.

  • Now i have what appears to be a small (like drip every minute) antifreeze leak coming from the bottom of plastic reservoir, i don't know for sure, i am just guessing.
  • And this is probably a common noob question, but i still have yet to see the radiator fans run, regardless of how long engine runs or how much revving engine i do. Though the heat gauge doesn't rise above mid point. The weathers been 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Should i be concerned that i have yet to see fans run?
  • In the past I've added too much ac coolant to another CRV and Pilot and broke both vehicles AC systems doing so. Should i attempt to add my own coolant to the ac system? I cannot afford to pay someone for this, i lost my job due to Covid 19 layoffs.
Thanks Again All
 

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Discussion Starter #8
efills of more Antifreeze, i did
The hot temp reading confirms that you have air in the cooling system.

There are several Topics here that confirm the necessity of running a refilled engine for 5 - 10 minutes, then shutting it off. This 'heat-soaks' the thermostat housing (which is on the bottom radiator hose) and causes it to open.

I bet that the next time you checked the radiator it was low!

++++++++

The heater core (in the UK, called the Heater Matrix) is the part of the cooling system that circulates warm coolant into the interior to provide warm air on cold days.

Just got VERY bad news. Starting from cold start just now, getting white puffy cloudy smoke billowing out from the exhaust. Like a smokestack. My brother said its probably the head gasket.
Wondering if i should just pay the $500 deductible and have insurance fix it.
 

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if its 45 degrees out it will condensate. after 5 minutes, is it still blowing white? Sounds like you have not the best of luck when repairing stuff. I'm not sure the insurance will cover a head gasket for something you may have caused. it is called refrigerant, not coolant. unplug the compressor until the system is charged. the gauge on the dash is a dummy gauge, plug in a scanner that has real time data and see what your coolant temp is. my guess is your connector at the radiator is not working, therefore nothing is telling the fans to turn on. the passenger side fan is the condenser fan. you performed an incorrect coolant refill and purge process, that hopefully didn't blow a head gasket. is your leak from a hose not seating correctly? I just went through this and it took 7 or 8 drive cycles before my coolant levels stabilized. The heat soak method worked well for the initial purging, however, I had my scanner plugged in the whole time watching temps so I knew when to shut if off when t-stat opened.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
if its 45 degrees out it will condensate. after 5 minutes, is it still blowing white? Sounds like you have not the best of luck when repairing stuff. I'm not sure the insurance will cover a head gasket for something you may have caused. it is called refrigerant, not coolant. unplug the compressor until the system is charged. the gauge on the dash is a dummy gauge, plug in a scanner that has real time data and see what your coolant temp is. my guess is your connector at the radiator is not working, therefore nothing is telling the fans to turn on. the passenger side fan is the condenser fan. you performed an incorrect coolant refill and purge process, that hopefully didn't blow a head gasket. is your leak from a hose not seating correctly? I just went through this and it took 7 or 8 drive cycles before my coolant levels stabilized. The heat soak method worked well for the initial purging, however, I had my scanner plugged in the whole time watching temps so I knew when to shut if off when t-stat opened.
Thanks for the Reply Br1. I have ran the engine twice both for like 4 minutes after smoke came, and last time (2nd smoke start) it was blowing white fluffy smoke like a concert smoke machine.
And no, i am not messing with the Air conditioning. I will leave that to experts.
it is called refrigerant, not coolant
My apologies, if i wrote the incorrect word in. Refrigerant is for AC and Coolant/Antifreeze is for the radiator.
But i stink at auto repair so doesn't really matter, i never claimed to be an expert. :D That's kend of why I'm here? My Non-expertise? Yeah? ;)
Pardon my malapropisms, i haven't had the pleasure to train in the fine art of the Deturpant Simia

On this
if its 45 degrees out it will condensate.
It was almost 70 today. It was 100% smoke filling the garage.

The strange thing is that I've been running this car on and off for close to two weeks with no smoke, we just had a baby this past week so been slowly working on it
The CRV's been sitting on Ramps at a steep angle for over a week. Yet soon after (3 starts after) my cabin heat finally came on (Today?), i got smoke coming out the tailpipe.. wth?
Strange, Random. Yes the car overheated after i hit the deer 2 wks ago, but hasn't since then, except once quickly while purging 1- 2 days ago,, and i turned engine off quickly when it was no more than 3/4 the way to Red(overheating) And the heat temp gauge in dash is still working, going up and down as it should. Assuming it is isnt broken.

Is this whole thread a moot point since i probably blew the engine?
So should/would everyone concur that the head gasket is in fact blown? And/Or Antifreeze is simply now in the engine?


P.s the oil was terribly low and black, I put a quart in to be safe after the smoke. Also, the Antifreeze hasnt gone down at all, its still full, since earlier this morning-last evening..
This video was taken this afternoon when it really hadn't started getting too cold. Maybe 60-65?
Its just crazy, all of a sudden after a cold start, and never having smoke, POOF, all this coming out.

 

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where are you located? how long have you owned this crv? you hit the deer and then it overheated. You had it towed to your house, tore it apart and put new radiator back in, it overheated while purging. The needle on the dash is basically a "go or no go" gauge. if the temps are within the spec range, the needle reads ok. if they go higher than that range, it pegs out to hot. no way of knowing exactly how hot it got, either time. how many miles are on it? when the car is running, do you see any bubbles coming up in the radiator neck (cap off)? if you let this run for 5 minutes or so, does it continue smoking? i can see through that smoke.....it still looks like condensation to me. you can get exhaust gas tester for the coolant to see if it is getting into the coolant. congrats on the baby.....you may decide to spend more time in the garage and learn that grease monkey art. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I'm In Charlotte, NC I've owned this CR-V EX for 5 years. Got it with 35k miles, now has 60k. Initially when i first started adding Antifreeze, i saw bubbles only coming up through the Resevior but that stopped maybe 3/4 the way through. Antifreeze is still full to the brim.
I can report I have a pretty bad transmission fluid leak due to not replacing the washer.
Honestly I haven't started it since yesterday I'm afraid I'm going to blow it up.
Where does one get an exhaust gas tester?
I've called 3 auto parts places and none carry or heard of an Exhaust gas detector.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here's an update:
And thanks for the link.

I went out and got a compression test kit loaner from Autozone, so hopefully tomorrow i can get to that.

But i did get the check engine codes when check engine light came on today,
The bad-ish news is the codes i got. Or at least i think.
To preface this, i do want to say the first time i read the codes it showed that cylinders 1,2,3, were misfiring.
Then i turned off/on the car 4 more times, and all 4 times its showing only cylinder 3 misfiring.

And yes the sweet smoke is still blowing out the exhaust...I want to give up so bad but i just cant.
Any thoughts on these error codes etc?



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